Bali / N. Sulawesi trip - how's this look?

[nwflyboy]

OK, with the advice of many kind folks here, plans for my upcoming trip to Bali & N. Sulawesi are coming together. Here's what I'm currently leaning towards - opinions?

We have 14 full days total (not counting the days we fly in and out).
Our goals are: dive a lot, enjoy the topside attractions a bit, relax a bit.
We are not much into muck (no offense, mucksters); we like clear water, reefs and walls, lots of critters, easy diving, drift diving, comfy resorts with a little luxury. We're planning to split the time between Bali and the Manado area.

• Day 0: Fly in (arrive Denpasar 7 pm); overnight Ubud(?) I'm open to suggestions for a better place to recover from the long flight, keeping in mind that we'll be jet-lagged and mostly just ready to unwind and get a good, restful night's sleep.
• Day 1: Morning in Ubud, drive to Menjangen in the afternoon; overnight Mimpi Menjangen resort.
• Day 2: Diving @ Menjangen, overnight Mimpi Menjangen resort.
• Day 3: Diving @ Menjangen, overnight Mimpi Menjangen resort.
• Day 4: Diving @ Menjangen in morning, drive to Tulamben, overnight Mimpi Tulamben resort.
• Day 5: Diving @ Tulamben, overnight Mimpi Tulamben resort.
• Day 6: Diving @ Tulamben in morning, drive to/overnight at (Sanur? Padang Bay? Candi Dasa?) - not sure on best choice as a base for Nusa Penida dives; suggestions?
• Day 7: Dive Nusa Penida - mola mola?
• Day 8: Dive Nusa Penida - mola mola?
• Day 9: Offgassing, topside sightseeing.
• Day 10: Fly Denasar to Manado, arrive Bunaken early afternoon. Overnight Bunaken area (not sure exactly where yet).
• Day 11: Diving @ Bunaken, overnight Bunaken.
• Day 12: Diving @ Bunaken, overnight Bunaken.
• Day 13: Diving @ Bunaken, overnight Bunaken.
• Day 14: Offgassing, topside sightseeing.
• Day 15: Fly Manado - Denpasar, fly Denpasar - Bangkok. Whew!

Does this seem like a reasonable pace?
Any suggestions for an overnight place for 2-3 nights that's a good base for Nusa Penida dives?

Any other feedback/suggestions welcome. Thanks!!

 

[Bali-Freak]

The Bali part of your plan looks good. You can depart either Padang Bai or Sanur for Nusa Penida. Because you will have spent quite a few days beforehand in remote areas with not many facilities (Menjangan & Tulamben), you may prefer to base yourself in Sanur where you there is a wider range of shops and resturants than Padang Bai.

Simon

 

[nwflyboy]

Thanks. Another question about the best place to base for the Nusa Penida dives...

My plan for the Nusa Penida dives is to allocate 2 days. The goal is to see the mola molas. As with any attempt to meet a critter in the wild, there's no guarantee - even though we are going at what I think is the best time to see them (last week of August). If we have good luck with the first day and get our fill of mola mola viewing, we would probably skip the nusa penida dive the second day, and just spend the day sightseeing and relaxing topside. If the molas are a no-show on the first diving day, we would make a second attempt the second day - I figure we'll have 4 dives over 2 days at the peak time, so there's a very good chance we'll see them. Then again, if we get plenty of molas on the first day, we would rather do more topisde stuff the second day. Plus, I assume that we would have some time in the afternoon/early evening after the dives for topside sightseeing.

Given that additional consideration, where is a good place to base -- someplace that works well both for jumping off to the the Nusa Penida dives, but also has good topside attractions?

FWIW, we are not into a big party scene, discos, crowds, etc. (i.e. Kuta, from what I've read) - not that there's anything wrong with that. We're more interested in seeing a bit of traditional Bali - temples, culture, scenery, etc. (although we do appreciate a nice beach, just like everyone else). Having a good choice of restaurants and accommodations to choose from close-by is also a plus.

Sanur? Padangbai? Candi Dasa? Somplace else?

Thanks!!

 

[Leejnd]

David, I haven't yet been to Bali yet, but as you know, I've been doing a massive amount of research myself. So that means that any advice I give you is based on my research, not first-hand experience. But I will take a shot at passing on some things that I've learned, that may be able to help you.

