Boltsnap breakaways

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I have a better idea.

Lets find something simple and lets complicate it.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
 
Prove it... or shut up :wink:

No you shuddup! :D

---------- Post added ----------

The OP and thread is about Hogarth systems and SPGs and regulators. I don't need you reply to me about SM.

For manifolds doubles I agree with that. Because the only time you'd have it clipped off is when you're on a stage or on land. But for independent twins (ie, sidemount), you are sometimes not breathing from the long hose, and you may have to donate it from clipped-off position.

What the heck, everyone else is arguing about nothing, I might as well join the nonsense. :)
 
Thanks guys, I am now unsubscribing. Jeez.
 
-- announced that my equipment configuration has a number of physical limitations, which simply do not exist--

All equipment configurations have limitations. If this was not the case there would only be one configuration. But hey, you know everything.
 
This thread has devolved beyond silly. I am waiting for the Monty Python guys to start singing about the Bright Side of Life...



Just always remember the last laugh is on you!​
 
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Bye, bye.
 
I was taught in my Fundies class many years ago to use breakaway connectors on fixed objects and cuttable connectors on loose objects. I understand that it's no longer taught this way, but I've never found a compelling reason to switch from that method.

Fixed objects - primary reg, SPG, etc. Considered "fixed" because even the boltsnap connection breaks, you can't lose the item because they're "fixed" to your kit via the hose, etc. These items are secured using an O-ring.

Loose objects - backup lights, etc. Considered "loose" because the only thing connecting them to your kit is the boltsnap. If the connection breaks, this item can be lost. These items are secured using cave line.

I prefer that the fixed objects have the breakable connections, because in the event they snag (on a bench or something getting up) the connection will break, or if I snag them on something underwater, I can break them with a hard enough tug and don't have to potentially cut blindly near a hose.

I always carry a spare double ender with me, either on a d-ring or in a pocket, which is the underwater equivalent of baling wire. If the bolt snap connection on my SPG breaks, I could just use the double ender to secure the SPG. It's also come in useful for a variety of other things as well.

This is how I was taught as well...in addition to a spare double ender or two, I also carry 3 cable-tie-wraps in my wetnotes...the ultimate underwater duct tape...if the women don't find you handsome, at least they'll find you handy!
 
Personally, I think 'cut-away' is sufficient mitigation of risk - provided that the diver has suitable cutting devices, intelligently located for immediate use.

You are correct,but I guess every situation needs to be assessed. The assumption would be if you can get to it. I had an spg that got wedge in a rock crevice,and to this day don't know how a well streamline spg found its way there,but there was no way that a cutting device would have gotten in there to free it. I am very thankful I used an o-ring because a couple hard tugs,and I was free.

I think one basic issue is what size and thickness o-ring people are using to cause problems. If people are using a basic yoke o-ring,with one end tied to the bolt snap,and the other to the hose,then this is very highly prone to inopportune failures. There are o-ring that can be found at plumbing stores that are long enough that the bolt snap can be threaded through it by double backing over it,with the hose passing in the middle. Keeps the bolt snap in place so it isn't sliding,doesn't fail with normal usage,but will fail with a directed intentional effort. Like all o-ring,they need to be replaced occasionally because they will degrade over time.

---------- Post added March 17th, 2013 at 07:01 AM ----------

I have a better idea.

Lets find something simple and lets complicate it.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

...or instead of talking it to death,go out and test it,and see if it really works and suits your needs.
 
I use a thin strip of "2 sided Velcro" wrapped around a D ring and the bolt snap loop. In the 3 years that I have been doing this, it has not come loose, and can be "broken away (?) using a knife, shears, or by unwrapping it from the D ring.
As with all gear, it gets checked before each dive.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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