Are these used Apeks / Conshelf regs any good?

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Most regs (and Apeks is a prime example) evolve rather slowly.
The first stages are practically unchanged for a good 20 years.....in fact the only changes that I can think of are the yoke knob, o ring colour and sticker under the environmental seal.
2nd stages have evolved from the T series with a full size case to the AT series with a slightly smaller case to the XT which can be reversed (hose wise) and has a pop off exhaust T........all 3 series still use the same service kit and have very similar performance (in fact the earliest pre CE T series will have the best WOB numbers).
Add the fact that any reg that has been properly serviced will work as well as it did when it was new and honestly the answer is no, a new reg isn't necessarily better than an used reg (assuming it hasn't been put away wet and salty and left to rot).
.....one thing you should look at in the T series is the 2nd stage inhalation diaphragm.....some had a tendency to taco and make the set-up adjustment difficult, but most would have been replaced by now when it was serviced.
 
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Fishpie has some excellent information for you.

For reference I purchased two Apeks rebranded Zeagle's DST/Tech 50D for $150 each. The hoses they came with were useless at around 28". Both were brand new unused, and both were years old. I had to rebuild them and one needed a new 2nd stage diagram. I sold one of the first stages down the road for around $100. So in the end I paid right around $300 for the regs including rebuild kits and a new diaphragm. Rebuild kits run around $20 for each stage if I remember correctly. It is a great reg set and still in use as far as I know.

Side note the DST uses a 1/2" port for one of them. If you don't need all four LP ports it won't be an issue. Drysuit changes everything. Halcyon along with some others make 1/2" hoses though.

Do you want yoke or DIN? Most people that own their own tanks use DIN. If renting tanks yoke is more common. I swap our regs to yoke when traveling to warm water.

If you are just investing in gear I would recommend you read up on setting up a hogarthian kit. It works perfectly for recreational diving. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
Equipment Configuration | Global Underwater Explorers
 
If the valve seat of the Apeks reg is corroded or damaged....bad news.
Only the FSR(usually coupled with the top of the range 2nd stage) comes with an replaceable valve seat.
Anyone buying a used Apeks 1st stage should check the IP pressure. Any creeping of the pressure would indicate problem.
 
I would, without question, go with the NEW Apeks set--assuming that it IS new. The AT20 set could have come with either a US4 (unsealed, no turret) or a UST (unsealed,turret) first stage. Both are excellent. The one minor chink in the Apeks armor is that all except the 200 series (FSR) first stages have an orifice which is integral with the body ( not replaceable). That is seldom a problem, but if some "ham-handed tech" managed to gouge the seating surface, the body would probably have to be replaced. This, of course, should not be a problem with a new first stage. But, as mentioned above, if you opt for a used Apeks set, it would be wise to have it checked.
 
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Apparently the seller was wrong, the used set for $150 has a US4 and not a DST.


@Centrals - The regs are "new" as in that they have never been used. Private owner is selling to me. Wasn't sure if you thought I meant in a retail store or dive shop......I wish I had those kinds of connections :)
I am definately making sure I drop any set I purchase off at my LDS asap after I buy any reg to have it inspected.


Since the used set has the unsealed 1st I am going to try and snag the other "new" ones, I am just waiting to hear back from the seller in hopes they have not yet been sold.


@Keyshunter - I am still trying to figure out which first stage is included, Ive googled the #s on the regs, and looked on the APEKS site but not found much that is definitive as to giving me an answer.
I put a link below with pics of the set, if anyone has any knowledge of the serials, however, at this point I am just going to try to buy them assuming its a US4.


Pics -->> Picasa Web Albums - terry royce - apeks reg 1st...


Thanks again for all the info/input guys.
 
The picture shows a UST 1st stage........apart from having a turret an additional HP port and one 1/2" LP port it is the same as a US4.
I have found the turret of little use since with 3 or 4 hoses attached it doesn't get much chance to swivel.

As for rushing to get it serviced, why not get a cheap IP gauge and check it out yourself. My experience with Apeks regs is they can easily handle very extended service intervals......I have a US4 1st stage that I bought from a Zeagle rep as a demmo in 1991 that has never had a proper service, only a couple of replacement o rings, and is still working fine with its original seat.
 
US$200.00 for a brand(?) new complete set of Apeks(old model) is very hard to beat. Pity the seller is not local!
You have to decide if the reg is suitable for cold water diving.

Yes, as suggested get a cheap IP gauge and check it yourself. You will need a full and a near empty tank(500psi) though. To make sure the reg will still deliver 9.5 bars of pressure at high and low tank pressure.

The TX50 and DST is good alternative BUT as already mentioned, TX50 is pretty ancient. Nothing wrong with it though as I am still using it(13yrs old) myself. The 1st stage could be an issue. How about the attached hoses?
 
@Fishpie - I figured I would get my get my local dive shop to check them out, the cost seemed pretty cheap for their "Annual Inspection"
Their website says they
"Regulators are pressure immersion tested, medium pressure checked, inspected for worn or damaged parts and leak tested. Cost $10.00 / stage plus parts if needed"

Thanks for the heads up on the IP gauge. Again a handy piece of information I didn't know.

For future reference, what can happen with higher pressure and what can happen with lower pressure.
There is no fluctuation in the 9.5?
 
For future reference, what can happen with higher pressure and what can happen with lower pressure.
There is no fluctuation in the 9.5?
Just to make sure the 1st stage will put out the same pressure at both extremes of the supply pressure.
The set pressure should be STABLE at 9.5 bars or 130-135psi. If the pressure creeps upward more than 3-5psi within few minutes then you have a leak. The pressure seat is worn and time for complete overhaul.
Do not get mix up with drift pressure though. It is the tendency for the set pressure to be deviated by a few lbs once the final adjustment has been made. The pressure seat and the valve seat need to "mate" properly and the upward drift stop is no more than couple of lbs.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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