Question Backup lights

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Ale C.

Registered
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
31
Reaction score
3
Location
EMEA
# of dives
None - Not Certified
Hi there, greeting everyone. Any thoughts between Razor backup light 1200 v2 and Halcyon's scout?

Cheers,
Ale
 
I do believe the General consensus is you don't want different ouput levels/ other "bell and whistles" on a backup - due to reliability concerns.
 
Hi there, greeting everyone. Any thoughts between Razor backup light 1200 v2 and Halcyon's scout?

Cheers,
Ale
Like me you're evaluating all options as a non certified diver. My first thoughts would be... is the button at the rear going to be a problem when you attach a bolt snap? It's rather expensive to find out the hard way.
 
My first thoughts would be... is the button at the rear going to be a problem when you attach a bolt snap?

Not really.

If you are a shaved ape like me, twist lights are more likely to be flooded, so I like button lights. Rear buttons like the Dive Rite CX1 don't need the fancy locks that side buttons do.

You pull the light out of the snoopy loop on your harness, press the button, and then unclip from your D ring. Generally you leave a back up light on, so turning it off isn't really that big of a deal.

Of course it might be a little harder with an 18650 sized light, vs the 26650 of the CX1.

Between the two options I would probably select the Razor since I prefer buttons, as being rechargeable you don't mind using it. But right now I've been evaluating new back up lights due to the CX1 being discontinued. Been considering the Dive Rite CX2, Orcatorch DC710, and the DGX 1000-6. Right now the DGX 1000-6 is in the lead. Of course my priorities might be different being a cave diver as I am looking for a narrow beam and longer runtime at moderate output (1000ish lumens for 2+ hrs).
 
Unusual methodology. Never heard that before.

Manatee is a cave diver.
In the caves there are no other light than what you bring inside.
Backup light comes on if the primary light fails - thus that backup light will be used until one is out of the cave - where the dive is finished.
Same applies inside a wreck, light will be on until dive is over/ one does deco stops in open water and have "all of the time in the world" to fiddle with the light.

Hence - turning off the light is not a consideration.
 
Not really.

If you are a shaved ape like me, twist lights are more likely to be flooded, so I like button lights. Rear buttons like the Dive Rite CX1 don't need the fancy locks that side buttons do.
I had several twist lights that worked flawlessly for years, was happy and cherished them.

Then came the first night dive with my freshly certified kids: I took for granted that they know which way to twist the light's head. On the same dive also wife- experienced instructor with hundreds of night dives managed to flood my favorite light too. Bad night for my beloved light collection, lost 75% in a single dive.

I was wrong, and I had to buy new lights. With buttons. No problemos with buttons. Kids are happy, wife is happy. Got a buttoned light for myself, just in case.
 
Hi there, greeting everyone. Any thoughts between Razor backup light 1200 v2 and Halcyon's scout?

Cheers,
Ale

For a true backup light, I would choose the Dive Gear Express DGX 700.

Twist on/off for maximum reliability (just don't unscrew it in the water - it's really not that hard). As much or more light output as those other two, I think. And uses a 21700 battery, so 50% more capacity than the Razor light you are looking at. It claims 700 lumens, but I'll bet you a dollar it's brighter than that Razor light.

This is video I shot comparing the DGX700 and Orcatorch D710 on High. The D710 claims 1700 lumens and I think the DGX 700 was brighter.


For a "primary cordless" (because some people call any cordless light a "backup"), the DGX 1000-6. Up to 2000 lumens in a super tight, bright beam. Also with a 21700 battery. And, constant output! I will stay the same brightness from when you turn it on all the way until it gets to something like the last 10% of battery.

I think all the other lights mentioned do not have constant output.

I generally prefer twist lights because push button lights come on by accident too easily. Even when they have a "lock". In the water, it can be pointed behind you and you're running down the battery in your backup and don't even realize it. Out of the water, accidentally turning on can start a fire in your bag (depending on the light).

I've been using DGX 600 and DGX 700 lights for about 10 years now. I have never accidentally unscrewed one to the point of flooding. I turn them off with a solid full 1/2 turn, to make sure they are OFF. When I turn them on, if I accidentally turn it the wrong way - which I have done before - if it turns a bit more than 1/2 a turn, then I know I'm turning the wrong way and correct myself. As I said, it's not that hard.

On the other hand, I've had a few different push button lights and they ALL have turned on by accident at one time or another - even when locked. The only exception has been my UWLD LD-40 canister light. It has not turned on by accident WHEN I remember to put the plastic collar in place that covers the push button.

This is video I shot of the DGX700, DGX 1000-6, and a BigBlue VTL9000P Max, showing how much brighter the 1000-6 is.

 
This is video I shot comparing the DGX700 and Orcatorch D710 on High. The D710 claims 1700 lumens and I think the DGX 700 was brighter.
Thanks for the videos. The latter does look brighter to me. Often I find figures brightness/power level confusing, and not necessarily as expected as it claims.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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