Trip Report Trip Report: Sea of Cortez with the Gallant Lady and Cabo San Lucas with SeeCreatures, Nov.2020

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FettSolo

Contributor
Messages
282
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Location
Lebanon, NH, USA
# of dives
200 - 499
I just returned a few days ago from a trip to Baja California. I spent one day diving in Cabo San Lucas, then I went on the Nautilus Gallant Lady liveaboard to the Sea of Cortez, and then four more days of diving in CSL.

Why the Sea of Cortez on the Nautilus Gallant Lady?
Last year, I bid in a charity auction on a Nautilus liveboards gift certificate. I ended up paying $650 for this $1,000 certificate (not bad!), and as I had already been with Nautilus to Guadalupe and Socorro, I figured it was time to do their (at the time of booking) only other destination - the Sea of Cortez.

Since the liveaboard is only five nights, I figured I should stick around a couple nights and dive in Cabo San Lucas as well.

Getting There
I used American Airlines miles to book round-trip from Boston to San Jose Del Cabo. On the way there, it was Boston to Dallas, Dallas to SJD. On the way back, it was SJD to LA, then a red-eye to Boston. I ended up in first class on my Dallas to SJD flight so someone could sit with their girlfriend, which was nice since I was originally in economy! If I was in first class and my girlfriend was in economy, I'd have stayed in first class...

As for the dreaded SJD camera housing tax, I was never even asked about a housing. I had the same strategy as my last visit a year ago, which was to appear as innocuous as possible - dive gear was in a duffel bag, housing in a carry-on suitcase and cameras in a normal backpack.

Dive Operator and Boat
Since I had been with Nautilus on two previous trips, I had high expectations! They were certainly met.

The Nautilus Gallant Lady is a lovely boat. It holds 12 divers, but we had only 8, so I had my room to myself. This was only my sixth liveaboard, but definitely my most luxurious experience yet. I think the boat would have felt a little crowded with 12, but with 8 it felt very spacious.

Nautilus has instituted new safety briefings, equipment (fire hoods), and safety hatches (you could tell they had been added on relatively recently) after the Conception fire. They also had new safety rules for Covid-19, with crew wearing masks at all times and hand sanitizer available everywhere. I felt very safe on this boat, especially after having seen on a recent liveaboard trip that not all operators have made post-Conception changes.

The crew was wonderful and I absolutely loved them. My favorite was Juan David, the divemaster. He clearly loved diving and had an infectious enthusiasm for everything underwater.

The food was delicious. My one complaint (which I noted on my feedback form to Nautilus) was I wish there was more Mexican cuisine incorporated, as we were obviously in Mexico and the food there is exquisite. I appreciate eggs Benedict or a nice steak, but I'd rather see chilaquiles or huarache.

As for post-liveaboard: Nautilus owns a dive shop in CSL, SeeCreatures. They offer a complimentary dive before a Nautilus liveaboard trip, and they gave me a 25% discount on dives after the trip. Marie at SeeCreatures organized everything for me, even booking dives for me with another dive shop the one day SeeCreatures was fully booked. All of the staff was SeeCreatures was very personable and professional. At the end of my time there, they even gave me a free t-shirt for myself and a stuffed animal manta for my girlfriend (who wasn't even there!), which I thought was sweet.

The Dives
First, I did two dives with SeeCreatures (1 complimentary and 1 I paid for) prior to the Gallant Lady trip. I was the only guest, which was nice. We went to Land's Arch and Pelican Rock, the two most commonly visited dive sites from CSL. These were both lovely dive sites, minus the sounds of boat motors above. Land's Arch has a shipwreck and sea lions. I especially enjoyed the massive school of sardines at Pelican Rock. I also saw jumping mobulas on the return to the marina, which was awesome.

On the Gallant Lady, I did a total of 16 dives (4/day). That was the maximum offered. I don't think anybody else on board did more than 14, as the others usually skipped the fourth dive.

First day on the Gallant Lady was to the famous Cabo Pulmo. Since it's a national park, local operators had to come pick us up in pangas. The water was very choppy and the Gallant Lady had to be parked the next bay over, so panga rides were anywhere from 15-45 minutes. Dives 1-3 were unimpressive rocky reefs with lots of fish. Dive 4, which was just me and the DM, was 45 minutes with the famous "jack tornado" of CP. That was utterly amazing, and would ultimately be my second favorite dive of the entire trip.

I admit it annoyed me that Nautilus heavily markets this trip with the bull sharks of Cabo Pulmo, yet due to CP's dive site reservation system, we had no guarantee of even visiting the sites known for bull sharks (and ended up seeing none). I know they're wild animals, but when they market Guadalupe with great whites (and you will 100% see them), Socorro with mantas (and you will 100% see them), and then Sea of Cortez with bull sharks (and you may see them on one day of the trip if they happen to be able to visit the appropriate site)... the marketing just felt deceptive in retrospect.

