Autoinflating drysuit

[300bar]

okay, i've got more caffeine in my system and i'm parsing you correctly now...

didn't know that...

anway, i did take a sliver of something like eelgrass out of my inflator once which solved an auto-inflation issue...

Don't know what caffiene will do on a reg or inlet valve (yet)

But eelgrass,salt,silt and the likes will,in opposit to high IP, do the trick

 

[Randy43068]

Sorry just don't see why.

If IP is off(way to high)drysuit valve will not be affected.
Second stage will freeflow,but inlet valve will not.
Inlet valve will have only radial forces,while second stage forces are on the axes,and therefore are prone to a freeflow.

If IP is high,yes get it serviced.

As for the autoinflation,just take the thing apart,clean and lube and put back together.That should solve the problem.

That's right. I forgot that while in my before coffee morning fog.

 

[cool_hardware52]

If you flush power inflators and Drysuit Inflators with fresh water the reliability will be increased.

Look here http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/deep-sea-supply/203465-another-new-gizmo-valve-flusher.html#post3115076

Periodic maintenance is still recommended.

Tobin

 

[CardShark]

The button rebounds and appears to shut off. There just seems to be slow leak -- sometimes slower than others!

After purging the inlet with clean water : you could try soaking the valve in 100 - 120 degree water; then ( while still immersed ) cycling the valve. If you then disassemble the valve, immerse the parts in clean water & lightly brush the parts ( an old toothbrush works well ) while immersed, you'll probably resolve the malfunction. ( It worked well on my Sitechs. )

 

[dave4868]

The button rebounds and appears to shut off. There just seems to be slow leak -- sometimes slower than others!

My Apeks did the same thing, the spring apparently not able to push the button back out fully, thereby not fully shutting off the valve.

It began sporadically, then became more frequent, sometimes leaking more air than at other times.

If the button was released slowly, the leak was worse. If pushed and released quickly or repeatedly, the valve would tend to shut off better.

When disassembled, the o-rings appeared to have no lube left on them. There was no contamination seen, but I cleaned everything. I concluded the o-rings were simply dragging in the valve shaft tube.

Relubing the o-rings was the most important part of the cure, IMHO.

Dynamic o-rings get "dry" after many cycles, so my guess is the problem may recur after a few hundred dives and the o-rings will need lubing again.

It's nice to know it's so easy to do.

Dave C