Trip Report Bonaire: Den Laman and Dive Friends, August 17-31. 2022

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scubadada

Diver
Staff member
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
19,553
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Location
Philadelphia and Boynton Beach
# of dives
1000 - 2499
My wife and I made our ninth trip to Bonaire and, like the last five visits, stayed at Den Laman and dived with Dive Friends.

Reservations: We made all of our reservations online, Sunwise Realty for Den Laman, Dive Friends, AB Car Rental, and American Airlines. It all worked out flawlessly.

Travel: Our flights to and from Bonaire worked out perfectly. We had one stop in Miami. On the way back, my passport was identified at Global Entry for additional baggage screening, no reason was given. Our checked bags were gathered up by a handler and we proceeded to the checkpoint. Nobody knew or could explain the reason for the alert. All our bags, checked and carryon were x-rayed and we were on our way. Fortunately, we were able to recheck our bags, and make it through security in time to make our flight. I always dread returning through Miami, this did nothing to allay my fears.

There was a van at the Bonaire airport, waiting to take us to AB Car to pick up our truck. Our first truck had a couple of problems. At pick up, the truck was parked, back in, to a wall. The AB employee put our bags in the bed. When we got to Den Laman, we discovered that the tailgate would not open. In addition, it took several minutes to extricate my wife from her seatbelt, which would not release. I was starting to think that I would have to cut her out. We exchanged the truck the next morning. This turned out to be the only flaw in a perfect trip.

Travel sure has changed since out last visit in October/November of 2021. No pre-travel Covid test, no Bonaire Public Health Declaration, no antigen test before return to the US. My wife and I have been vaccinated since early 2021 and have been boosted twice. We wore masks on the planes, we were in a minority.

We paid our Bonaire Visitor Entry online before traveling and had our QR codes for scanning, just before immigration. For us, this was a breeze, many had to go to the kiosk to pay for and/or obtain their QR code. We also obtained our STINAPA park tag online, prior to traveling.

Accommodations: We contacted Sunwise while we were picking up our truck and Cecile met us at Den Laman to let us in. We stayed in Yellowtail Snapper this time, a second floor, one bedroom, oceanfront, next door to our favorite, Parrotfish. They are mirror images of each other, Parrotfish just has a less palm tree obstructed ocean view. Both have well equipped, full kitchens, large living/dining rooms, and bathrooms with shower. The large balcony has a beautiful view of the ocean and Klein Bonaire, a perfect place to view the gorgeous sunsets.

Our daughter and boyfriend were able to join us for a week and stayed in island view studio, Black Durgeon. I had never been in any of the studios, it was quite nice with a good size kitchen, sitting area, bed and bath.

We were concerned about the large resort, just south of Den Laman, Chogogo, which was getting ready to open during our last visit. Interestingly, we did not see many people or activity there during our stay. We didn’t hear any noise from their either. Their scuba operation, Scuba Do, is not yet open, but, apparently will be soon. They do not have a pier, I don’t know if they have a permit for one. The old Sunset Waters had one at that site. The Chogogo “beach” is behind a low retaining wall and there is a walkway between it and the shore. We did not dive Front Porch to assess for any damage. So far, not as bad as I feared. The public access to Bari Reef is still located between Den Laman and Chogogo.

Meals: We usually prepare nearly all our meals. We still made many of our meals and did much of our shopping at the convenient, Zhung Kong, but we also ate out with our daughter and her boyfriend. The food truck out on the circle, Pita Madre, was quite good, with a very friendly and talkative owner/cook. Dinners at Breeze & Bites at Den Laman and Eddy’s at Sand Dollar were excellent. Middle Eastern take out from Doner Station, across the street, was delicious, as was the ice cream from Luciano’s, a couple of doors down. Our daughter reported that lunch from Panino, in the old Between Two Buns site, was very good. We had a tasty lunch from Exito Express, a couple doors down from Panino. The only real disappointment was Rum Runners at Captain Don’s. The fish was overcooked, dry, and tough. It would have been better to stick with the pizza. The best dinner was at It Rains Fishes, absolutely perfect, as was the Luciano’ ice cream brownie desert. Groceries and eating out on Bonaire are very expensive.

Dive Operation: Dive Friends Sand Dollar/Den Laman is located between the two resorts. Divers staying at either resort have access to the gear storage room and to the pier, for easy access to Bari Reef. The pier has gotten new planking, benches, and table since our last visit in 2021. The rinse tubs are now smaller, to save water?

The Dive Friends boats pick up at the pier. You no longer have to analyze tanks and have them ready before boarding. Tanks, air or nitrox, are already on board based on your reservations. Dive Friends has a new boat, Tiki Diver. It is a 42 foot catamaran with two 300 HP Suzuki outboards. It is very fast and smooth. One drawback is that they take a maximum of 14 divers. With 2 groups, that works fine, with one guide, it is too crowded.

Our daughter’s boyfriend was certified 15 years ago and had not dived since. We got a glimpse of a side of Dive Friends we had not seen before, training and rental equipment. He did a refresher course on the first morning while the rest of us went diving. It was a couple of hours of academics, followed by a nice skill review and dive on Bari Reef. He did well and his diving rapidly improved over the week. He needed a complete set of rental gear. Everything was from Scubapro, a MK2 1st stage, two R195 2nd stages, a Level BD, Jet Sport fins, and a 3 mm shorty wetsuit. Everything worked beautifully.

