Apeks DIN to yolk conversion question.
- Thread starter wilson23
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Bubbletrubble
Contributor
That depends.
Does the "untrained slob" have the initiative to download/read/understand the Apeks first stage technician's manual?
Is he willing to purchase the special socket, extension, and torque wrench so that the yoke clamp connector is tightened properly?
Is he willing to live with the consequences of a DIY job (even though it is fairly minor)?
You might as well purchase a spin-on din-to-yoke adapter and keep it in your save-a-dive kit. In fact, this might be the solution you're looking for. This will allow you to attach your DIN-configured reg to a yoke tank valve. The spin-on adapter requires no tools at all...perfect for an "untrained slob." The one downside is that it does cause the anterior of the reg to jut out a little. Depending on your BC setup, this may place the reg close to the back of your head. Some people complain about this. I've never had an issue with it.
Alternatively, you could wait until your next reg overhaul and provide the yoke parts to the reg tech. He should be able to install the yoke parts instead of the DIN parts at no additional charge.
Does the "untrained slob" have the initiative to download/read/understand the Apeks first stage technician's manual?
Is he willing to purchase the special socket, extension, and torque wrench so that the yoke clamp connector is tightened properly?
Is he willing to live with the consequences of a DIY job (even though it is fairly minor)?
You might as well purchase a spin-on din-to-yoke adapter and keep it in your save-a-dive kit. In fact, this might be the solution you're looking for. This will allow you to attach your DIN-configured reg to a yoke tank valve. The spin-on adapter requires no tools at all...perfect for an "untrained slob." The one downside is that it does cause the anterior of the reg to jut out a little. Depending on your BC setup, this may place the reg close to the back of your head. Some people complain about this. I've never had an issue with it.
Alternatively, you could wait until your next reg overhaul and provide the yoke parts to the reg tech. He should be able to install the yoke parts instead of the DIN parts at no additional charge.
I hate DIN-yoke converters
Don't forget to swap the filters over as well
Since the OP is about removing the yoke... you'd need an allen key socket & torque wrench to torque the DIN fitting - although a plain allen key and some brute strength would do fine IMO
Don't forget to swap the filters over as well
Since the OP is about removing the yoke... you'd need an allen key socket & torque wrench to torque the DIN fitting - although a plain allen key and some brute strength would do fine IMO
Bubbletrubble
Contributor
@Tortuga68: I think the OP is interested in moving the yoke parts from a DST to a DIN-configured FSR. He plans to use the FSR in yoke configuration.
Reading between the lines, I think the OP is considering purchasing/obtaining yoke parts from someone with a DST first stage.
He will need a 6mm allen key to remove the DIN handwheel connector from the FSR.
If he ever wants to re-install the DIN parts on his FSR, he'll need a 6mm allen key socket (along with the torque wrench he should already have).
Ah yes, I mis-read... Still disagree about the torque wrench though
I will gladly sell the OP a genuine Apeks yoke fitting!
I will gladly sell the OP a genuine Apeks yoke fitting!
I believe you can remove the yoke nut with a big crescent wrench by spanning over the yoke bridge.
The hard part is holding the first stage and avoiding the tool mark if the wrench slips.
A 5" long x3" wide x 2 1/2 " deep wooden box screwed together and clamped in a vice will secure about any 1st stage for tear down and assembly.
The hard part is holding the first stage and avoiding the tool mark if the wrench slips.
A 5" long x3" wide x 2 1/2 " deep wooden box screwed together and clamped in a vice will secure about any 1st stage for tear down and assembly.
Bubbletrubble
Contributor
Removal of the yoke nut from a yoke-configured Apeks first stage is really easy. Use a standard 3/4-inch box end wrench. This is the tool specified in the Apeks reg tech manual. Of course, you can use the Piranha tool (mentioned by Tortuga68) or a large crescent wrench (suggested by Capt.Gene and knowone). Be careful with the large crescent wrench method since it could slip off and cause a ding or two. Sometimes the yoke nut won't release easily, so a fair amount of force needs to be applied to loosen it.
Removal of the DIN connector on a DIN-configured Apeks first stage is also straightforward. A 6mm hex key can be used. In fact, this is the tool specified in the Apeks reg tech manual.
The official recommended torque spec for installation of the yoke nut or the DIN connector on an Apeks first stage is 12 foot-lbs.
For the DIN connector, use a 6mm hex bit socket on a torque wrench.
For the yoke connector, you have two different options to use with a torque wrench: (1) a 3/4-inch box end wrench adapter or (2) a specially made socket that captures the 3/4-inch nut with an extension that is long enough to reach through the yoke clamp (like this one sold by ScubaTools.com).
If you don't care about torquing things properly, simply use a 6mm hex key for the DIN connector or a 3/4-inch box end wrench for the yoke connector.
In either case, the OP would be well served to download and read a reg tech manual for the FSR first stage.
Removal of the DIN connector on a DIN-configured Apeks first stage is also straightforward. A 6mm hex key can be used. In fact, this is the tool specified in the Apeks reg tech manual.
The official recommended torque spec for installation of the yoke nut or the DIN connector on an Apeks first stage is 12 foot-lbs.
For the DIN connector, use a 6mm hex bit socket on a torque wrench.
For the yoke connector, you have two different options to use with a torque wrench: (1) a 3/4-inch box end wrench adapter or (2) a specially made socket that captures the 3/4-inch nut with an extension that is long enough to reach through the yoke clamp (like this one sold by ScubaTools.com).
If you don't care about torquing things properly, simply use a 6mm hex key for the DIN connector or a 3/4-inch box end wrench for the yoke connector.
In either case, the OP would be well served to download and read a reg tech manual for the FSR first stage.
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