Atomic Cobalt 2

[griffon]

*shrug* it's been a year or so I might be miss remembering the exact behavior but the net effect was the same. Time to go 300 psi sooner.


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[RonR]

*shrug* it's been a year or so I might be miss remembering the exact behavior but the net effect was the same. Time to go 300 psi sooner.


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Probably not the same net result- unless the Cobalt read zero psi when on a 300 psi tank, which would be pretty unlikely given how they are calibrated. Gauge errors are usually a % of scale, so it's quite possible for one gauge to read 300 psi higher than another at high pressure, yet for both to still end up together at the same zero point. The only way to verify the accuracy of any gauge is to reference it to an accurately calibrated one, and to do so at multiple pressure readings, as errors are not necessarily linear. A good dive shop repair department should be able to do this.

Ron

 

[sincity]

RonR, i am a brand new diver, i purchased a cobalt 2 the other day and noticed the version is 2.13/2, i registered on Atomic's web site and down loaded the version upgrade to my MAC, but i could not open it, my Mac says it did not recognize it and does not have an application to open it with. this MAC is about 6 or 7 years old.
thanks,
Sincity

 

[RonR]

RonR, i am a brand new diver, i purchased a cobalt 2 the other day and noticed the version is 2.13/2, i registered on Atomic's web site and down loaded the version upgrade to my MAC, but i could not open it, my Mac says it did not recognize it and does not have an application to open it with. this MAC is about 6 or 7 years old.
thanks,
Sincity

Your Mac won't be able to open the file- it doesn't need to. You need to copy it to the Cobalt, and the Cobalt will take care of opening it.

Instructions are below. Atomic's website has some illustrated instructions: Atomic Aquatics Cobalt Software

Ron

Cobalt 2 Firmware Update Instructions:

First, download the firmware file, unzip it, and put it on your computer.

1) Connect the Cobalt to the PC with the USB cable and adapter (make sure it is plugged into the Cobalt using the USB side of the adapter).
2) Press and hold both the SELECT and BACK buttons for 11 seconds- the Cobalt should go dark.
3) You should se an icon or disk representation on your PC/ Mac that says BOOTLOADER. Exactly what you see will depend on your operating system. It will look just like a USB thumb drive or an SD card does on you system.
4) The firmware file should be called (depending on version #) Cobalt2_2.XX_User.S19. Don't try to open this. Drag or copy this firmware file onto/ into this BOOTLOADER device. This will start copying the firmware file into the Cobalt. If you are on Windows you can right click and select Send To.
5) You may or may not see a progress bar on you PC/ Mac desktop- it depends on the OS version you are using. But after a couple of minutes, you should see some sort of completed message, or the progress indicator or window will just go away. Don't disconnect while copying is in progress.
6) When it is done, eject the BOOTLOADER device just as you would a thumb drive or SD card- again, exactly what you do or see will depend on your OS. On most systems, the Cobalt will get a message to restart at that point and you will see it come up to the Set Time & Date screen. If that does not happen, just unplug USB from the Cobalt, and reset it manually by pressing and holding the SELECT and BACK buttons for 11 seconds.


If the Cobalt is connected to a USB source, pressing and holding the SELECT and BACK buttons will put it into boot mode, where it will remain black. In order to restart the firmware, it needs to be disconnected from USB.

 

[sincity]

thanks Ron, i just figured it out, and my cobalt 2 now has 2.14/2, it took me a while to realize i didnt need to open it.

 

[MegaBMan25]

I think it would be neat if we could send in out Cobalt 1's and for a fee ($200-$300) get them upgraded to Cobalt 2 specs.

 

[RonR]

I think it would be neat if we could send in out Cobalt 1's and for a fee ($200-$300) get them upgraded to Cobalt 2 specs.

Other than the outer shell, the Cobalt 1 and Cobalt 2 have almost no parts in common, so any program like that would need to be a trade-in rather than an upgrade.

Ron

 

[drrich2]

Be interesting to see what kind of price a trade-in program would entail.

I'm still waiting to see a wrist version. I'd like to see something with longer battery life than that new Aeris wrist unit that's making the news lately, and ideally a built-in rechargeable battery that I needed remove to charge (I've read concerning posts about the LiquiVision Lynx in regards to changing out a rechargeable, if memory serves). I'm not 'handy' and if there's a way to misunderstand directions, I will find it. I love how the console Cobalt charges, and holds a charge so long.

Richard.

 

[griffon]

Yeah the lynx battery change is awkward. I'm always afraid I'll break one of the tray connections. It clearly was not designed for this in mind. One thing in the Aeris favor though is it uses a standard 3v camera battery that you can buy for less then 5 bucks. Making the lynx non rechargeable look insane, especially given the real world run rate.
I would like to have my pie and eat it too. Core rechargeable via USB or whatever and then be able to have it user swappable in pinch. A boy can dream.


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[MegaBMan25]

Be interesting to see what kind of price a trade-in program would entail.

I'm still waiting to see a wrist version. I'd like to see something with longer battery life than that new Aeris wrist unit that's making the news lately, and ideally a built-in rechargeable battery that I needed remove to charge (I've read concerning posts about the LiquiVision Lynx in regards to changing out a rechargeable, if memory serves). I'm not 'handy' and if there's a way to misunderstand directions, I will find it. I love how the console Cobalt charges, and holds a charge so long.

Richard.

Right. some sort of trade-in program would be nice for those who want it.