Air 2 DIY service - Lessons Learned

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I definitely did separate both parts of the air barrel and had free access to the orifice, which should have just been able to be unscrewed. I had the manual and several photos and schematics, which told me the part should have been able to be unscrewed. Unfortunately the orifice was completely stuck in the tube and could not be unscrewed, either with the correct sized allen key or an ez-out. I was left with no alternative but to cut the plastic orifice up with a dremel grinder. The stem and popet were damaged by the ez-out.
 
I'm having a bit of trouble following you. The poppet/seat/spring etc. should be in one half of the barrel, and the orifice should be in the other half of the barrel. If the two halves of the barrel are separated, then using a drill, easy out, allen key, etc. on the orifice should not have affected the poppet at all.

Could you post a picture or two so we can have a better understanding of the issue?

TIA

Couv
 

These are the three views from the various schematics of the Air 2. The colored one I think illustrates my point. You can see in that diagram the orifice is screwed in to the poppet/stem end of the air barrel. This is not shown as part of this assembly in the other two illustrations. So having separated the 2 haves of the air barrel, the orifice remained screwed in to the poppet/stem barrel, thus when the ezout was screwed into the orifice, the end of it protruded on to the poppet and pressed the stem back into the barrel breaking the top of the stem off.
 
......It looks like I'm going to be taking an AIR 2 apart in the near future.
 
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......It looks like I'm going to be taking an AIR 2 apart in the near future.

OK, my memory was playing tricks on me, but now that I've had a chance to do a bit of hands on work, I have a better understanding of PC's problem and why it led to a damaged poppet.
Usually, when you disassemble the two parts of the air barrel, the orifice comes out:




If the orifice is stuck in the air barrel, from now on I'll remember to first torque down the nut (item 1) to give the parts more clearance, then use the largest Easy Out possible to extract the persistent orifice. Going back in, lube all the threads to make life easier next time.

While getting a handle on this issue, I had a problem getting consistent cracking pressure. After flipping, then changing the seat, I took everything apart again and had a close look at some of the other parts in the linkage. The washer (item 2) was deformed, and I also replaced the insert (item 4) as it had a bit of a groove in the area that the lever acts on.

Neither of these parts are included in the service kits, and not called for as annual replacements.



......more lessons learned. :)

BTW, thanks for the fine diagrams PC, please let us know how your project is going.

Couv
 
I have never heard of a scubapro ari2 with a plastic orifice. Nor can I see how a compatible orifice would become so hard to remove. Could it be that someone used a clone orifice that was not compatible?
 
I have never heard of a scubapro ari2 with a plastic orifice. Nor can I see how a compatible orifice would become so hard to remove. Could it be that someone used a clone orifice that was not compatible?

Unfortunately, SP has gone to a plastic orifice in the AIR 2. I think that silliness started with the 4th generation.
This is one of the reasons, IMO that the 3rd gen was the best.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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