AGA, looks somewhat fragile?

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FFMDiver

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Got my new AGA mask today...stoked.
But I have to say, compared to the Poseidon the components look somewhat fragile.
At the same time, the fit & cracking pressure seems much better than the poseidon - which is what had hoped for. Can any AGA owners tell me what to look out for besides scratching the lens such as weak points etc? Thank you.
 
Scratches are not a big deal, but they tend to disappear when wet<G>. And if I remember right a new faceplate's only about $35.00. The mask's not fragile at all, I beat the living daylights out of one for ten years without any issues at all. I'm sure that you'll enjoy it. Did you get the overpressure model? If so, try out a latex hood sometime.
 
FFMDiver:
Got my new AGA mask today...stoked.
But I have to say, compared to the Poseidon the components look somewhat fragile.
At the same time, the fit & cracking pressure seems much better than the poseidon - which is what had hoped for. Can any AGA owners tell me what to look out for besides scratching the lens such as weak points etc? Thank you.

Probably the most important thing is the adjustment. If you improperly adjust the straps you can tear out the lugs that the buckles are attached to. NEVER drop your elbows. Always pull the straps, starting with the jaw straps first, then the temple straps, by pulling the tags to the rear, as if you're putting your fists behind your head. Note that the elbows will go up, not down. Don't over tighten the top strap. Always start with loose straps, adjust as I just indicated. If you feel that you need to pull the top strap, start by pulling down on the back of the head harness first. You need the strap to pull the mask back on to your face. If you over tighten the top strap, it will pull the mask up resulting in jaw fatigue and the feeling that the mask is buoyant or that it wants to come up and off of your face. Some people will suggest weights, I'm not a fan of them, don't think they're necessary when the mask is properly adjusted.

Oh, and don't pull the valve stem out without knowing how to return it properly into the regulator. You can damage the regulator body if it's not put back together correctly.


Let me know how your first dives go. I'd suggest you spend a fair amount of time in the pool first. Come up with a bailout procedure, practice doff and donning and clearing the mask. You'll want this to be easy and confortable, even more so, if you're diving in cold water. There are some more things to know if you're diving in very cold water.

Good luck and be careful.
 
The above advise is very good. Most important is to pull straight back towards the back of your head on the straps. Don't pull out or sideways on them. Also the rubber is a little more durable than the silicone masks, so use extra care on it. I would take the regulator exhaust assembly apart after every dive to get the water out, it can trap and hold water.

Brent
 
I did a breakdown of the internal stage. Very interesting - a lot of plastic components.
The first second Ive seen with a main spring for the seat and then another as a shock absorber for the seat when it comes off the cone. Is that because of the greater volume being pushed out during inhale? Thanks again.
 
I couldn't break one (dry-land version, Interspiro, identical except for faceplate) with 12 years of abuse as a firefighter, and believe me I tried. Then we switched to Scott, and I have broken those. <shrugs>

All the best, James
 
Might want to add an OTS Valve to the faceplate to breath ambient air on the boat. Nice feature. Sorry I can't remember the name of the valve but it opens and closes by twisting it open or shut. Better than the Gill valve. I added one and it is sweet.
 
FFMDiver:
I did a breakdown of the internal stage. Very interesting - a lot of plastic components.
The first second Ive seen with a main spring for the seat and then another as a shock absorber for the seat when it comes off the cone. Is that because of the greater volume being pushed out during inhale? Thanks again.

There are two different springs in the second stage. The large one is the counter pressure spring that seals the sealing disk. The smaller spring in the valve stem is the main spring that controls cracking pressure on inhalation.

I wouldn't recommend you disassemble the reg unless you've taken a course on it, there are some adjustments you have to make and then you'll need to test it to insure that it's within range.

Do you have a demand or a positive pressure reg?
 
"I wouldn't recommend you disassemble the reg unless you've taken a course on it, there are some adjustments you have to make and then you'll need to test it to insure that it's within range."

I have demand.
"within range" sounds like a job for my magnehelic?
Does the AGA course go into the stem service?
 

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