Trip Report Back from our first visit to Cayman Brac.

[drrich2]

On our last trip, I regretted doing two tank boat dives in the morning. My time would have been much better spent shore diving.

Is that from the perspective of having already done a number of boat dives there in the past? I ask because someone who's already experienced the boat diving (which I take it looks a bit different underwater) may have 'been there, done that' in a way that a 1st timer to Cayman Brac might not have...and might miss out on if 'only' shore diving.

For comparison, I've been to Bonaire 9 times. Last time, didn't mess with eating out at distant restaurants, the national park, the Donkey Sanctuary or head over to sight see the east coast. All of which are worthwhile things a 1st timer might enjoy, but I've done all that and just wanted to shore dive. And on Bonaire, the shore diving and (most of) the boat diving aren't reputed to be all that different. CB reports read differently.

 

[divezonescuba]

During the normal condition, non-winter months, the best diving is on the north side. Boats will generally only go to the western end of the north side. On the other hand you can go to many more dive sites anywhere on the north side in a minivan. The boat also leaves later and gets back later. You could easily do three really good shore dives by the time the two tank boats get back. Many times there are shore divers and boat divers at the same western sites. I could enter from scotts dock 10 times in one trip and do a completely different dive each time. Of course it’s also one fifth of the cost.

One time a guy did a night boat dive and he ended up diving right off the shore from the house we were staying at. We were talking to him from the shore. He could have swam out there from the house.

On the other hand, if you go during the winter months, it is more difficult to shore dive the north side due to the wind and wave direction. The wall is too far for shore dives on the south side, so you have to mostly do boat dives on the south side. We won’t go to cayman brac in the winter anymore.

 

[chillyinCanada]

I just want to comment about something - and every time this issue comes up on SB it causes some angst - but I think it is important.

It seems that often when people are told (or assume) that a diving-related policy is a "law" or a "governmental regulation" it is usually a recommended safety practice from the WATER SPORTS OPERATIONS GUIDELINES - CAYMAN ISLANDS TOURISM ASSOCIATION (CITA) - see the attachment.

Most Cayman dive ops are CITA members and most chose to follow these recommendations but some operations may occasionally make some exceptions, and that leads to confusion and the question always arises "well, is it the law or not?"

Below is an excerpt from the CITA guidelines regarding renting tanks for shore diving and they recommend only renting one tank at a time. Apparently Brac Scuba Shack has chosen to follow that recommendation but we have been informed by @divezonescuba that Reef Divers may allow you to rent 2 tanks for shore diving.

"...It is recommended that when renting scuba cylinders to open water divers that only one tank per certification card be given. It is recommended that when renting scuba cylinders to a certified and insured scuba instructor that only one cylinder per student is given and proof of teaching status & liability insurance of the instructor be shown..."

Another area of occasional confusion is in regards to solo-diving. The CITA guidelines do not recommend solo-diving and most Cayman dive ops have chosen to follow that recommendation, including Reef Divers, but @scubadada has been informed by Brac Scuba Shack that he can solo-dive with them as long as he is solo-certified and has a pony bottle, see the link below:
https://www.scubaboard.com/community/posts/8137929/

It's fine with me if dive ops make the decision to always adhere to the guidelines or to make occasional exceptions in some instances - it's their business and they have the responsibility and liability - so it is their decision! And many people probably feel that the guidelines are the same thing as laws and that's totally understandable.

But if you are looking for something a little different and you are told that it is "against the laws governing diving in Cayman" that may not be entirely accurate, and another operator may be more willing to accommodate your request.

If a shore diver runs up against the one tank rental situation, what's the problem with renting another tank from a different shop? Yes, slightly inconvenient but is it that much more inconvenient than running back to one shop for another tank between dives?