First, about the Mola Mola -- yes, you will definitely be there in season (as will I). While you have a good shot at seeing them at any time between Aug. and Oct., there are certain dates in which you are likely to see more of them, based on various factors (such as the phases of the moon, as I understand it). The dates for 2007 are:

* August 9th - August 17th
* August 24th - September 1st
* September 7th - September 15th
* September 23rd - October 1st
* October 7th - October 15th
* October 22nd - October 30th

Since you're going to be there from Aug. 19 - 29, if I read your itinerary right, your days in Nusa Penida will be Aug. 15-16, right? If so, you're right in there, so that's a good thing. I think that means it's highly likely that you will see them. That being said, if you do see them the first day, I think you'd be gypping yourself if you only do one dive day at Nusa Penida. Given what you say you like to see, I think you will find MORE of it at Nusa Penida than Menjangan and Tulamben. You will see more of the big stuff (sharks, rays etc.) at Nusa Penida. I would suggest that in addition to a Mola Mola trip, you book a trip out to Manta Point to see the manta rays. Have you ever seen a manta ray? I have, in the Marquesas Islands, and I have to say it was probably the most transcendent and magical experience I've EVER had underwater. They are just majestic, angelic creatures, and I would not pass up a chance to see them.

One caveat - I don't know your diving level, but I understand that Manta Point can be a bit more challenging than other dive sites, due to currents and the colder water. Also, it can be iffy whether or not your boat will be able to get to the site, depending on weather and conditions. But if you book a Manta Point trip and your boat can't go there, they will visit some other Nusa Penida dive site that will probably be equally enjoyable.

As for where to stay for the Nusa Penida dives, it sounds to me as if Sanur may be a good choice. Your dive shop will come pick you up wherever you are, and Sanur is a reasonably short ride. The only downside I see in Sanur is that, while the resorts are beautiful and elegant and there are lots of dining options, it'll offer you far less "local culture" than some other areas, as the area is pretty much devoted to these big resorts, and some people consider it kind of sterile. Padang Bai and Candi Dasa will offer more "local culture", and are actually closer to the dive boats for Nusa Penida, but they are very small communities with only a few lodging choices and restaurants. However, they are supposed to be charming and scenic, and you can venture into some other villages from there for even more culture.

You might want to consider Seminyak. It's further from the dive boats than Sanur, but it's more upscale than the Kuta/Legian area, offering great lodging choices and lots of restaurants and shopping, in an area that is also in the heart of a residential community (where lots of American and British expats live, as I've read). Again, your dive shop will pick you up wherever you are staying, so it's just a matter of how early you want to wake up.

A few other comments: you might want to reconsider spending only one morning in Ubud. We're actually going to spend six nights there, as I understand it's where you'll get to experience the most culture of Bali. Looking at your itinerary, my suggestion would be to drop one day of diving in Menjangan and spend it in Ubud.

I hope this helps!

 

[LekicINC]

Just curious, why did you decide to do the majority in Bali rather than split it equally or the other way around?

 

[nwflyboy]

Thanks again LeeAnne.

First, about the Mola Mola -- yes, you will definitely be there in season (as will I). While you have a good shot at seeing them at any time between Aug. and Oct., there are certain dates in which you are likely to see more of them, based on various factors...
* August 24th - September 1st

Actually, I've got the mola mola dives penciled in for Aug. 26-27, which I think should hit the timing just about perfectly.

...if you do see them the first day, I think you'd be gypping yourself if you only do one dive day at Nusa Penida. Given what you say you like to see, I think you will find MORE of it at Nusa Penida than Menjangan and Tulamben. You will see more of the big stuff (sharks, rays etc.) at Nusa Penida. I would suggest that in addition to a Mola Mola trip, you book a trip out to Manta Point to see the manta rays. Have you ever seen a manta ray? I have, in the Marquesas Islands, and I have to say it was probably the most transcendent and magical experience I've EVER had underwater. They are just majestic, angelic creatures, and I would not pass up a chance to see them.

Yep, I have had a very close encounter with a huge manta while coming back from a dive in southern Thailand on my last trip to SE Asia...(pardon me while I digress...)

