Trip Report Bonaire March 2024–Dead reefs

[uncfnp]

I've been diving on Bonaire for a week now and this is my first time here. So far mainly in the north. It's really devastating how damaged the reefs are. I can't yet confirm that some people here can report healthy corals. 1000 Steps today felt like 95% of it was dead. I am still surprised that there are still so many fish. Karpata was a little better, as there were several soft corals. At the beginning of the year it was even worse in the south of Mexico on the border with Belize, where there weren't even any fish to be found. Cozumel was thriving compared to Bonaire. Nevertheless, I meet many people here who rave about the reefs. Either they don't know any better, have never been diving anywhere else or are afraid of a collapse in tourism.

The national park has been quarantined and diving is prohibited until further notice.

I will follow your advice and explore the south from tomorrow. Unfortunately, I have already come to the conclusion that I no longer want to plan a diving vacation in the Caribbean and will only head towards the Indo-Pacific.

If conditions are still good don’t just go south but to some of the most southern sites. Atlantis, Vista Blue, Sweet Dreams, Red Beryl. And if you are comfortable with it, Red Slave (head to left if current allows). But be warned alot of other divers are doing this too. I have never seen so many divers at these sites. And if a cruise ship or two are in port, travel between sites can test anyone’s patience.

 

[mbs]

Also, it will still look wonderful to new divers.

Agreed!!! We have a newly certified diver joining us this year. I totally expect ear to ear grins when he surfaces.

 

[staggsSevin]

If the winds permit go to red slave, one of my favorites. Typically if you pull up and there are several cars there....good chance you can go.

 

[Charred]

Is the stony coral disease still active there? In my experience at other islands, it hits fast and hard wiping out those corals in months. We were there last May and ~ half the sites were already orange or yellow and had prevalent disease. I am returning in May this year and will be shocked they if still running colors and this same disease is running rampant at those same sites. I expect all those corals are gone. Remember only a small subset of corals are actually impact by the disease.

Have any sites gone from Orange back to Green or is this a one way process?

 

[DiveProKoko]

We were in Bonaire in August 2023 (a couple of months before the OP), and while there were signs/damage from SCTLD there, we did not get that "all is lost" feeling about it AT ALL. Go have fun, enjoy your trip, and take it for what it is. A temporary issue that will correct itself over time and IMHO should not "ruin" your trip. .

 

[Chrisew]

We were in Bonaire in August 2023 (a couple of months before the OP), and while there were signs/damage from SCTLD there, we did not get that "all is lost" feeling about it AT ALL. Go have fun, enjoy your trip, and take it for what it is. A temporary issue that will correct itself over time and IMHO should not "ruin" your trip. .

Please tell me the source of your optimism, as research does not know exactly what triggers this phenomenon, which has only been occurring for 10 years, nor does it know effective treatment options, and the reefs will take decades if not centuries to regenerate and probably no one writing here will live to see it.

And to all those who found the reefs in an acceptable condition a few months ago: SCTLD kills corals from 60% to 100% in just a few weeks to months. There is no need to get lost in pessimism here or cry about a ruined dive trip, but to call things as they are.

 

[Soloist]

Been to Hilma Hooker yet?

I did a late afternoon solo dive to the Hooker from The Lake yesterday in hopes of seeing an eagle ray and saw absolutely nothing. Not even a tarpon(chik). There were plenty of angry sargent majors at the prop though and the residual sand cloud from the day's activities. I'll take this opportunity to post some octopus and turtle pics.

 

[woodcarver]

Please tell me the source of your optimism, as research does not know exactly what triggers this phenomenon, which has only been occurring for 10 years, nor does it know effective treatment options, and the reefs will take decades if not centuries to regenerate and probably no one writing here will live to see it.

And to all those who found the reefs in an acceptable condition a few months ago: SCTLD kills corals from 60% to 100% in just a few weeks to months. There is no need to get lost in pessimism here or cry about a ruined dive trip, but to call things as they are.

The optimism is driven by the reality that nature is extraordinarily resilient. Don't even have to spend much time looking at all the "sky is falling" events and how quickly they disappeared from the news to recognize that truth (the GBR is gonna die, for instance). The fact we didn't know about SCTLD more than 10 years ago does not mean it wasn't occurring; we just hadn't given it a name yet. Personally, I fear an attempt to find "effective treatment options"; when has any government done that well?
The oceans and the reefs they hold were here eons before man, and will be here long after we aren't. Enjoy the ever changing nature of Nature during your blip of time on this world. It is an amazing experience.

 

[tarponchik]

I did a late afternoon solo dive to the Hooker from The Lake yesterday in hopes of seeing an eagle ray and saw absolutely nothing. Not even a tarpon(chik). There were plenty of angry sargent majors at the prop though and the residual sand cloud from the day's activities. I'll take this opportunity to post some octopus and turtle pics.

View attachment 834106View attachment 834107View attachment 834108

That's weird. Every time we went to dive at HH we saw a circle of horse-eye jacks at the sandy flats nearby.

 

[Soloist]

That's weird. Every time we went to dive at HH we saw a circle of horse-eye jacks at the sandy flats nearby.

Ahhh, I should have been more specific with my post. I observed numerous schools of fish, eels and other marine life, but not necessarily at the wreck. Here's a pic from The Lake.