The well intended but misleading information is starting to accumulate. Lets clarify a few things.
AL 80s hold 77 cu ft and tend to be relatively inexpensive - $180-$200. They don't rust, but they do corrode so if you have salt water trapped in the valve that gets blown into the tank during the fill, you still have a problem. Same with a really wet air fill. The only plus is that the oxidation process with aluminum is somewhat self sealing, but if you have actual water in the tank, that won't make any difference.
Worthington X7-100s hold 100 cu ft at 3442 psi. They do have the potential to rust internally, but if you are using good quality (properly dry) gas, the tank will go years before any flash rust forms to the point it needs to be removed. Tumbling is common every 5 to 10 years but is not a big deal nor is it very expensive. The idea is to remove any flash rust before it builds up to the point it obscures the surface of the tank and/or collects moisture and promotes pitting.
Steel tanks do cost more $300-350.
An AL 80 weighs 31 pounds while an X7-100 weighs 33, but the AL 80 is 4 pounds positive when empty while the X7-100 is 2.5 pounds negative. So you can remove 6.5 pounds of weight compared to what you use with an AL80 - an overall savings in weight carried of 4.5 pounds.
Both steel and aluminum tanks will need a hydro test every 5 years.
One often heard concern with the 3442 psi steel tanks is the concern that you may not be able to get a full fill on a boat etc. However an x7-100 will hold the following:
3442 psi = 100 cu ft
3300 psi = 95.9 cu ft
3000 psi = 87.1 cu ft
2800 psi = 81.34 cu ft
2650 psi = 77 cu ft
So in effect, to do worse than a fully filled AL 80 you'd need to be underfilled to less than 2650 psi. More to the point, if a boat's comressor can only manage 3000 psi, the AL80 will cool to about 2800 psi (71.9 cu ft) while the x7-100 will hold 10 more cu ft at the same pressure.