Best value focus light?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Focus lights on the camera are helpful to identify you to others on night dives. I tell people I'm the guy with two or three lights on... They are almost never going to be aimed at what you are shooting.

I've never missed auto off. Just turn the light down...even with it on, just raise the shutter speed. The amount of light out out by your focus light is nothing at all compared to your strobe which consumes power on the order of perhaps 100 watts per second while your focus light is more likely measured in watts per hour. Raise the shutter speed which won't affect the exposure of your flash and the amount of light from your focus lamp reaching the sensor is almost nothing.

Lastly I've had no problem on night dives with the photo 800 but that's diving in shallow water. I leave the can light at home because the wide area lighting helps me see more than the narrow can light beam. For deep ocean dives I might prefer having more reach with the can light though! I've found the red has an effect on eels and octopus as well as some fish but it isn't a requirement.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
The focus light doesn't show on pictures in daytime generally but at night if you put it high you need to go over 1/1000 not to have it in and with some set ups you can't do that. I think the aim light on the z240 to be the best in this instances and turn the focus light off as I have plenty of shots where I couldn't tell they were take at om night because the focus light was being used as dive light
 
Focus lights on the camera are helpful to identify you to others on night dives. I tell people I'm the guy with two or three lights on... They are almost never going to be aimed at what you are shooting.

I've never missed auto off. Just turn the light down...even with it on, just raise the shutter speed. The amount of light out out by your focus light is nothing at all compared to your strobe which consumes power on the order of perhaps 100 watts per second while your focus light is more likely measured in watts per hour. Raise the shutter speed which won't affect the exposure of your flash and the amount of light from your focus lamp reaching the sensor is almost nothing.

Lastly I've had no problem on night dives with the photo 800 but that's diving in shallow water. I leave the can light at home because the wide area lighting helps me see more than the narrow can light beam. For deep ocean dives I might prefer having more reach with the can light though! I've found the red has an effect on eels and octopus as well as some fish but it isn't a requirement.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

In my case, Canon s120 with Ikelite AF35 strobe I'm forced to use Av mode and it sets shutter speed to 1/60 with the flash on. So I do see any dive light in the photo.
 
To the OP, I notice you live in the Seattle area. The Fantasea Nano is useless for local conditions ... better I suppose in clearer water, but it's simply not bright enough for here.

The Big Blue that James advertised above is a good value. You can pick one up locally at Optical Oceans, unless you decide to take James up on his offer to sell his. My dive buddy uses one, and she's quite happy with it.

I use the LaLuz, also mentioned previously. It's a killer focus light for the price. I've had mine around the world twice now, and with three different power settings find it works well in pretty much all conditions.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
Anyone know the best focus light with AFO?

The one integrated in the inon d2000/z240
Big blue if you need more lower seems interesting. As discussed the problem only arises if you pump it up. 200/300 lumens light on 60 degrees don't create such a big issue
 

Back
Top Bottom