Trip Report Cozumel Trip Report: April 1-10, 2021

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Trailboss123

Divemaster
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
2,726
Reaction score
4,197
Location
Pacific Northwest, USA
# of dives
1000 - 2499
I had a business trip planned to Texas the end of March and decided to take advantage of being so close to Cozumel from Houston and pop down for a week. I was just in Cozumel this past December with my wife. Trip report here: Trip Report - Cozumel- December 20-31, 2020

I used up some United Airlines’ frequent flyer miles and had a free flight from Houston to CZM and return. Business travel covered my flight from Portland, OR to Houston and back.

I touched down in Cozumel 20 minutes early at 12:20pm. I breezed through immigration, my checked bag of dive gear was already on the carousel, I grabbed it, walked through customs and out to the shuttle counter. The shuttle to my downtown hotel was less expensive if paid for in pesos vs dollars by a few bucks. I am having a brain fade right now on what it cost, but I think it was around 80 pesos ($4).

I waited in the van with another couple for about 5 minutes, until we had a few more people and off we went and I was dropped at my hotel- Casa Mexicana. I booked through their website and actually chose to book and reserve at their sister hotel (Suites Bahia) in order to have a kitchenette. There is not enough business on the island yet and they have shuttered Suites Bahia and the other sister hotel (Suites Colonial) for the time being. Same thing as when I was here in December. I was transferred to Casa Mexicana, but they honored my less expensive rate, although I did lose my kitchenette since Casa Mexicana doesn’t have them. Total paid for 9 night’s stay is $500 with taxes. I have a nice king size bedroom with balcony and a mini fridge. For those unfamiliar, the rooms also have safes large enough for a 16 inch computer and any other valuables. The historic breakfast buffet is no longer. Who knows if buffets will ever make a return. Breakfast is included and ordered from a menu, plated and brought to you between the hours of 7am and 11am. There are tables located on the lobby/pool level where breakfast is served. For people with early morning start times for diving, it can be a bit of a crap shoot whether you can order and get served and eat in time. I recommend ordering through the folks at the lobby the night before if you want to be sure.

I spent the rest of my afternoon getting unpacked, getting a much-needed haircut, checking in and finishing up paperwork at the dive shop and getting dinner at Casa Cuzamil.

The original plan was to dive with Blue XT Sea, who I have been with for the past 7 years. As you may have read on Scubaboard, Christi decided to sell off her assets and close up business. I knew this was a high probability some time ago and was not unprepared. She offered to kindly transfer me over to either of two other operators she recommended or I could make my own arrangements with whomever. Knowing this day might come, I dived last Christmas day with Tres Pelicanos (affectionately known as 3 P’s by many here on the board). I wanted to get a feel for them and had a good experience. So, I booked my 8 days of morning boat dives with them.

When I got in last Thursday afternoon, we had the typical east winds blowing at about 10mph, but the forecast was predicting an overnight shift of winds from the north at 15-20mph. Sure enough, before I settled back into the hotel after dinner, they had shifted. I woke up Friday morning prepared to dive, but didn’t think we’d get out. Sure enough, the wind was raging from the north and one look told me I would be having a relaxed day without diving. So, no one got out Friday, but everything shifted again late Friday afternoon and we were back on for diving yesterday morning.

I walked over to 3P’s and arrived at 7:40am and they shuttled me and 1 other person down to the marina and their dive boat Skinny Shark. It was a quick drive down to the marina since there are still no cruise ships in port. The morning was spent diving in 79 degree crystal clear blue water with over 100 feet of visibility. We dived Santa Rosa wall and Punta Tunich. There was barely any current at all. Super chill and pretty dives. Had a very nice extended encounter with a smallish turtle and all of the other usual suspects. We had the entire reef to ourselves on both dives. Just me, Axel (here for a month from Arizona) and the owner of 3P’s, Steve, as our dive guide. It was a great start to the trip. After diving, I got cleaned up, took a little rest and then a late lunch a Burrito Gorditos before making my way back to the bar at Casa Cuzamil where I spent the next 5 hours watching the Final 4 basketball games with a bunch of other ex-pats.

This morning was equally beautiful diving. We dived the Cedral Mountains and Chankanab Bolones. Today was just me, a couple from Florida and Steve. Water temp was still 79 degrees and visibility was even better, which was tough to imagine. Steve found a pair of good sized nurse sharks huddled up together and tucked in deep under a shallow overhang. It was a nice find. I switched to my 5mm wetsuit today, as I found myself getting cold yesterday in my neutrally buoyant Lavacore.

I will continue to make posts throughout the week. Oh, almost forgot. There is a restaurant downtown that I know a lot of people frequent called Cuatro Tacos. It is a couple doors down from the Lobster Shack and the Thirsty Cougar. They have closed, but will be reopening (this week I believe) with a different concept. Instead of tacos, they will be doing tostadas. It will be called Bendita Tostadas. If they do open, I will check it out and report on it.

I could not be happier with my experience with 3P's so far. Very efficient and fun group. I have been diving 100CF aluminum tanks with 32% Nitrox. Dive times running 70-75 minutes- could go longer from an air standpoint, but that is plenty and I am ready to get out at that point.

