Bonaire trip report (the report may be dry but the trip wasn't)

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Harro10

Contributor
Messages
615
Reaction score
228
Location
Hailey, Idaho
# of dives
200 - 499
I landed on Bonaire 11/10 and got to the hotel after the dive shop closed so no diving that day. I stayed at the Hamlet Oasis, which is just north of Capt. Don’s Habitat. My package included three two tank boat dives and unlimited shore diving. I checked in at the on site dive shop, Photo Tour Divers, at 8:30 AM to fill out all the paperwork and get my Marine Park tag. It had been raining harder then usual even for the rainy season with strong winds blowing from the east instead on the usual westerly direction so the Bonaire’s famous easy shore diving in the calm waters of the common east side sites was not very calm. The wind stayed like this until the last dive day of my trip. The visibility was reportedly down from the rain and unusual wind and wave action. I picked up two tanks and headed out. Water temps were 82 – 84 degrees for the entire trip.

11/11/04
First dive: Shore dive - max depth – 59’ ; bottom time – 51 min ; viz – 45’
I did a shore dive from the “Cliff” site. Nice reef with good amount of small life. Was impressed with one particular trumpet fish. I was knocked around a bit by the waves while exiting on the rocky/coral shore line, pulled a leg muscle and lost a lost a fin strap socket on one fin (had a replacement). Learned a lot from my poor exit and improved my technique

I drove up to “Oil Slick” to check out that site. It is a concrete platform with a ladder about 5’ down to the ocean. The waves were crashing over the platform and there were several divers just standing there staring. I decided to rethink that site. I drove down to the “Hooker” and the “Angel” site but there was so much standing water between the road and the parking for the site I could not access them. I had rented a small “Yaris” hatchback – a mistake. I saw one pickup truck stuck in water up to the passenger compartment. I headed back to the “Cliff” site, which was some what protected from the wind and waves by the island of “Klein Bonaire”

Second dive: Shore dive - max depth 43’ ; bottom time 52 min ; viz – 40’
Site: Cliff; Same as above but the visibility was a bit down. I came across the Capt. Don’s memorial to past divers with the underwater Bonaire and dive flags, a nice touch.

My leg was sore and I called it a day for diving.

11/12/04

First Dive: Boat dove – max depth 60’ ; bottom time 61 min ; viz – 50’
Site: “Klein Bonaire” Rockpile; All the dive boats were trying for the protected sites and we could not get a mooring so we did a drift dive. A very nice dive. A lot of staghorn coral, two turtles, a moray, file fish and the usual marine suspects. Saw two “card” (?) fish doing the mating dance, one head butting the other in the stomach and then the two going into an upward swimming spiral around each other.

Second dive: Boat dive – max depth 74’ : bottom time 63 min ; viz 50 ‘
Site: “Klein Bonaire” Bonaventure; 3 turtles, dogfish, flounders. Good coral, saw some hurricane damage.

11/13/04
The wind was still from the east so I decided to dive the west side (wild side) of the island. Myself and three other divers went with a dive master from the shop.

First dive: Shore dive – max depth 42’ ; bottom time 82 min ; viz 70’
Site: Cai; Great dive, the best dive of the trip, entered in the channel from the bay to the ocean and the visibility was even excellent there. We were heading toward a school of 40 to 50 large tarpon when we saw a spotted eagle ray, then two more, then a group of three swimming in unison. This was off the sand just before the wall drop-off. On the wall we saw two scorpion fish, morays, lobsters and others. We saw several more spotted eagle rays but they may have been some of the same ones we saw earlier. Many juveniles in the channel to the mangrove area.

The dive master cancelled the second dive after a storm blew in and conditions all around deteriorated. The storm blew over later so I grabbed a tank from the shop.

Second dive: Shore dive – max depth 62’ ; bottom time 38 min ; viz 50’
Site: Oil Slick; Good wall at about 45’, excellent fan to barrel to tube other types of coral and sponges. Saw two juvenile morays and large amount of small fish. My leg was starting to hurt and cramp so I called it a dive.

