Goz, the people on the liveaboard were great. However, this is an account of what happened on land:
First of all, both Pearce & I have been in Developing Nations (aka 3rd World Countries) and Egypt left a very negative impression with both of us:
· Getting in was a bit of a hassle, but nothing tragic. About 2 x-rays to go through. (Hurghada is a small airport that obviously doesnt have the resources to deal with the tourists they cater to and want so badly.) Getting OUT was another matter (more later).
· The town is filthy & nothing seemed finished. Yes, I have been in poor places before, but poor doesnt necessarily equal dirty/squalid. There was garbage ALL OVER.
· Armed guards everywhere. On every corner is at least one man armed with a machine gun, in full bullet-proof vest and Kevlar helmet. -Several corners had trucks with 6 or more of these fellows in them. Apparently these are Tourist Police that are there for [our] protection.
· Women are ignored or treated like chattel. As modern as this country professes to be, if youre a woman, youre worth less than a goat. (More on this later.) I guess a blonde woman in shorts with a tattoo is even worse.
· Accosted on every street by hawkers. Again, been through this before in other places, and its ignorable until you re-read previous point.
· Getting OUT was nasty. Again, there is this small, under-developed airport that is trying to process 5 or 6 flights worth of people. What a mess! You go through no less that THREE x-ray stations to get to the Departure Lounge.
At the first, they pulled Pearce over & made him open up all the u/w camera stuff. (Yes, hes been through this before umpteen times, not the least of which was Gatwick on the way from UK to Egypt, but not like THIS!)
This is how the interrogation went: guard gruffly asks Pearce You mafia or tourist? Pearce with very puzzled look on face answers tourist. Guard picks up strobe, growls this bomb?! Pearce: no, strobe for camera. Guard picks up 16mm lens, this bomb?! Pearce: no, camera lens. This happens about three or four more times until the guard seems satisfied that nothing is a bomb.
Next x-ray point I put through my knapsack & the guard pulls it off the belt saying you have swiss army knife?! You Mafia or tourist. However, he is addressing PEARCE, ignoring me when I say: tourist, and yes, it is a swiss army knife. [Please note I had brought this knife to the attention of the airline when we boarded the flight in Gatwick. I opened it up & showed it to them & they said it was small enough to put in my knapsack/carry-on.] I remove it from the bag & hand it to him. He starts opening it up. What this?! I answer corkscrew, but hes not looking at me, rather at Pearce. You mafia or tourist?! Tourist. He opens up the little 2 blade, makes a cut-throat gesture across his neck with it & exclaims you cut throat of captain [presumably airplane pilot] with this! You mafia or tourist?!
At this point Im saying Im a tourist & just KEEP the knife, ok?! But hes ignoring me & repeating the cut-throat routine. Pearce says were tourists. What do I have to do with the knife? They seemed to be saying he has to check it along with the baggage. I kept saying just KEEP IT! but the next thing I know, Pearce & two armed guards are leaving the lounge to check it in the baggage???? Now Im starting to get shaky because the adrenaline is just pumping through my veins. An eternity later Pearce comes back into the lounge, having checked the knife. Im practically in tears. Im so happy to see him I throw my arms around him & hold him for 5 minutes. !!!!!!
· People who took bus tours to the Valley of the Kings complained of dirty, decrepit busses, ones that broke down, and being rushed through their tours. Apparently, they gather the different buses up into a caravan that is escorted to & from their destination by convoy of Tourist Police.
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BTW, I think that "baksheesh" is arabic for "bribe" or "greese my palm & it will go faster". There was definitely a "price" for everything there!
~SubMariner~