Lastly, the island is pretty quiet right now. Apparently it was busier last week with lots of Mexican tourists coming over from the mainland for spring break. Not a lot of dive boats out and no one seems to be running afternoon dives at the moment, just not enough demand. Also, with the rotating reef closures, the month of April has the following dive sites closed and getting a rest: Dalila, Palancar Gardens and Palancar Horseshoe - (Palancar Bricks and Caves are still open- so not cut off completely from the reef system down south).
 
@Trailboss123 , thanks for the on-going report. I'll be diving with the 3P gang 5/20 - 5/29 while...wait for it...you're on the Juliet...tada :acclaim:. Dude, someday we're going to cross paths even if it's just in the airport. :)
 
Tremendous!
Enjoy your dive and the trip mate. Take good care.

Hopefully I can do some dives in Thailand later this yr.
 
Great to hear another diver diving. Appreciate the detail; sad to hear about the buffet. As a chunky person, some buffets are amongst the grieved casualties of the pandemic for me.

Richard.

Given that spread from surface contact is not the threat that was initially feared last March when people were afraid to even bring in food from the store or packages from the door, maybe buffets can return one day with a few modifications.
 
Thanks for the trip report. Glad to hear burritos gorditos is still open, they are my favorite post dive, pre-nap meal.
 
Monday, April 5th:

Today was spent diving Palancar Caves and La Francesa. I felt chilled from the get-go on Dive 1 and just couldn’t get warm throughout the dive. Did some nice swim-throughs and there were definitely more boats out and about today, but that is also typical of being down in the Palancar area early morning. Had one diver in our group that we kept having to chase down and bring back, as she would get confused whenever we got close to other groups and would wander off with them. Became a fun running joke back on the boat and she took the ribbing well. I haven’t checked my computer for water temp on both dices, but the dive on La Francesa felt warmer and more comfortable. I spent a lot of time hanging out with the myriads of Jaw Fish in the sand on that site. Also, lots of various Trunk Fish in small schools. We had 6 divers on the boat today + Steve. A nice group and a nice morning.

Forgot to mention in the first post that I also walked into the International Hospital and within 15 seconds set up an appointment for this Friday to get my COVID test that is required for reentry back to the USA. They said I would have hard copy and email results within an hour of the test. So, pretty painless so far. Will update how that all unfolds afterward and it looks like we have a group for a night dive on Wednesday.
 
Enjoy and make sure you have an extra layer of thermal protection for the night dive.
 
TFS and how would you rate the condition of the reef? Looking forward to diving there with the family in May.
 
Tuesday April 6th
Woke up to beautiful skies, light breezes and the calmest seas yet. Our first dive was at San Francisco wall. Water temps have held steady at 79 degrees. San Francisco is a beautiful wall dive when the first 20 minutes are spent on the deeper side and slowly move up the wall. I did notice that the stony coral disease has impacted this wall though. Many previous purple corals are now brown and white. I have not seen this elsewhere. Once we started making our way to the top of the wall in 38 feet we came eye ball to eye ball (literally) with a gorgeous spotted eagle ray. He decided to hang out with us and was happy with our company. He eventually took off, only to swoop back around in a 360 and feed in the sand for conch right in front of us once again. Was an incredibly long and majestic encounter. I was so mesmerized and fearful that anything I would do might cause him to leave, that I kept my camera and video light at bay and didn’t dare turn on my light and cause him to leave and ruin the experience.

Shortly thereafter a very large and old loggerhead turtle came our way and slowly made a close encounter fly by. It was a great end to the dive. The 2nd dive was at Tormentos. As with all of the dives this week, we had negligible to no current. For whatever reason there just is not any current and I have never finned so much in Cozumel. Couple of big lobsters and a very large green moray eel were seen on the dive. Also, lots of schooling triggerfish parading by in a constant flow down in the sand channel.

I decided to have lunch today at K’ooben Laab and see what all of the hype here on the board is all about. I can now be counted among the number of big fans and this restaurant will be on my must places to eat 1-2 times per stay. They do handmade, in-house pasta (6 different varieties to choose from) and another 7 sauces to match however you would like to go about it. They had 3-4 specials including a risotto that someone at another table ordered and was raving about. The salads are amazing. I ended up getting a spinach based “small” salad” that could have easily been a meal in itself combined with the free in-house made bread and tapenade they provide when you sit down. My salad had cucumber, cabbage, radish, carrot, pepitas, yellow bell pepper, heirloom tomatoes, squash, red onion and a house made delicious honey mustard dressing mixed together with that spinach. Balsamic dressing was also an option.

I also chose a pasta dish with tagliatelle noodles and pesto. It was an excellent meal and experience while seated in their rooftop dining area. Cost for pasta dishes run between $4 and $6 and my salad was $3. They have a larger version salad for $4.50. Additionally, they have a nice selection of Mexican white and red wines, soups and some to-go breads and pastries.
It is located on 30th (Also known as Avenida Jose Joaquin Coldwell) and just a few establishments north of Calle 5 Sur.

Definitely on for our night dive tomorrow night after our 2 morning dives. We have 6 divers for the night dive.
Same 6 were set to dive together Thursday morning, so we got together and agreed to push our AM dives to afternoon dives so everyone can sleep in after the late night dives.

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