11/14/04
Windy and rainy
First dive: Boat dive – max depth 67’ ; bottom time 55 min ; viz 40’
Site: “Klein Bonaire” Joanne’s Sunchi; good dive, one eagle ray, two lizard fish, small moray.

Second dive: Boat dive – max depth 52’ ; bottom time 57 min ; viz 40’
Site: Carl’s reef, Large green moray, good sized (for Bonaire) tiger grouper, two juvenile Barracuda. Saw hurricane damage, in areas it looked like a cement truck drove down the wall.

11/15/04
First dive: Boat dive – max depth 71’ ; bottom time 61 min ; viz 50’
Site: “Klein Bonaire” Forest; not much life in this area but nice assortment of corals and sponges

Second dive: Boat dive, Drift dive; - max depth 59’ ; bottom time 63 min ; viz 50’
Site: Jerry’s reef; nice wall with excellent array of corals. Two turtles, large tiger moray, hamlet fish, tarpon, schools of small life.

11/16/04
Rainy and windy
First dive: Shore, Wreck – max depth 85’ ; bottom time 30 min ; viz 40’
Cargo ship lying on port side, large cargo hold open. Not much growth on the wreck. A large Barracuda off the wreck. Dive boats occupied all three moorings. By far the most divers that I have seen under water at one site in Bonaire.

Second dive: Shore, max depth 45; bottom dime 44 min ; viz 55’
Site: Karpata; Nice wall with “angles”, and Elkhorn coral leading to wall from shore. Saw a large anchor with about a 5’ shaft buried in the wall (was told afterward that there is another one in the area). This was my second favorite dive in Bonaire.


I would like to have done more diving but I was conservative because of my sore leg and the weather. There was rain every day but the worst of it started on my last dive day (11/16) and continued steadily into the next day and dropped over 8 inches with a great deal of flooding. The main road north of town was completely impassible and at times I questioned if I was going to make to the airport using the detours but it turned out ok.

Two restaurants that I would recommend are Casablanca for steaks (the rib eye was excellent) south of town and La Petit Bistro north of town.

I did not have any problem with theft but I left the car unlocked with nothing in it but an old tee shirt at the dive sites. I did hear that there is now even a problem with spare tanks being stolen from cars at the sites. The tanks cannot be fenced on the island but they are being transported to South America in bulk and sold. As I said I did not have a problem and no other diver I spoke to mentioned having one.

All in all a good enjoyable trip
 
Sounds as if it went well despite the weather. I am heading out there in April for the first time. As luck would have it, have got two sets of friends going out for a week each that run one after the other so will probably be there for two weeks. Staying at Buddys - do you know of it? I thought you might have been used to the dodgy beach exits if you dive up here :wink:
 
Where I stayed was not far from Buddy's and other divers spoke very well of it. I haven't done many shore dives in our area. The dozen or so that (not counting Dutch Springs with a ramp entry) I have done around here have been off mostly sandy or pebbled sites with better footing and they were a few years ago. I have become a warm water diver and have not sunk myself north of North Carolina in four years. My mistake was one of simple technique where I underestimated the surge toward shore and did not take my fins off soon enough in deep enough water.
Don't get the wrong impression about Bonaire shore diving from my post. Everyone told me that the conditions while I was there were extremely unusual and that the shore diving in Bonaire is some of the best around.
And again I still had a great time and some fantastic diving.
 
Great report. Nice to have such detail. And a special note to the doomsayers of Bonaire: Take that!

Bonaire is a great destination! You had a great opportunity to dive the "other" side- consider yourself blessed!
 
Ah, just got back on 10/30. What a terriffic trip! Even with rainy season with currents running where there normally aren't any, surf and surge on the entrance/exits, I'd still go back in a heartbeat!
 
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