Anti-Fogging Treatments for New Masks. (a comparison of techniques)

[dmaziuk]

Sounds reasonable, but I still favor household ammonia...

You don't own a dremel, I take it?

 

[stuartv]

So, I have a question that's been on my mind for a while and comes from early on in this thread.

I recently bought an Atomic Sub-frame mask that has removable lenses. Does this mask not need the usual burn/scrub treatments that my frameless mask needed? It was stated way at the beginning that only frameless masks need this treatment if I remember correctly. I haven't had a chance to dive this mask yet and haven't done anything to the lenses, yet so now I'm wondering if I should (other than the normal Sea Gold drops, of course).

I have an Atomic Subframe ARC that I put through the whole process. Now that I know what I know, I would put it through the dishwasher and then go dive it. If it fogs, then I would consider putting ammonia just inside it, for the inside of the lenses.

Mine appears to be undamaged. But, from the other 2 masks that disintegrated, I will not be doing a full soak on any mask any more and am a bit reluctant to use any ammonia at all on a mask that is not frameless.

 

[lowviz]

@dmaziuk,

I've owned at least one ever since my teenage years. Have more than one right now. -One of the most useful tools ever made.

If you go back through these endless posts you will see that a Dremel with a felt cylinder and (the proper) toothpaste was one of my test standards.

Moving on:

I'm presently all wonked-out over how household ammonia nanostructures a glass surface. I first found it nearly unbelievable that a less than perfect glass surface would be better than a perfectly flat, featureless, plane glass surface for both total light transmission and anti-reflection properties.

However, a nanostructured glass surface appears to allow both a huge area for hydroxylation and a graded transition from one refractive index to another.

 

[Compressor]

Hey guys: If you don't like my answer, you can move on.
It's worked for me. So I gave my suggestions as well as stating that other solutions are good too.
I don't need a physical chemistry degree to know what works and what does not.
I also don't need an electron microscope to see if there is any damage.

Please chill out.

 

[Umuntu]

I have an Atomic Subframe ARC that I put through the whole process. Now that I know what I know, I would put it through the dishwasher and then go dive it. If it fogs, then I would consider putting ammonia just inside it, for the inside of the lenses.

Mine appears to be undamaged. But, from the other 2 masks that disintegrated, I will not be doing a full soak on any mask any more and am a bit reluctant to use any ammonia at all on a mask that is not frameless.

Is it just the plastic parts that are vulnerable to the ammonia ? Is the silicone mask structure ammonia tolerant ?

The reason I ask is because I remove the plastic parts from my masks and install a DIY (non-adjustable) elastic strap, so if it's just the plastic then it's not as much of a concern.

 

[Umuntu]

a Dremel with a felt cylinder and (the proper) toothpaste

Toothpaste ... that's the polishing paste right there ... and a whole new use for my Dremel !

If you go back through these endless posts

I missed that earlier post

 

[a878bob]

I left the mask box open to air. And hung the strap over the edge, helped to keep the position in the box level.

 

[dmaziuk]

@dmaziuk,
I've owned at least one ever since my teenage years. Have more than one right now. -One of the most useful tools ever made.

:sigh: humour is such a subjective thing.

 

[lowviz]

humour is such a subjective thing.

IKR. I'm a totally literal (littoral?) sort...

 

[lowviz]

Hey guys: If you don't like my answer, you can move on.
It's worked for me. ...//...

Your answer about fine sand scrubbing happens to fit into the growing analysis of this issue. I see your observation as quite valuable to determining an answer to mask fogging. It appears that clean glass-on-glass abrasion produces a rather unusual resurfacing pattern. It isn't what one would call a 'scratch'. It appears to be a microstructuring of the surface. True abrasives such as Scotch Brite are on a totally higher level. Observations like yours have added greatly to this thread. We are clearly nearing the end and are trying to digest all this and come up with a simple rational explanation/procedure to eliminating mask fogging.

Please chill out.

Apart from the occasional swats that we take at each other, I see nothing that concerns me or requires a 'chill'.