 

[morecowbells]

Thanks everybody for all the feedback and additional information on the logistics of shore diving in Brac. When we booked the condo I was initially looking at 1 bedroom units on VRBO. One day I did not use the filter feature and it ended up that the 2 bedroom unit we booked actually cost less than many of the 1 bedroom units. We paid a total of $1476 for a week. This included booking fees, taxes and trip insurance through VRBO. The information which I gathered on Scubaboard discussed the limitations of grocery items. We arrived on on a Sat. afternoon, and it was true, the grocery selection, especially produce was sorely lacking. Apparently the ships carrying the groceries arrives on Thursdays. For breakfast we would eat some tangerines, nuts and protein bars. Lunch consisted of buns(from Pioneer Bakery), salami and cheese with....more tangerines. By dinner time we always ate out. I like having a salad with dinner. With the lack of lettuce and price of groceries, eating at The Captain's Table was a no brainer. They also had tasty, fresh salads.
We dived Nitrox. It was not much more expensive(unlike Cozumel which charges out the nose for Nitrox). We were told by Brac Scuba Shack that it was fine tying your SMB to the buoy of the dive site. We remember to do this once. To be honest, the other times we completely forgot. There was only one time where there were people swimming in the protected area at Handcuff Reef. We never saw other divers or boats. Brac Scuba Shack is a free standing dive op without a resort on site. On their website they will occasionally run specials with a rental/dive package.
We spent an afternoon checking out some of the topside of the island. The lighthouse was disappointing. It is a small solar powered structure which was just meh. I did like walking the area on the bluff and listening to the boobies sing. The parakeet garden was also meh. It was well maintained, shady and peaceful, but we didn't see much for birds. I know I sound like a a curmudgeon, but I enjoyed the afternoons reading in the hammock on the second level of the pier.
Below is a photo of the dream shore dive entry at Handcuff Reef(the ladder is just down the concrete steps).

 

[KathyV]

Although infrequent, we do occasionally read reports about shore diving Brac like this report from @morecowbells.

But we rarely hear anything about shore diving Little Cayman and that surprises me. The reefs start shallow and are close to shore around LC and the double wall construction of Jackson's Bight, with the mini-wall near shore, sounds great for shore diving!

Yet we do know that there is some shore diving happening there. @Ricardo V. wrote this interesting report about the shore diving off LC, and he and his wife bumped into another shore diver (solo) while they were out there!
https://www.scubaboard.com/community/posts/8139619/

He also posted this link with some info about shore diving LC:
https://www.qsl.net/zf2nt/index.htm

So why isn't there more shore diving off Little Cayman?!

@morecowbells I'm sorry, but it seems that your excellent thread is permanently hi-jacked because you've started such an interesting discussion!

 

[morecowbells]

Although not often, we do occasionally read reports about shore diving Brac but you hardly ever see anything about shore diving Little Cayman - and that strikes me as odd. After all, the reefs are close to shore and start shallow around LC. Also, the Jackson's Bight section has a double-wall construction with the mini-wall close to shore and that sounds perfect for shore diving!

But we know that there is some shore diving happening on Little Cayman. @Ricardo V. wrote this interesting report of shore diving there and they bumped into another (solo) shore diver while they were out there!
https://www.scubaboard.com/community/posts/8139619/

He also posted this link with some info about shore diving LC:
https://www.qsl.net/zf2nt/index.htm

@morecowbells I'm sorry, but it seems that your excellent thread is permanently hi-jacked because you've started such an interesting discussion!

Hijacked? No way! I think so many of you have provided some great information. You gave me so many helpful tips that I used for our vacation. I enjoy reading all the different perspectives. I have not been to Little Cayman. I talked to a couple of other divers on the boat who said there were far more grouper in LC, but they felt the coral in CB was healthier. When I return, I will probably do a 50/50 shore diving and boat diving vacation.

 

[KathyV]

As a longtime fan of Cayman Brac shore diving, I will reply with my biased views. Dive shops are supposed to limit divers to one rental tank at a time unless supervised on a boat or in a class. This is a governmental regulation that is supposed to prevent uncertified people from diving.

IMHO Brac Scuba Shack is more “shore diver” friendly. This maybe due to not being attached to a resort or being a smaller op or whatever. Regardless of the reason, they are my go to op and have always treated my family, friends and myself very well. Very professional staff and operation.

A car is a must for shore diving in the Brac. For us this is not an issue as we almost always stay at a VRBO on the north side in West End.

As far as infrastructure goes, there’s one resort, two gas stations, two dive ops, three decent grocery stores, about four or five bars, seven or eight places to eat, one really great bakery (Pioneer Bakery) and about forty churches.