Second day was diving around San Francisco (not the American city, obviously). Dive sites were pretty and had lots of fish, with a few sea lions as well. Since this wasn't a national park, we could use the Gallant Lady's own panga (nicest one I've ever been on, with a wooden floor), it was only a few minutes to each dive site, and we could return to the boat after each dive. This made for a much more comfortable experience than Cabo Pulmo.

Third day was to another national park, Espiritu Santo. This is home to Los Islotes, a sea lion colony. We spent three dives with adorable sea lions that would fly all around us as they nipped at fins, wetsuits, cameras... one even yanked my snorkel out of the mask (was unable to recover it, sadly)! The first dive of the day was my favorite dive of the whole trip, and definitely one of my favorite dives ever. I could have spent days there. Fourth dive was a night dive outside the park.

Fourth day was to La Reina, a beautiful dive site with lots of fish, an impressive wreck, and sea lions. This was a nice cap to the liveaboard trip.

After the liveaboard, I did 10 dives in CSL with SeeCreatures. 2 dives on 11/25, 2 on 11/26, 3 on 11/27, and 3 on 11/28. Unfortunately, due to other divers needing to do their respective liveaboard check-out dives, I usually ended up at Land's End and Pelican's Rock. But both sites are enjoyable for repeat viewings, especially as I frequently saw massive schools of cownose rays flying by (with the occasional mobula mixed in). One day we made it out to the Corridor, which was a welcome change. With the 25% discount, my 10 dives only came out to $315, which is pretty cheap.

Bottom Line
I had a wonderful time on the Nautilus Gallant Lady. The boat itself was great, and I enjoyed the majority of the dives. That being said, I'm not sure if I would return. I think I would prefer to explore the northern Sea of Cortez with Rocio Del Mar.

I also really loved the staff at SeeCreatures, and if I was coming through CSL I would book some dives with them. However, CSL in of itself is definitely not a dive destination, and I would only dive there again if I was coming to/from another liveaboard trip.
 
Nice report! And, it's great to hear that you had a good trip.

Just an FYI... Los Islotes isn't the largest sea lion colony in the Sea of Cortez; it's actually one of the smaller ones according to the population survey numbers I found while researching my book, Dancing with Sea Lions.

Isla San Esteban had the highest sea lion population numbers with around 5,500. Isla San Jorge was second with survey numbers around 3,500. Isla San Pedro Martir had around 1,100. Researchers listed Los Islotes as eleventh out of thirteen with around 400.

Isla San Esteban and Isla San Pedro Martir are on the southern end of the Midriff Islands. Isla San Jorge is on the Sonora side of the northern Gulf of California. For what it's worth, several divers who've done northern Sea of Cortez trips on the Rico Del Mar have told me that one of their stops is Isla San Pedro Martir.

Given their proximity to La Paz, I suspect the sea lions on Los Islotes are visited by more divers and snorkelers than any of the other colonies in the gulf. Visiting Isla San Esteban and Isla San Pedro Martir isn't a day trip. Isla San Jorge is a great place to dive with sea lions, but it's in the neighborhood of twenty-eight miles southeast of Puerto Penasco (Rocky Point).

-AZTinman
 
Nicely detailed summary! What was the water temperature range? Thank you for sharing!
 
Nice report! And, it's great to hear that you had a good trip.

Just an FYI... Los Islotes isn't the largest sea lion colony in the Sea of Cortez; it's actually one of the smaller ones according to the population survey numbers I found while researching my book, Dancing with Sea Lions.

-AZTinman

@AZTinman Thank you for the information! For the record, that tidibit was told to me by the divemaster at Los Islotes... since he had a marine biology degree, you would have thought he'd have been more informed. I'll edit my post.

@Blues Runner water temperature was usually in the high 70s Fahrenheit, occasionally hitting 80 or 81.
 
I've not a clue as to why your dive master would give you inaccurate information. Regardless of the misinformation, Los Islotes is a wonderful place to have the experience of interacting with sea lions.

In my experience, sea lions seem to enjoy doing the snatch & grab thing that you experienced with your snorkel. The first time I witnessed this behavior was when a dive partner had his brand new dive knife yanked right off his leg. I've had them attempt to snatch my underwater camera system out of my hands. Usually, they grab a strobe arm and try to take-off with the system. I dive with the system firmly attached (two separate attachment points) to my BCD harness and the 'thieves' give up pretty quickly when they realize they're dragging me around. I usually don't dive with a snorkel when I expect to be diving with sea lions. Snorkels are easy targets for snatch & grabs.

