Tips for avoiding getting rolled by the surf. Several ideas:
First sign up for a 3Rs class (Rocks Rips & Reefs
http://www.glacd.org/ ) which teaches shore diving techniques. Offered in several places during the year for a cost of, free, but a donation of $5.00 is requested. Their schedule for Los Angeles County is .
August 9th, Deer Creek(Thomas Bros. Maps Page 625/B4)
September 13th Reef Point(Thomas Bros. Maps Page 920/B7)
October 11th Broad Beach, (Thomas Bros. Maps Page 626/G7)
Second:
www.sandeaters.org is a great website. They dive every week and will be glad to show you the ropes. Not a club, just a website that schedules a dive each week.
Third, waves come in sets of usually 3 but can be up to 5 followed by a lull of anywhere from a few seconds to quite a little while. Spend some quality time watching the waves for about 10 minutes before you suit up. Let me stress that you need to observe for a while as you may see a set of small waves and the next set may have the roughe wave of 7 feet in it. So watch for 10 minutes or so.
The 2nd wave of the set is often the largest. If the waves are large, or the lull between sets very short, consider diving another day. What is too big? Well if you ask yourself the question should I dive or shouldnt I, then answer is not to dive and live to dive another day.
Your comfort level will grow with your experience. Do not let some else talk you into diving beyond your comfort zone. SCUBA diving does have its risk and shore diving adds to them the entry and exit. Divers have suffered serious consequences from entering surf that they under estimated.
Once you have made your decision to dive, suit up and then get ready to dive. Put your gear on (I recommend you carry your fins in your hand until you are out past the breaking waves but this varies with conditions and experience), go to the waters edge or no more than ankle deep, mask on and regulator in your mouth firmly gripped between your teeth. If you get knocked down, you don't want to be hunting for your regulator and air. (generally I clinch my teeth on the regulator and breath around it, so if I need it, I just have to close my lips around it). Waves may hold you under water for a time so be prepared for it. Watch the ocean and time the waves. As I mentioned before a set is usually 3-5 waves with a lull between sets. When the last wave in the set hits MOVE OUT SMARTLY! Quickly enter the water and get beyond where the waves are breaking and then put on your fins. The surf zone is dangerous. Some shuffle in with fins on, I don't usually as it slows you down and keeps you in the surf zone longer.
If you get caught by a wave you can do one of the following: 1.) duck under it (you are wearing scuba gear) especially if the wave is going to be more that waist high. 2.) If the wave is small enough brace yourself and turn sideways with feet well apart. Be prepared for the backflow. The water running off the beach after the wave often is the bigger problem if you are just at the waters edge. You will also know a big wave is coming if suddenly the waist deep water is now ankle deep (waive coming in sucked it out).
To exit, do the same thing in reverse and remember to watch the ocean behind you so you know when a big wave is coming. Do not remove your mask and regulator until you are on dry land.
Last but not least find a dive buddy with sore diving experience.
If you need a dive buddy, let me know as I am always happy to go diving. I have 75 dives in the past 2 years and all but about 10 or so of those beach diving. I try to dive each week where in Malibu, Palos Verde or Laguna Beach and sometimes San Diego.
I hope that helps. Beach diving is fun and inexpensive and allows you to get out more often.