Dive Rite regulator servicing?

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I charge $30 per stage labor plus parts. If you provide a factory sealed service kit, I only charge labor. Turnaround is usually 48 hours unless I have to order specific replacement parts not in the kit.
 
I have a Diverite RG 2500 package that has not been rebuilt since the day I bought it (about 2008). It was used heavily for 2 years, then it sat stored in a Rubbermaid container in my basement till now. If I rebuild the first, second, and octo on my own, what tools do I need to check and adjust them with when done? I shouldn't have any issues rebuilding them the instruction manual is incredible and I do a lot of my own work on cars and small motors. I'm worried about setting them up properly when done, I don't have the equipment. Any suggestions for what tools I need to adjust them when done rebuilding?
 
I have a Diverite RG 2500 package that has not been rebuilt since the day I bought it (about 2008). It was used heavily for 2 years, then it sat stored in a Rubbermaid container in my basement till now. If I rebuild the first, second, and octo on my own, what tools do I need to check and adjust them with when done? I shouldn't have any issues rebuilding them the instruction manual is incredible and I do a lot of my own work on cars and small motors. I'm worried about setting them up properly when done, I don't have the equipment. Any suggestions for what tools I need to adjust them when done rebuilding?
I'm not smart on Diverite regs, but in general having the tools to rebuild regs covers the physical adjustments. A cheap IP gauge that plugs into the BCD hose, and a bucket of water are all that's truly needed for checking the adjustments.
IP gauge example: Compact IP Gauge (PSI and BAR)
Bucket method for cracking pressure:
 
You must have an IP gauge.

An inline 2nd stage tool is convenient, but not a requirement. A magnehelic gauge is nice, but not also necessary. You can also lower your 2nd stage in a bucket. Dont make adjustments without simultaneously purging to avoid seat damage.

I have many 1208s.....
 
You must have an IP gauge.

An inline 2nd stage tool is convenient, but not a requirement. A magnehelic gauge is nice, but not also necessary. You can also lower your 2nd stage in a bucket. Dont make adjustments without simultaneously purging to avoid seat damage.

I have many 1208s.....
Don't I also need this tool?: Second Stage In-Line Adjusting Tool w/IP Gauge
 
They can help, but not needed. I tune second stages by just depressurizing the reg, remove hose from second stage, make adjustment, put together finger tight, check cracking pressure, repeat until desired result achieved.

Edit: Ninja'd by Rhwestfall!
 
There are also less expensive in-line adjustors...


and for that price I'd use one (I do)!

You can even add an in-line shut off and a short hose (if wanted) and still be below the price of that other one...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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