Bauer ACD auto-drain rebuild

[TravisD]

So, what's involved in rebuilding/maintaining these Bauer auto condensate drains? I don't (yet) have a problem per-se, but last time I ran it I did once catch it not closing after the timer should have - one stage (I forget which one) seemed to be hanging open slightly. A couple of taps with a screwdriver handle closed it and it seems to have been fine since.

My use of this unit is sporadic - looking at my logs I've put 30 hours on it in the past year. It's a 2001 ik12.14/BP13 package that I acquired from my LDS when they closed. It has 33xx hours on it. I do have the full manual but know those can be deceiving so before I start tearing into anything blindly, figured I'd ask.

Is this a "if you open it you MUST replace parts" situation, or can I disassemble, clean, reassemble, perhaps with some o-rings. Yes, the vinyl tubing is ancient and crusty - I have replacement to go in at some point but since it's just drain lines I haven't been in a hurry

 

[happy-diver]

Yeah some orings

https://scubaengineer.com/pictures/compressors/bauer/ik100_120_ii_english.pdf

And resist unscrewing any of the steel fittings from the aluminium

 

[TravisD]

Good point about the dissimilar metals - I'll have to look and see what my options are there.

I'm seeing the rebuilt kits for like $130US and would prefer not to have to throw a bunch of parts at something if it's not really needed...

 

[oldairdude]

Travis,
There is nothing that MUST be replaced, if you open and inspect, lube, etc. in fact, it’s an annual suggestion in your manual. I have repair kits that can replace all wearing parts that are inside of the three units. I can also provide, if you need it, the breakdown of your specific build. Here are some Pro Tips from my experiences:
1. Note that the two ACD units on your right are numbered 64008 and 64009 on the body. The 64008 is your final (right side) unit. The 64009 is your 3rd stage drain mounted in the middle. while they both use the same wearing parts, the blocks differ somewhat in that the final unit has a spring on top of piston and utilizes a restricted orifice fitting on the bottom. Do not swap these units positions.
2. I suggest you remove the block from the manifold, with the two Allen bolts in the middle, then work on the block with a table vise. Remove only the top and bottom caps from the middle. Do not yet, remove the steel tube compression fittings from the aluminum bodies, as these are sometimes drama with dissimilar metals. 50/50. If done annually, fine. However if its been years, it may not be worth it unless you have to change it for some reason. If you ever do, always use Anti-Seize afterward and avoid future drama.
3. Make sure the restricted fitting is clear, you do not need to remove it. It is a very small hole and can often plug up. If you can pass some air thru it, you are fine.
4. The most wearing item are the Delrin seats. They are the same in both blocks. Unless someone beat you to it, they are also reversable with a new surface seal on the other side. Hence why a suggest once a year so you can use both sides before ever replacing. If tip of piston is chipped or eroded, you will need to replace it. If it is not leaking now, the pistons are most likely in good shape, however, they should be re-lubed with silicone grease in the bores and U-cup seal.
5. The spring on top of the piston on 64008, is usually a mess with corrosion of the aluminum block it sits in. Clean it up and as long as the corrosion has not reached the groove of the O-ring, you should be good. Again, why you should do it annually.
6. The solenoid valve is the 2nd stage drain, electrically driven. Check to see that it drains as soon as unit shuts down. Re-lubing helps here as well.
Have fun and if you need better details or drawings, let me know!

 

[TravisD]

Thanks Porter! That's the kind of insight I was hoping to come away with. I kind of doubt that these were regularly serviced, so hoping it's not too late. Once I"m sure I'm not going to be pumping for a little while I'll pull them out and get to disassembling.