a570is settings for shooting in RAW

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TheStebes

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So I finally got myself a camera... went with the canon a570is after quite a bit of research. I've been reading up on settings for underwater shots... and I keep seeing a wide array of opinions. Some people argue that it is just a matter of properly setting up and framing the shot - and then to just use auto settings. There are numerous suggestions on aperture, flash, and other settings.

What I can't seem to figure out, if you go with the hack to take RAW pics, then what settings would be recommended? It seems like the goal here is to give the most flexibility when taking photos. From what I have read, it's almost as if you don't have to get everything perfect as you can correct it later on using something like photoshop or picasa2. Do you have to pick the settings as usual? Can you shoot in auto with any hopes of getting a decent shot? Perhaps I'm missing something.

Can someone please point me in the right direction for taking pictures with CHDK/RAW? If anyone has any suggestions for shooting with stock settings or in auto mode, that would be much appreciated as well.

Thanks,
Scott
 
Any help, I'm trying to get things figured out for my vacation next week :D
 
The only reason I am interested in RAW is that I believe I can use it to advantage to extend the exposure latitude of the camera so I don't get completely blown out highlights when using my super wide angle Inon fisheye lens. All of the post image tomfoolery just does not otherwise do anything for me. I like for my pictures to accurately reflect what I see, a little clean up is fine but it is easy to go to far and then they are no longer real or reflective of reality.

I seriously doubt that RAW require different "settings" from standard JPEG files.

When you say "settings" do you mean MENU settings or F stop and shutter and mode? There is always more than one way to skin a cat. Example, F8 at 1/125 sec is the same equivlent exposure as F5.6 at 1/250 sec but one will better stop action and the other will have reduced depth of field (both good and bad). Folks who like to take macro stuff need greater depth of field which is critical at close focus. Wide angle snap shooters like me prefer faster shutter speeds since wide angle lenses have nearly infinite depth of field by their physical geometry.

Your going on vacation next week with a NEW camera--lol--just use it as it is.

N
 
The main advantage of RAW is correcting white balance. You still need to be sure to have all the other settings right. If you're just starting out, I'd recommend picking Apperture Priority if the subjects aren't moving too quickly. A lower number will make a more shallow the depth of field (blurrier background). The advantage is that moving objects in the center focal area may be a bit more crisp. For faster moving objects, set it to Shutter Priority with a setting of 1/100 or faster and just shoot away. WAY over-simplifying it but given you're on vacation next week, I wanted to cut to the chase. Hope this help!
 
I've been disappointed in RAW for the hakked canons. I love it for my XTi, as it allows me to tweak the WB nicely and I have one less thing to worry about. Perhaps it is the software I use, but adjusting WB on the hakked cameras rarely, if ever, results in something I'm happy with. In a way, that is a good thing, as it forces me to learn setting WB manually. I'm the opposite of Nemrod, I like to shoot AV, and get my depth of field as narrow as possible. If that's your bag too, I'd start with an AV setting of 5, and work my way up or down from there. ISO is probably best for beginners at 200 or so, and WB should be done manually every 10 feet or so, or set to the fishy icon for ease. Use your flash and diffuser, and try to be as still as possible when you pull the trigger (remember 1/2 press = focus)

Don't forget that you have a fair video mode on that cam as well. It burns memory pretty fast, but it does a good job for what you paid for it.

-h
 
I agree with Choyster. And, as far as shooting with the CHDK hack is concerned, in my experience, the CRW files produced are better than the corresponding JPG files in about 98% of the shots. There are occasional exceptions.
 
Av is an Auto mode. It will provide exactly the same technical exposure as will Tv (also an Auto mode) assuming no compensation factor, one selects for F-stop, the other for shutter. The choice allows you to place priority on one or the other but the exposure will be the SAME. Full Auto or Program will usually give a similar technical exposure but in this case the camera adjust both shutter and F-stop (lens opening). Manual mode allows you to take control of both.

A lot of which mode(s) you use depend upon if you have an external strobe (and how it functions)
and the types of photographs, macro, snaps, wide angle, fisheye etc that you enjoy or if your doing natural light--no strobe. Generally with "normal" and macro and telephoto lenses as you move closer and or go to a wider lens opening depth of field (the in-focus zone) decreases and is therefore critical and can be used to advantage sometimes to isolate a subject from a distracting background as an example. Wide angle lenses and fisheye types due to the physics of optics generally have great depth of field, in some cases the depth of field may extend from the front element to infinity. I usually try to avoid wide open (f2.6/2.8 on the 570IS) because it gets a tiny bit soft with my fisheye on the edges and it wants to vignette ever so slightly in one corner--sometimes.

JFYI, Shooting in Av or Tv, internal flash on or off you can adjust/compensate up to plus or minus two F-stops. If shooting with an external strobe you may also select camera flash to manaul and set flash to 1/3, 2/3 or max and of course you can also select OFF for natrual light.

I like Av mode because it is one click away from Manual on the mode dial allowing me to use an auto mode for flash and then jump into manual when I want to especially for natural light or fill flash using my Sekonic Marine light meter for exposure info.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll try and keep things simple and just shoot as it is without the hack. Maybe I'll play with it down there if I can steal someone's wireless internet :eyebrow:.

From what I've been reading, these settings seem to be a good place to start: leave it on Av, use the underwater white balance, iso 80, macro, f-stop 2.8-5ish, and vary the flash.

I'm really new to all of this, if the pics don't turn out alright the first time it's not the end of the world.

Scott
 

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