Attaching BC Inflator hose to Stage 1

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Howie411

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Just got a new BC and it came with a flexible inflator hose. I'd like to use it, is there anything specific I need to do to replace the existing one? Is it easy to do or should I take it to the diveshop and let them do it.

The manual says "Check to ensure the o-ring is present and in good condition.
Screw the threaded end of the hose into the port and tighten to
40 in-lbs (4.5 Nm) with a 9/16” wrench."

So does that mean all I need is to find a 9/16 wrench and I should be able to remove the old one and then put the new one on? How do I know what 40 in-lbs is equal too when I tighten it?
 
So does that mean all I need is to find a 9/16 wrench and I should be able to remove the old one and then put the new one on? How do I know what 40 in-lbs is equal too when I tighten it?

Yup, just grab a wrench and remove the old one and swap it out. As for the tightness, I tighten it 'til it's snug and then a tiny bit more.


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40 ft-lbs is delivered when you push on a wrench with 40 lbs of force and the wrench itself is 1 ft long. I'm not a mechanic or a scuba technician, but that seems like a lot of force to tighten a reg hose?

Just use a wrench to take the old one off and use a little less force to install the new one. You are working with brass not steel.
 
40 ft-lbs is delivered when you push on a wrench with 40 lbs of force and the wrench itself is 1 ft long. I'm not a mechanic or a scuba technician, but that seems like a lot of force to tighten a reg hose?

Just use a wrench to take the old one off and use a little less force to install the new one. You are working with brass not steel.

INCH-Poinds.
 
INCH-Poinds.


OH.. LOL I'm NOT a detail guy.... Your spelling isn't great either... I can't read and you can't write..
 
Google "torque wrench" and the results will fill you in on "tightening stuff". Not tight enough and the hose will work lose. Too tight and you will strip the threads on the first stage and destroy it (but your hose will likely survive).

Ft-lbs is a common unit when dealing with machinery. My car wheel nuts are tightened to 90 ft-lbs. That is a lot of force.

Your situation deals with much less force.

40 in-lbs is WAY less. by feel, I have no idea how much to tighten to get this. If you can remember how much force it took to turn the hose to remove it, that will be in the ball park.

If you are not mechanically inclined, I suggest you take it to your LDS and pay them to have it done properly.

---------- Post added August 16th, 2013 at 10:59 PM ----------

I would hand the parts and a $10 bill to the shop person and you should get it done in a few minutes.
 
I just use a small wrench and lightly (minimal force) tighten to stop and then a small small extra twist to secure.

A decent adjustable wrench would be fine, around 6" or so.
 
I just use a small wrench and lightly (minimal force) tighten to stop and then a small small extra twist to secure.

A decent adjustable wrench would be fine, around 6" or so.

That is exactly how I do it, and let me tell you, if there was any way to mess it up... I would have done it by now.

When you snug it down on that last twist, it may seem to barely move. That's OK.

Don't forget to lightly lube the o-rings.
 
I don't lube. Is that bad?

---------- Post added August 17th, 2013 at 12:07 AM ----------

Btw, if you really want to use a torque wrench, you are probably looking at a 1/4" drive one with a crowfoot wrench attached with the opening at a right angle to the length of the wrench.
 
Howie, from the above you should gather that the biggest issue is not to overtighten the hose.
My suggestion is to screw it in BY HAND until it stops, the oring should not be visiable and the fitting flush with the regulator. The reason you do it by hand is to ensure you are in straight and nothing is binding, if you need the wrench before the last turn, something is wrong. Then with the proper wrench, gently snugg the connection. 2 fingers on the end of a wrench is plenty to provide enough torque without over doing it. As long as the hose does not work loose it's plenty tight. If it leaks, do not tighten any farther. Orings do not use torque to seal so if it leaks you have an oring or oring groove problem, more torque is NEVER the fix for an oring leaking.

To lube or not to lube is one of those questions that has cuased a lot of debate on the board but IMO light lubing is a good idea.
 

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