Alkin W31 Compressor Operation Questions

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realdiver7

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I posted this under "Compressors," but did not get any reply (maybe because the post number was 666!), so I'm trying it here.

Hello everyone....just bought an Alkin W31 electric 3 h.p. compressor, and have a few questions:

1. The fill whip flows air when the air flow handle is in the down position, and the flow stops when the handle is in the up position. When I finish filling a cylinder, I shut off the cylinder valve, then the whip air flow handle, and remove the whip from the cylinder. While the whip is shut down and being removed from the cylinder valve, the pressure, of course, starts to rise on the whip gauge. In order to bleed the air out of the whip, I open the whip valve up, but the pressure is quite high by the time I get to bleeding the whip of air pressure. If I don't hang on tight, the whip can blast violently out of my hands, so I've been slowly opening the handle back up to bleed it slowly, but of course, the compressor still runs and air keeps flowing at a greatly reduced pressure.

What is the SAFE and correct procedure, step by step, in order, for attaching, filling, and then removing the standard factory Alkin fill whip?

Can I blow air back into my compressor purifier filter from the cylinder if I turn my cylinder valve on before I open the compressor fill whip?

2. Is it OK to place my O2 supply bottle within 3 feet of the compressor and my breaker box, without worrying about SAFETY issues? My setup is in the garage with a fan running (where I park), with my compressor air intake and filter on the OUTSIDE of the garage to pump in fresh air from the outside.

3. When I opened my air purifier filter for the first time, I noticed the following:

a) Outside large diameter filter cylinder is filled with approx. 98% white dessicant
and approx. 2% black charcoal.

b) Inside small diameter filter cylinder is filled with approx. 98% black charcoal and
approx. 2% white dessicant.

c) There is some sort of packing material that looks like cotton that has been
cut. What is it, and where can I buy sheets to cut?

Are the two filter components (dessicant and charcoal) supposed to mixed together a little like this?

Does anyone have step-by-step instructions on how to repack the filter?

On the bottom of the large diameter outside cylinder, does the packing material go in first, or does the round metal disc go in first when looking at the cylinder from the bottom?

4. My fresh air intake and pure O2 intake are on a 12 ft. hose leading from the outside of my garage to my mixing stick. Will a hose that long cause "friction loss" or any problems that may make the compressor work harder, heat up more, and/or pump air slower? The hose from my mixing stick to the compressor is about 4 ft. long.

I have done a lot of research on this compressor, but sometimes the wisdom and knowledge of those who are experienced is much better than other ways of learning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
I posted this under "Compressors," but did not get any reply (maybe because the post number was 666!), so I'm trying it here.

Hello everyone....just bought an Alkin W31 electric 3 h.p. compressor, and have a few questions:

1. The fill whip flows air when the air flow handle is in the down position, and the flow stops when the handle is in the up position. When I finish filling a cylinder, I shut off the cylinder valve, then the whip air flow handle, and remove the whip from the cylinder. While the whip is shut down and being removed from the cylinder valve, the pressure, of course, starts to rise on the whip gauge. In order to bleed the air out of the whip, I open the whip valve up, but the pressure is quite high by the time I get to bleeding the whip of air pressure. If I don't hang on tight, the whip can blast violently out of my hands, so I've been slowly opening the handle back up to bleed it slowly, but of course, the compressor still runs and air keeps flowing at a greatly reduced pressure.

Why are you bleeding down the whip?

4. My fresh air intake and pure O2 intake are on a 12 ft. hose leading from the outside of my garage to my mixing stick. Will a hose that long cause "friction loss" or any problems that may make the compressor work harder, heat up more, and/or pump air slower? The hose from my mixing stick to the compressor is about 4 ft. long.

If you are concerned about the pressure entering your compressor inlet you can check it with a vacuum gauge. Add a small port close inlet. The gauge should remain at )" of vacuum. If you are pulling a vacuum you need to find out why. To test you can disconnect the remote filter for a short period and observe the gauge. This should give you a clue about where any restriction might be. The local AutoParts will sell vacuum gauges.


Tobin
 
I bleed the whip down so I won't blast up to 4500 psi of 32% mix into a cylinder all at once; so I can fill the cylinder slowly. I guess I could not bleed the whip down, let the pressure build up, attach the whip to another cylinder that needs filling, and open the whip up slowly. The only time I would need to bleed the whip then would be when I shut down the compressor completely.

I don't believe I'm pulling a vacuum as the fill rate seems to be OK, but thanks for the advice.
 
I bleed the whip down so I won't blast up to 4500 psi of 32% mix into a cylinder all at once; so I can fill the cylinder slowly.

Connect the whip and pressurize the tank slowly via the valve on the compressor, no need to bleed down before you connect the whip.

The only time I would need to bleed the whip then would be when I shut down the compressor completely.

If your compressor lacks a priority valve I'd recommend leaving the whip pressurized, unless it's a potential safety hazard, i.e. the untrained turning valves etc. It will probably bleed down all by itself over night anyway.

You do not want to let your filter media to return to ambient, or cycle filters cans more than is necessary.

I don't believe I'm pulling a vacuum as the fill rate seems to be OK, but thanks for the advice.

The difference between 1 ata and .9ATA is hard to detect without instrumentation. Long runs to remote filters are a common source of reduced inlet density.

Tobin
 
OK, this advice makes good sense.

Thanks.
 
If your concern is high pressure in the hose, how about using the 3 drain /vent valves on the compressor to drain off the moisture and some pressure at the end of the tank fill. It will take a little time for the pressure to build back up .
Jim Breslin
 
Thanks Jim. I thought of that and will use if needed.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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