10W LED light with Delrin canister

[BB1]

That's awesome!

One question on the canister o-rings. Why 2 barrel mounted o-rings rather than the ig o-ring between lid and can??

 

[350xfire]

Very nice!

 

[ToddK]

That's awesome!

One question on the canister o-rings. Why 2 barrel mounted o-rings rather than the ig o-ring between lid and can??

Good question. At first, I wanted to ensure that I was getting a great seal, and getting some redundancy in case there was a small fiber or something sitting on the o-ring. Of the four o-ring locations on the light (canister lid, lighthead glass, and the two glands, this is the only seal that is routintely opened- everything else is static. On the flip side, since there are 4 fail points, I don't know how valuable it is to make one of the points super great.

One downside to the barrel o-rings is that the groove for mounting them reduces the amount of space in the lid to mount the switch & gland, which is really at a premium. I do like the fact that the o-rings are very well secured, and I don't have to worry about them falling out.

 

[lucca brassi]

Very nice canister lamp - special for traveling .

On your place I put only full sealed toggle switch IP68 instead of that one (if you don't have problem with space )

switch-spst-ip68/dp/1138735

Best Regards

 

[350xfire]

Very nice canister lamp - special for traveling .

On your place I put only full sealed toggle switch IP68 instead of that one (if you don't have problem with space )

switch-spst-ip68/dp/1138735

Best Regards

Lucca, why do that when you can buy 3-4 non IP68 for the price of an IP68? You flood the light, you replace it with another one!

 

[lucca brassi]

Try one and you will find out why .This swich is like marcedes .

 

[ToddK]

Very nice canister lamp - special for traveling .

On your place I put only full sealed toggle switch IP68 instead of that one (if you don't have problem with space )

switch-spst-ip68/dp/1138735

Best Regards

Very nice switch, but you are right, I don't have the space for that.

 

[naimis]

Nice work! Good luck with that Dean's connector . I used those for my first couple of lights, but quickly decided they were far too difficult to separate. Second try was using spade connectors, but those didn't stay on the wire for long (though tinning the wires before crimping helped). I think this time around I'm going to try EC3 (e-flite connector 3) connectors. Like the Dean's, they're made for RC models and high current. Bulkier, yeah, but hopefully a lot easier to disconnect for charge cycles.

I looked at molex, too, but their connectors aren't really designed to be repeatedly disconnected and reconnected over and over like you would to charge the pack.

 

[Packhorse]

Very nice build indeed and a great write up too!

My only comment would be that with a Delrin light head you are trapping a lot of heat inside.
You can probably get away with it with this build but if you were to use a more powerful LED you may want to consider an aluminium head. Problem here is that it then becomes more expensive to make which is why I choose to use modified heads instead. The W300 ultra fire is a great choice as is the classic Maglite.

 

[nirvana996]

Nicely done.
Andy
Ontario , Canada