Most of the shore diving is done on the north side with the sites marked Bonaire style. As mentioned, several sites have ladders or boat ramps for easy entry/exit. Unlike Bonaire,Vehicles are left unlocked with the keys left in them as you dive. Nobody bothers your stuff. Ironshore is around almost all dive site, so hard soled booties are really useful. Structure is usually hardpan out to about to 20-25 feet depth and then finger and groves type Reef or a mini wall with a large sandy flat are before coming to the main wall. Currents are usually slight to none. Depths run at 60 or less, so dive times tend to be about an hour. Atlantis and the Russian Frigate are doable from shore if you don’t mind the swim. You must carry a dive flag or marker. Several sites such as Handcuff, Radar(Dolphin and Ray sculpture side) and Scott’s Dock are great night dives. Tank rental runs about $10US for air and $12US for Nitrox.

Diving is not perfect here as there are issues. There is not a large population of big things, sharks are few, turtles are on the small size and there are fewer grouper than in Little Cayman. The latter has been confirmed by the DOE through the use of tracking to count the grouper population. Diving is better in Little Cayman. Since we were down in July, the coral appears to be stressed with bleaching present. Water temperatures have been recorded as high as 87. Visibility can decrease due to rainfall or rough seas.

Depending on where you stay accommodations start around $1000US per week and go to about $2500US per week depending on law or high season.

As KathyV has mentioned, the locals are friendly, crime is low, but like most islands gas and groceries are not cheap. Because I am thrifty or as my family and friends say, cheap, I pack coffee, peanut butter, tequila and other snacks down with me.

The Brac is not for everyone. If you don’t like the quiet or chickens or iguanas this place is not for you. If you need variety of shops and stores and restaurants, this place is not for you. If you need Fox News or CNN or daily newspapers, this place is not for you. If you would like a place to unwind, do a few easy dives a day, maybe go rock climbing, read a book or listen to music or just chill, have a drink and stare at the ocean, then the Brac might be your place.

Apologies for being long winded and hijacking the thread, but I do get excited about the place. Safe diving to all

Thanks everybody for all the feedback and additional information on the logistics of shore diving in Brac. When we booked the condo I was initially looking at 1 bedroom units on VRBO. One day I did not use the filter feature and it ended up that the 2 bedroom unit we booked actually cost less than many of the 1 bedroom units. We paid a total of $1476 for a week. This included booking fees, taxes and trip insurance through VRBO. The information which I gathered on Scubaboard discussed the limitations of grocery items. We arrived on on a Sat. afternoon, and it was true, the grocery selection, especially produce was sorely lacking. Apparently the ships carrying the groceries arrives on Thursdays. For breakfast we would eat some tangerines, nuts and protein bars. Lunch consisted of buns(from Pioneer Bakery), salami and cheese with....more tangerines. By dinner time we always ate out. I like having a salad with dinner. With the lack of lettuce and price of groceries, eating at The Captain's Table was a no brainer. They also had tasty, fresh salads.
We dived Nitrox. It was not much more expensive(unlike Cozumel which charges out the nose for Nitrox). We were told by Brac Scuba Shack that it was fine tying your SMB to the buoy of the dive site. We remember to do this once. To be honest, the other times we completely forgot. There was only one time where there were people swimming in the protected area at Handcuff Reef. We never saw other divers or boats. Brac Scuba Shack is a free standing dive op without a resort on site. On their website they will occasionally run specials with a rental/dive package.
We spent an afternoon checking out some of the topside of the island. The lighthouse was disappointing. It is a small solar powered structure which was just meh. I did like walking the area on the bluff and listening to the boobies sing. The parakeet garden was also meh. It was well maintained, shady and peaceful, but we didn't see much for birds. I know I sound like a a curmudgeon, but I enjoyed the afternoons reading in the hammock on the second level of the pier.
Below is a photo of the dream shore dive entry at Handcuff Reef(the ladder is just down the concrete steps).
View attachment 548931

We've always stayed at the all-inclusive resorts when we are in the Sister Islands but we have stopped in the stores a few times and have been unimpressed with the selections and sticker-shocked by the prices. I had a conversation about this with a woman working in a restaurant while we were on Grand Cayman. She said that her Mother lives on Brac and the lack of fresh supplies and the high prices are a constant issue for her. I mentioned the high costs in the grocery stores on GC and she said that the prices are even higher in the Sister Islands. She said "No kidding! If a gallon of milk is $6 on Grand it will be $9 or $10 on Brac - if you can get it!"

She also said that she understood our pain in regards to the currency conversion issue. She had traveled to Havana recently and her Cayman money didn't seem to be worth much in Cuba.

