OP
JDelage
Contributor
Good to know, thanks!
Best value focus light?
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I've noticed that the auto off of my Fantasea nano really only works when you have a preflash fire. If you don't have a preflash (i.e. use manual) it gets turned off during the actual flash and will occasionally show up in the picture. Other than that, it's been fine for going on about 3 or 4 years now.
If you use TTL (you can use this in manual mode with the RX100), the light should turn off with the pre-flash. That was my experience with the light I mentioned earlier. No problems at all.
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OP
JDelage
Contributor
I can vouch for Interceptor121's deep knowledge. He's saved me hundreds of $.
One question on the Z-240 spotting lights. Can they be used in a WA shot, when the strobes are pointing away from the subject?
One question on the Z-240 spotting lights. Can they be used in a WA shot, when the strobes are pointing away from the subject?
In theory yes but practically not
Strobes have more than 90 degrees coverage so if you pointed them directly at the subject you could end up hitting you dome with edge lighting
Generally a focus light is not needed in wide angle the camera should ways detect enough contrast ton work properly especially with some kind of dome and small aperture where pretty much everything is in focus
---------- Post added February 21st, 2014 at 09:11 AM ----------
To add on the discussion I have a Sola spot/flood on the camera cold shoe (soon to change onto M10 ball) this can be used as focus light if needed for close up work like portraits or as night dive light spot light
One thing that I find particularly annoying is to have to carry another light for a night dive as the flood of a focus light is basically useless and if put high tells the fish divers are coming
The best focus light is actually the Sola Dive 800, if you miss the red lights (which in my entire experience of shooting were useful only with mandarin fish) you can put a filter on
OP
JDelage
Contributor
But the Sola Dive 800 doesn't have that auto-off feature, does it?
No, and the Sola Photo 800 doesn't either.
None of the sola have this feature
---------- Post added February 21st, 2014 at 04:55 PM ----------
Just to reiterate you only need to auto off when you are shooting in low visibility and need to blast the light at full power creating backscatter. If that does not apply there is no need for that. Usually with a decent camera you only need a decent amount of light to make the contrast detection work 150-200 lumens are usually plentiful for macro. For situations of poor viz you are looking at 500 lumens+. Most importantly you don't need to fill the frame with the light and a 500 lumens focus light with a 60 degree beam is actually very bright on the surface it hits
---------- Post added February 21st, 2014 at 04:55 PM ----------
Just to reiterate you only need to auto off when you are shooting in low visibility and need to blast the light at full power creating backscatter. If that does not apply there is no need for that. Usually with a decent camera you only need a decent amount of light to make the contrast detection work 150-200 lumens are usually plentiful for macro. For situations of poor viz you are looking at 500 lumens+. Most importantly you don't need to fill the frame with the light and a 500 lumens focus light with a 60 degree beam is actually very bright on the surface it hits
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