Advice on old MK2/R380

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

A bit of a clarification, while the yoke nut is a little messed up there is NO reason to replace it. It simply holds the yoke on. Any leaking from that area is from 1 of 2 reasons, a bad tank oring or a damaged face on the main body of the reg.

This isn't accurate, sorry about that herman. On SP regs the yoke retainer is a bolt which includes the sealing face, so excessive corrosion on that bolt will cause it to not seal correctly against the tank o-ring. However, I've seen many of these retainers in pretty rough shape and it's easy to simply sand flat the sealing face and it works fine. Usually the problem is chrome flaking off. So in that sense, it's very likely that there is no reason to replace it.
 
@topher10 don't underestimate the Scubapro SPG, that is a brass and glass gauge. The gauges look in good condition, so you should be able to get $25-$35 for them on eBay if you don't want them.
 
This isn't accurate, sorry about that herman. On SP regs the yoke retainer is a bolt which includes the sealing face, so excessive corrosion on that bolt will cause it to not seal correctly against the tank o-ring. However, I've seen many of these retainers in pretty rough shape and it's easy to simply sand flat the sealing face and it works fine. Usually the problem is chrome flaking off. So in that sense, it's very likely that there is no reason to replace it.

Oops, you are right, worked on too many USD and Sherwoods. :)
Still, like you said, you can still sand it back to an operable condition.
 
Since we still have some action in this thread, I thought I would update. I spent a couple of hours trying to get my large adjustable wrench around the yolk nut, but I never felt good about it. Then I started researching the correct tools, and came to the choice of spending about 100$ in tools and parts kits, or just bring it to a nearby LDS that I feel pretty good about. I called and they said it would be about $110 all in to service the MK2 and R380. When I brought it in he suggested I recycle the SPG, because as @ams511 noted above its good quality and still seems to be working.

Since most of you think it can be resurrected and used, I felt that a pro would do a better job getting it back into shape and making sure its usable. I was also worried that I might break something trying to open a reg that might not have been serviced for years. If I get it back with a clean bill of health, I hope to take over maintenance myself. I also plan to take the R190 octopus apart and try to service it myself since I could potentially use it but don't really need it to work. If all goes well I might actually try to dive it and see if I can tell the difference relative to my current regs (DiveRite XT1/XT2). The vast majority of my diving is Florida panhandle wrecks, shallower than 100ft, and I expect the MK2 is up to the task. The goal is to have a reliable backup or pony reg system to bring along with me when appropriate.

Thank again to everyone for the advice.
 
The first regulator I ever worked on was a MK-2. Afterwards I thought to myself, is this it?

The best friend for a DIYer is Vintage Double Hose. Bryan, the owner, has manuals posted and sells the parts. A MK-2 kit is $9.00 and he may be able to set you up with a kit for the R-380. A second source is Northeast Scuba Supply.

I would not use an adjustable wrench around the yoke nut. If you don't want to buy from scubatools then go to Lowes, Ace, or Sears with the second stage and try to find a socket that works. Regulator repair is a hobby in and of itself. You can go all in or take it a step at a time.
 
Last edited:
The first regulator I ever worked on was a MK-2. Afterwards I thought to myself, is this it?

The best friend for a DIYer is Vintage Double Hose. Bryan, the owner, has manuals posted and sells the parts. A MK-2 kit is $9.00 and he may be able to set you up with a kit for the R-380. A second source is Northeast Scuba Supply.

I would not use an adjustable wrench around the yoke nut. If you don't want to buy from scubatools then go to Lowes, Ace, or Sears with the second stage and try to find a socket that works. Regulator repair is a hobby in and of itself. You can go all in or take it a step at a time.

I have never found off the shelf sockets that are thin enough or short enough to fit in a yoke of most regs. I have cut a number of them down to fit but without a lathe it's not a job you want to do.
 
Since we still have some action in this thread, I thought I would update. I spent a couple of hours trying to get my large adjustable wrench around the yolk nut, but I never felt good about it.

The newer SP yokes seem to be shaped in such a way that it is very difficult to get an adjustable wrench on the yoke retainer. They kind of slope up and get in the way so basically you need to use the socket. My MK2 is like this.
 
I have been thinking about a new tool to remove most yokes, I will get back on that soon.
 
I have been thinking about a new tool to remove most yokes, I will get back on that soon.

That would be great. I have the scubatools 1" socket and it fits some SP regulators but not others. I'm not sure why. It seems just a smidgeon tight.
 

Back
Top Bottom