Side note: I was on a dive boat coming back from Hin Muang (sp) off Ko Lanta. The boat captain thought (incorrectly) that he had seen a whale shark, so we all grabbed snorkel gear and hit the water. Turns out is wasn't a whale shark, 'twas a manta - a very large manta. It played with us for a few minutes, feeding, doing that incredible somersault thing, and then started to swim away. I took off along with it. I must have been the strongest swimmer in the group (or the craziest), since I was able to keep up with it and everyone else dropped off. The manta was cruising along about 2 or 3 feet below the surface; I was swimming as fast as I could to keep up, directly above it. It was watching me - I could see it's eye turn towards and focus on me. We kept that up for a few minutes, cruising along together (seemed like an eternity), making eye contact every few seconds. It was utterly surreal. Swimming along with it, at one point, I reached out and moved my hand closer to it - and it brought up one of it's "wings" and sort of smacked my hand away! That certainly surprised me - I stopped swimming and turned around to see how far I had gone from the boat (another surprise - the boat looked shockingly small and far away). I looked back down for the manta and caught one last glimpse as it dove down deep and was gone. Shaking a little bit, I turned around and started swimming back towards the boat. What an experience!!​

So yes, we've had the pleasure of swimming with mantas; of course I'd enjoy seeing them again. Sharks don't necessarily have a tremendous appeal (don't know why; I'm not scared of 'em). But, as I'm sure you know, with limited time and too much to see and do, one has to make choices (ain't that a cryin' shame... ).

One caveat - I don't know your diving level, but I understand that Manta Point can be a bit more challenging than other dive sites, due to currents and the colder water. Also, it can be iffy whether or not your boat will be able to get to the site, depending on weather and conditions. But if you book a Manta Point trip and your boat can't go there, they will visit some other Nusa Penida dive site that will probably be equally enjoyable.

We've done some pretty heavy currents before (not always a lot of fun); I should be OK with the colder water, although my wife gets cold more easily. I think it makes most sense for us to play it by ear for the 2nd day there. We will have had a lot of diving in the previous week (mind you, I ain't complaining, just trying to be realistic) and we may need a bit more topside time. If we don't dive the 2nd day, that would give us more time to explore and sightsee.

As for where to stay for the Nusa Penida dives, it sounds to me as if Sanur may be a good choice. Your dive shop will come pick you up wherever you are, and Sanur is a reasonably short ride. The only downside I see in Sanur is that, while the resorts are beautiful and elegant and there are lots of dining options, it'll offer you far less "local culture" than some other areas, as the area is pretty much devoted to these big resorts, and some people consider it kind of sterile. Padang Bai and Candi Dasa will offer more "local culture", and are actually closer to the dive boats for Nusa Penida, but they are very small communities with only a few lodging choices and restaurants. However, they are supposed to be charming and scenic, and you can venture into some other villages from there for even more culture.

That's good info. I'll have to dig into the books for more details on this.

You might want to consider Seminyak. It's further from the dive boats than Sanur, but it's more upscale than the Kuta/Legian area, offering great lodging choices and lots of restaurants and shopping, in an area that is also in the heart of a residential community (where lots of American and British expats live, as I've read). Again, your dive shop will pick you up wherever you are staying, so it's just a matter of how early you want to wake up.

Thanks, I'll look into that.

A few other comments: you might want to reconsider spending only one morning in Ubud. We're actually going to spend six nights there, as I understand it's where you'll get to experience the most culture of Bali. Looking at your itinerary, my suggestion would be to drop one day of diving in Menjangan and spend it in Ubud.

Ah, there are those tough choices again. The current plan only has us in Menjangan for 3 days, and I'd hate to cut back further there. If we skip the 2nd day of diving Nusa Penida, we could use that day in Ubud...Hmmm.....

I hope this helps!

Very much so - thanks again!

 

[Wisnu]

LeeAnne observation is pretty accurate, but let me add more choices so will be more difficult for you to make decission -
Other places can be considered are :
- Nusa Dua - 5* stars luxury hotels, very steriles; great spas
- Benoa - close to Nusa dua, water sport activities, more luxury than Sanur but less than Nusadua.
- Jimbaran - very close to airpoort, nice big resorts, beachside seafood restaurant in the night.

