Do you have to take the sealed cap off, hook the reg to a tank, pressurize it, and then put the cap back on to "set" the ambient pressure? Anyone ever heard of this before? I breathed both of mine straight from the box...
Apeks DS4
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wetman
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Both of mine seem to be working like a charm straight out of the box as well.
steve
steve
pchelp
Guest
Don't know. Used my DS4/TX50 straight out of the box, and had it checked after 6 dives, just the way it should be (or that's what the lds told me). Works perfectly.
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I never heard of such a thing. I dive all 4 of mine the way they came.
Tom
R
redacted
Guest
Based on Apeks schematics & service instructions, it looks like you do have to remove the environmental end cap to get at the intermediate pressure (IP) adjuster on the 1st stages associated with the TX50 & TX100. TX 20 1st stage does not have the environmental cap & cover and looks to be directly accessable. So if you mean IP rather than 'ambient pressure', and it needs to be adjusted, then yes. I dive scubapro (just happened to copy Apeks doc off the net before new wholesaler turned up the heat) and have never had to adjust a reg out of the box. In any case, it's a good idea to check and record IP on the new reg and frequently in use. It's like taking the temperature, blood pressure, and pulse of your first stage. Should be 135 psi (+/- 5 psi). Adjustment procedures describe starting at a stable IP of 120 or less and then adjusting it upward in increments to the spec. Then cycle the first at least 15 times to verify a consistent lock up within spec.
OP
This is how the thing went down. We were at a dive meeting and Divernva and I were switching our new Apeks (the diveinn Apeks TX fire sale) from yoke to din. Two of the more experienced guys came over and pushed in on the environmental cap (the pressure sensing rubber piece) and said something about "see how this one is full of air and pressurized?". "see how this one is not". "Don't dive it like that without doing the aforementioned procedure".
R
redacted
Guest
Service manual does not call for such a procedure specifically, but the IP adjustment is done with the environmental cap & stuff removed which would have the same effect. Wish I was more comfortable with diaphram firsts. It sure seems to me, looking at the schematic and realizing we are talking about the "ambient chamber" that it should be self equalizing to the ambient environment. I'll take a look at Vance Harlow's book tonight. Or you could just do what they suggest and see what happens. Maybe the IP could stand a tweek while your at it. It shouldn't hurt anything.
You know, the more I look at the diagram, the more I think those were two guys having fun. Are they, by any chance, affiliated with some LDS and trying to teach you what happens when you buy online?
You know, the more I look at the diagram, the more I think those were two guys having fun. Are they, by any chance, affiliated with some LDS and trying to teach you what happens when you buy online?
OP
They may have been having fun though...regardless, when they were out of earshot we were thinking they were full of it..just wanted to check it out with another source.
Let's say that the cap is one square inch in surface area. If pushing on it takes, lets say, 2 pounds of force to deflect it, that means it's pressurized 2 PSI over ambient, which means your IP will be 2 PSI high.
In other words, in the noise level.
If this were true us divers in Colorado would be dropping like flies snice we go to all different altitudes to dive.
Roak
In other words, in the noise level.
If this were true us divers in Colorado would be dropping like flies snice we go to all different altitudes to dive.
Roak
Hey, ORing, here's the scoop.
If you need to set the i.p. you must access the adjusting nut under the pressure transmitter.
Upon re-assembly you need to have the regulator pressurized BEFORE you screw down the environmental sealing end cap
If you do it the other way, when you pressurize the regulator, the diaphram flexes, and the chamber swells outward.
Here's a BIG caution, you must use 2 spanner pin wrenches to disassemble the pressure transmitter cap from the body, and to re-assemble it. The diaphram clamp must be hard and tight against the body, or you might blow out the diaphram U.W. while diving.
If you need to set the i.p. you must access the adjusting nut under the pressure transmitter.
Upon re-assembly you need to have the regulator pressurized BEFORE you screw down the environmental sealing end cap
If you do it the other way, when you pressurize the regulator, the diaphram flexes, and the chamber swells outward.
Here's a BIG caution, you must use 2 spanner pin wrenches to disassemble the pressure transmitter cap from the body, and to re-assemble it. The diaphram clamp must be hard and tight against the body, or you might blow out the diaphram U.W. while diving.
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