I'd have to do some digging, but a while back I was reading an article in a major dive publication. The author made a comment about Los Islotes being the northern most location of sea lions in the Sea of Cortez. It's obvious that the author had never done any diving in the northern Gulf of California. Sometimes, I think divers aren't aware that there are lots of areas to scuba dive north of La Paz and/or Loreto. Land vehicle road trips and live aboards will get one into some pretty cool dive locations in the northern gulf... and, large numbers of sea lions are pretty common.

-AZTinman
 
Sea lions bit all over my underwater camera system as well! Definitely the last time I bring a snorkel on a sea lion dive.

Agreed about the northern Sea of Cortez. After this trip to the southern part, I think I would like to explore the north via Rocio del Mar.
 
Nice report! In recent years I've seen the Sea of Cortez and area locations like Cabo San Lucas and Cabo Pulmo getting more attention. It'd be interesting to know how the overall costs of a live-aboard trip there (flights, the trip, etc...) stack up against live-aboard trips to Belize, Roatan, the Bahamas and the Caymans. The sea life is different (it's a different ocean), and there's that something extra special about diving with sea lions, of course.

Just wondering where it 'fits' in the progression of the recreational dive hobby, as people get out and try new things.
 
Thanks! Here's some financial info:

Nautilus Gallant Lady - $2,619 (I paid $350 less due to my gift certificate)
4 days of nitrox on board - $80
Port fees - $65
Extra dive after the pre-liveaboard complimentary dive - $45
10 dives with SeeCreatures after the liveaboard - $315
Round-trip airport transfer - $42
1 hotel night pre-liveaboard - $27
4 hotel nights post-liveaboard - $109

I spent roughly $60-70 total on food for my meals before and after the liveaboard trip (Mexico is cheap, plus I don't drink alcohol). I booked my flights with miles, so the actual cost of those could vary.

By itself, the Nautilus Gallant Lady is expensive. Having the savings due to my gift certificate, and doing all those discounted dives afterwards, made it worth it for me.

But otherwise, something like the Rocio Del Mar might be a more cost-effective choice for the Sea of Cortez (albeit a different section).
 
Good info., thanks! If people compare vs. Caribbean live-aboards for potential trips, a few points may be worth considering...

1.) An Aggressor may offer 25 (Caymans when I went) to 27 (Turks & Cacaos; 26 in Belize with 1 being a Blue Hole dive followed by a land tour) dives vs. the N.G.L.'s 16, but if the N.G.L. uses tenders for diving, that's a different experience. When I was on a Galapagos trip we were offered 20 dives, and I found the added 'experience' of tendering, even done well, adds to the toil of the day. In a nutshell, 4 dives/day tendering was plenty! You mentioned the others usually skipped the 4th dive of the day; on a live-aboard, that's significant. Caribbean live-aboards tend to dive off the main yacht, 2 morning at one site, 2 afternoon and 1 evening/night at a 2nd site (from what I've seen).

My point is, it's an 'apples to oranges' comparison.

2.) Diving a different ocean with different sea life, especially sea lions, is a different experience.

3.) The cost you listed for those post-trip dives with SeeCreatures sounds like an outstanding value.

4.) Aggressor in recent years has had annual '30%+ off' sales over sections of their fleet with specified travel date ranges; this year it was 35% off (their 37th anniversary), so if you can wait for their sale, and go when they offer... Explorer Ventures has periodic specials, too. The week of Black Friday seems to be a good time to live-aboard shop.

Have you done any Caribbean live-aboards? Anything else anyone with that background would want to know, considering this boat?

Oh, thanks for the tips about the camera housing issue at the airport.
 
Yeah, diving with a tender can definitely be tiring. It's weird on this trip because two days are in national parks, which required the use of local operators and their respective pangas (and also meant longer rides). The other two days, we used the significantly nicer N.G.L. panga and rides to dives sites were 5 minutes or less. Since the national park days alternated, it basically meant the schedule changed every day.

The sea lions are awesome and I think the biggest selling point of this trip! More so than the bull sharks of Cabo Pulmo.

Those additional dives were a significant perk, but not something advertised on the website (only the complimentary dive). I would highly recommend e-mailing SeeCreatures in order to secure the discount, as using their online booking form will be at full price. I also would have had to pay an additional 16% if I paid with a credit card for those dives (I paid in pesos in person).

The only Caribbean liveaboards I've been on were Blackbeard's and the Dolphin Dream (which was last month, check out the Bahamas forum for my report!).

1) N.G.L. was significantly more luxurious than both of them (obviously Blackbeard's is "camping at sea", but still). I would imagine it's probably a similar comfort level to an Aggressor.
2) I thought the Bahamas had more beautiful coral (and more coral in general), as many of the Cortez reefs are rocky.
3) Sea of Cortez seemed to have more fish, especially when it came to large schools of fish.

I also can't emphasize enough that Nautilus has clearly invested in making this boat safer since the Conception fire. That meant a lot to me, and I think it's something to keep in mind now when looking at any liveaboard.
 
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