Everybody has their own favorites - my wife she like Nusa Dua, I prefer Sanur and my daughter love Hard Rock Cafe hotel Kuta - what can I say ...

 

[nwflyboy]

Just curious, why did you decide to do the majority in Bali rather than split it equally or the other way around?

Originally, I had split the time 50/50 between Bali and North Sulawesi. I was going to try and go to both sides of North Sulawesi - Manado and Lembeh in that week. But that seemed a bit too hurried (need a day for off-gassing, too), so I chose the Manado side (Bunaken area) and decided to skip Lembeh this time. We're not muck fans, so that seemed the better option. The Bali part of the trip also seemed a bit too hurried to get to and enjoy the 3 different locations I wanted to go to...so I stole some time from Sulawesi in favor of Bali. I know many divers would go the other way.

This won't be our only trip to Indonesia - no way you can see even a tiny fraction of it. We'll work on other parts next time.

 

[AlanWald]

You might as well go straight to Bunaken Island (I assume you are staying there) from the airport. Manado city is hot and humid and crowded and not much to see (though the people are darling) , the islands are so much more pleasant plus you could get in a dusk dive and see the mating Mandarin Fish which are easily found (by the guides) in front of the main village. While no critter sighting is ever guaranteed, this is as close to 100% as there is.

Generally your dive operation will pick you up at the airport if you make arrangements and take you straight to their boat. Most dive ops have boats that go to Manado every day to bring staff and divers back and forth and to do shopping for food, water etc. There is also the public ferry which goes to the main village every afternoon as well as private boats that can hired or maybe your dive op can arrange passage on neighboring dive ops boat.

I see no reason to spend the night in Manado. People do occasionally when they arrive too late at night for a boat crossing or have a very early morning flight

And for you pre-flight day in Manado area, many people like to go to the National Park (closer to Bitung, where Lembeh straits is). Your dive op can arrange a car and a homestay (families with extra rooms to rent out, just at the park border) and a local guide to take you into the jungle at dusk and at dawn to see the wildlife (birds and the tarsier etc)

Don't forget your domestic and international airport departure taxes. They are different amounts at different airports and are not included in your ticket and must be paid in Rupiah cash just after check in at a counter. In the Manado airport, after check in turn around and near the stairs that take you to the departure lounge is a small counter, you can't miss it.

Ask upon arrival how much so you have up to date info. I don't know if they still have a domestic and what it is, but as of April 2007 the International departure tax from Manado was 75,000 rupiah which is US$8.

Upon arrival in Indonesia (unless you have a visa or are from a visa exempt country like Malaysia) They will ask for US$25 in US cash (preferably crisp and new bills - trust me, it makes everyone happier) for your 30 day Visa on Arrival (US, Canada, most Europeans, and recently including the Dutch and a few other countries qualify, see gov't web site if you not in this group). There is a shorter visa for a bit less money (like for a week for less, but nothing in between).

Those wanting to stay for more 30 days should ask at their home country's Indonesian Consulate (there is one in Los Angeles) or Embassy if a 60 day visa is available in advance from them There are rumors that a 60 day Visa on arrival (VOA) will happen someday soon (soon my be a long time coming though).

 

[nwflyboy]

Thanks for the info, Alan.

I'm still working on the North Sulawesi details, but (from what I can tell from half-way around the world), Manado doesn't sound like it has so many charms as to warrant spending much time there.

I'm considering the Siladan Resort on Silidan Island (within the Bunaken marine park) - I haven't nailed down the details yet but it sounds quite nice. It also sounds quite expensive. Actually, they don't post prices on their website, so I'm just guessing about that - perhaps a case of "if you have to ask the price you can't afford it"... I guess we'll see, it could be stunningly expensive. I have email out to them asking for a price quote.

In any case, if that resort doesn't work out, wherever we end up, I'd want them to pick us up at the airport upon arrival, as I don't see any reason to wile away a chunk of a day in Manado. If the flight info I have is anything like the actual schedule (even if the flight is a few hours late), we should be to our hotel by mid/late afternoon, with plenty of time for a quick dive or at least some snorkeling before it gets dark.

I'm figuring on one day after diving for topside activities and offgassing. That's pretty much required, so I'll figure out exactly how we'll spend that day once I get all of the more pressing details settled.

Thanks again.