Anyone using Big Blue VL8300P video lights?

[tbone1004]

For many of us, we start with a $ budget, then see what can we get for that $.

I agree with BDSC, experienced videographers are not recording video continuous for an hour or more. Video is recorded in clips of 1 minute or less much of the time. Continuous even light output for 1-2 hours is not needed for videography.

the light taper will still occur as it is a function of pack voltage so whether you are shooting for 1 minute clips and then shutting the light off, it will still do it.

For the $ perspective, it is still important to look at because if you have say $800 to spend.
You can look at a new big blue 8300 as mentioned here that's $620 and say "damn it's 8300 lumens for an hour, when it isn't.
Alternatively you can look at this, which from a specs point is "measly" because it is only 5000 lumen, but it is a true 5000 lumen, and more importantly because of the CRI of the light, the video quality is better.
UWLD GEN 5 video light updated info

On the CRI thing and why it's important. See comparison in the link below. Compares a pair of 13,000 lumen lights at 70 CRI to a pair of the same exact light, but spec'd at 10,000 lumen to get 90CRI. Even though it is only 75% of the lumen output, the higher CRI makes the image look significantly better. Big Blue does not publish their CRI, but from videos I have seen it is definitely on the lower end of the spectrum. They also have a really high color temp at 6500 so it's a bit blue light vs. more white light *UWLD is 5600, L&M is 5000* and the blue light is common with LED's. I was actually really shocked when I saw the comparisons below in terms of CRI

High CRI – Best of both Worlds

 

[ronscuba]

Gradual light taper is not important because the individual video clips have a short duration.

CRI and it's importance has been debated for years. I am not a pro, but I have been shooting UW video for a long time. I started with halogen lights recording on videotape on a standard definition camcorder. When HID lights came out, halogen light users kept arguing better CRI of halogen vs HID. HID were better lights but very expensive. LED then came out and with their lower cost, high powered lights were available to many hobbyists.

IMHO, CRI it is a non issue. I adjust WB in camera and in editing. I don't care about the CRI of my lights. You can go crazy comparing this spec vs that spec trying to search and find the best lights. In the end, I don't focus too much on the gear itself, but think of gear, like lights, as a tool to help me make quality entertaining UW video.

What kind of camera and lights are you using ?

 

[bamafan]

I have had some high end lights such as Light Monkey and UWLD. They are good lights but very few people will actually see the difference between these lights and the Big Blue lights. The 30k lumen Big Blue video light is awesome. I have noticed that some of the KUR guys are even using them and they are sponsored by Light Monkey. I like the Light Monkey guys and Bobby with UWLD but if I was them I would be really concerned about the high end light market. The lights such as Big Blue are getting better and at a price point that is hard to beat.

 

[BDSC]

IMHO, CRI it is a non issue.

Unless you are shooting a woman wearing clothes in a swimming pool.

CRI is really more of a sales and marketing gimmick than anything else.

 

[ronscuba]

Tbone, you linked a forum post selling a used UWLD light.

Out of curiosity, I checked the UWLD video light offerings on their webpage. They sell a 10,000 lumen light for $1,400 and a 5,000 lumen light for $950. Both are canister lights with a light head corded to a battery canister.

Here is their web link.
5,000 Lumen Video Light

Even if assume the Big Blue 8300 lumen light is really 7,200, will fall off to 5,000 lumens over time, there is the $950 to $620 price difference and the Big Blue is self contained vs corded to a battery canister.

To each his own. I am happy with my Big Blue lights and I would buy them again.

 

[tbone1004]

@ronscuba the 10k video light is originally intended to be attached directly to the canister without a cord. There is an adapter to put it on one battery if you need to have the small light head on the arms or want to put multiple lights on the same battery pack. The 5k is a normal canister video light and not self contained. That has benefits depending on what your arm setup is or how big of a battery you need for run time.

Like I said, I have no issues with the BB lights, and they are great products, just make sure that you are doing your homework and not taking their marketing data and using that as the comparison point because it will make them seem like a deal that's too good to be true.
Oh, the other one is their beam angle is quoted on land, so there is a stark reduction in the water. The 15000 light claims 160*, but in testing it gave 80*, so make sure you have that factored in for shadows. That was a surprising one when I dove with it.

They're great value lights, just please do your homework before purchasing so you don't think you are getting specs that they promise but can't deliver

 

[pinshootr]

 

[BDSC]

That's a lot of light!

 

[ronscuba]

Whoa, those look monster. Might be heavy if you mount them on your camera rig. Maybe work best with a buddy or 2 using them to light the shot for you. I think wide angle video lighting looks better that way. Separates the foreground from the subject.

 

[Arneu]

@ronscuba
Oh, the other one is their beam angle is quoted on land, so there is a stark reduction in the water. The 15000 light claims 160*, but in testing it gave 80*, so make sure you have that factored in for shadows. That was a surprising one when I dove with it.

Whoa.. I was just about to order two of their Black Molly 3, but this is major. Do you know any information source on their beam angle in water?