I had a lovely massage at the LCBR spa and the therapist said that the resort provides some meals for the hotel staff. She said "I don't know how we could make here if they didn't do that because everything is so expensive and hard to find!"

There was a couple on our cancelled flight that were staying at a rental property on LC and they were carrying a cooler that they had packed with meat and other fresh groceries. They were understandably very worried that these items would spoil during the delays. At the airport and while overnighting at the hotel, they kept trying to find ice to add to their cooler - I hope that their stuff didn't go bad!

 

[howswedeofme]

@drrich2 you're correct that Brac Scuba Shack is a standalone op. We don't like AI - we want more space for ourselves and are typically disappointed with AI food - so it was a welcome discovery for us when most people are CBBR loyalists. BSS did recommend a car rental place who gave us a discount because of their referral. Not sure if that's true anymore, but it was appreciated at the time! I'm sure CBBR runs a great operation, too, but the service at BSS was remarkable. I don't know if its the natural personality of the staff or if they put forth incredible effort on this front but they were some of the most enjoyable people to be around on a boat. For those of us who don't like the AI option, it's really wonderful for the Brac to have a separate dive shop that caters to the a la carte traveler.

As for the annoying flag - I hear you on how awful it is in Florida. I fight to keep up with our group the whole time and don't even bother with my camera when I'm up as the flag carrier. On the Brac, we didn't carry our flag the entire dive on any site and the flag itself a more basic set up than what they use in Florida so it was less cumbersome, IMO. There are underwater hooks/loops throughout the dive sites we were on to tie up the flag. I found Bonaire incredibly boring because the topography was so similar around the island but the Brac has some really interesting topography with a lot of nooks, crannies and crevices to look into. I wish the weather had cooperated for the south side to be calm for some of the shore dives over there as I understand that's where you could see some big stuff but we had some pretty raging seas on that side the whole week we were there. The north side was like glass with no current, though.

Oh! For groceries. Find Kirkconnell's market! It's much bigger and has far more variety. We went to the smaller market in the middle of "town" for the first few days which is very convenient but we were happily surprised to happened upon Kirkconnell's.

 

[KathyV]

@drrich2 you're correct that Brac Scuba Shack is a standalone op. We don't like AI - we want more space for ourselves and are typically disappointed with AI food - so it was a welcome discovery for us when most people are CBBR loyalists. BSS did recommend a car rental place who gave us a discount because of their referral. Not sure if that's true anymore, but it was appreciated at the time! I'm sure CBBR runs a great operation, too, but the service at BSS was remarkable. I don't know if its the natural personality of the staff or if they put forth incredible effort on this front but they were some of the most enjoyable people to be around on a boat. For those of us who don't like the AI option, it's really wonderful for the Brac to have a separate dive shop that caters to the a la carte traveler.

As for the annoying flag - I hear you on how awful it is in Florida. I fight to keep up with our group the whole time and don't even bother with my camera when I'm up as the flag carrier. On the Brac, we didn't carry our flag the entire dive on any site and the flag itself a more basic set up than what they use in Florida so it was less cumbersome, IMO. There are underwater hooks/loops throughout the dive sites we were on to tie up the flag. I found Bonaire incredibly boring because the topography was so similar around the island but the Brac has some really interesting topography with a lot of nooks, crannies and crevices to look into. I wish the weather had cooperated for the south side to be calm for some of the shore dives over there as I understand that's where you could see some big stuff but we had some pretty raging seas on that side the whole week we were there. The north side was like glass with no current, though.

Oh! For groceries. Find Kirkconnell's market! It's much bigger and has far more variety. We went to the smaller market in the middle of "town" for the first few days which is very convenient but we were happily surprised to happened upon Kirkconnell's.

Yes, Kirkconnell's is definitely the biggest grocery on Brac and there are a few more options for stores on Brac than on Little Cayman. Is there anyplace to buy a few clothing items on Brac? I'm thinking about luggage delays.

LC has a small general store, a small liquor store, and one gas pump in Blossom Village - and that's all! So I can understand why the couple staying at a rental property was bringing a cooler of food with them. I'll bet that their 55 lbs each of checked baggage was loaded with dry goods!

 

[scubadada]

Has anyone seen/toured the old Divi Tiara site since the demolition for Prince Charles visit in March? It was really decrepit when I visited 2 years ago. What is it now, a beach with access?

Divi Tiara, perfect for Halloween
Divi Tiara bar signs