Just a couple of weeks before our trip, Stoney Coral Tissue Loss Disease was presumptively identified at Karpata. La Dania’s Leap and Karpata remained closed during our visit ad boats were not using the northern sites inaccessible from shore. Rinse tanks at all the tank pick up locations were open for all to use and contained some kind of disinfectant. The rinse tubs on the Bari pier were on used after diving that site. Just before leaving Bonaire, there was some controversy as to whether SCTLD has been accurately identified. I have seen no follow up on this topic. (edit: see posts 9 and 10)

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Diving: We had very good weather on this trip, mostly sunny and warm, sometimes a bit to warm. I can’t imagine doing land-based activities. There was some wind and a little bit of rain. Water temperatures were 83-85 degrees. Visibility was good, but not stellar, something like 40-80 ft. Current was generally mild but we had several late afternoon dives at Bari with a stiff southern current, making the dive north strenuous and then flying back. Dive Friends tanks had good fills, average 3013 psi (2778-3274). Nitrox ran 32-33 % the entire two weeks. Due to having visitors and showing them around, I only did 38 dives this trip, but got in nearly 46 hours of dive time.

The theme for this trip was frogfish. We saw 8 frogfish, yes, 8 different frogfish, on this trip. We saw 5 of the frogfish on Bari Reef, a white frogfish on Munk’s Haven off Klein, and 2 yellow frogfish at Mi Dushi, off Klein. We found the first yellow frogfish at Bari on our second dive of the trip at a site we were alerted to by a friend who had recently visited Bonaire. Ultimately we found 3 yellow frogfish at or near this site, two small and one large. We also ended up finding two more frogfish near the start of Bari Reef, a small yellow one and a small pink one. These two were sometimes seen together, sometimes apart, they moved around frequently within a relatively small area.

We also saw two seahorses, a yellow one at Joanne’s Sunchi off Klein and a black one at Bari, not far from the small yellow and the small pink frogfish. On several dives, we were able to spot all 5 frogfish and the seahorse while diving Bari!

All the usual reef denizens were represented. We saw many Green Turtles, Spotted, Goldentail, Green, and Chain Morays, Tarpon, small Tiger Groupers, Slender Filefish, juvenile French Angels, Trunkfish, and Spotted Drums, Reef Squid, octopi, Yellowhead Jawfish… Sharptail Eels were out with their hunting companions. Rivers of Creole Wrasse and large schools of Brown Chromis and Blue Tang were beautiful. The hard and soft corals were generally in very good condition with very little red algae present on this visit.

The diving in Bonaire was excellent and nothing beats being able to dive with your family. We are already scheming on our 10th visit.
 
Thanks so much for this review! We will be there the end of January, so far a group of 4, me being the repeat visitor. I am very much looking forward to it, and hoping for some great sightings, as well.
The only other time I was there was with a large group staying at Capt. Don’s. Rum Runners was very hit or miss, so I am only planning on going to Capt. Don’s if someone is up for a night dive on their house reefs.
Fantastic photos, by the way!!

Erik
 
Great write up! I have to admit that I am feeling a little bitter; I didn't see a single frogfish when I was there in Aug. Glad that you saw several, plus captured some wonderful shots.
 
Great write up! I have to admit that I am feeling a little bitter; I didn't see a single frogfish when I was there in Aug. Glad that you saw several, plus captured some wonderful shots.
This was easily the most frogfish we have ever seen, and 5 of them were on Bari Reef, along with the black seahorse. I think the big yellow one and one of the smaller yellow ones might be the same ones we saw on Bari Reef last Oct/Nov
 
Thanks, dada, for the good report and frogfish-laden pictures. According to a new issue of Bonaire Reporter,
“Dive sites reopened—STINAPA has reopened Karpata and La Dania’s Leap. It has determined that the disease observed on the coral at the site is a particularly aggressive form of white plague, a disease that has been present on our reefs for years. In other words, it is not the dreaded and super-infectious stony coral tissue loss disease (SCT- LD), which is a death warrant for coral.
Since the threat is still under investigation, STINAPA reminds users not to contact corals in any way and re- quires all users to follow the recommended decontamination protocols.”

There’s also an article about the Chogogo beach fracas which will interest you as a Den Laman regular. We spent two weeks at Den Laman in June and really liked it; we dove Front Porch several times and it seemed like usual, but we didn’t go close to shore.
 
Hi, thanks @rmorgan

I wrote my review a few weeks ago but had not downloaded my photos until today. I forgot to update the review. I had read about SCTLD and heard from Dive Friends that their boats are going north again Boat dive package in Bonaire

Here is a photo of Chogogo's "beach", the retaining wall, and the walkway. The second photo is their scuba op, Scuba Do, they were to open "soon". They do not have a pier, not sure if they have a permit for one. I would like to think they will be held responsible for the fine and the building requirements. We did not dive Front Porch this visit.

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