Truk Lagoon - The real story

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ncchuck

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
387
Reaction score
2
Location
South Carolina
# of dives
500 - 999
I wasn't sure where to post this but here goes.

I lived in Chuuk, FSM for 4 months. Chuuk is the new name for Truk Lagoon in Micronesia. I was the operations manager at Truk Stop hotel one of only two resorts on the Island. I lived in a suite in the hotel so I was right there all the time. The hotel is almost in the village and you can easily walk to several stores. Most of the road is not paved or completely broken apart and difficult to navigate by car or on foot after a rain.

The diving was better than I expected in some respects and disappointing in others. There is lots and lots of soft coral on many of the more shallow wrecks and it is spectacular. Night diving and seeing the soft coral almost glow was fun. I was very surprised that many of the wrecks can be done without exceeding 100 feet. There are probably close to 60 wrecks but only about 40 are dived on with any frequency. A few are really deep (below 140 ft) and I refused to dive on them. There was so much so see on the shallower wrecks I didn't see the point.

I'm not really a history buff but this place is just full of history. There are lots of books and even movies that explain the events so I won't I attempt to explain any of that.

Remember these wrecks are pretty old so don't expect pristine conditions. Some are broken apart but many are basically intact. Unfortunately the visibility is a little less than I would have liked. I'd guess it's 50 to 80 feet but remember your general down to 80 feet so it's a bit dark.

The Truk Stop hotel isn't in the greatest condition. I thought it was clean enough in most places but it's not the best you've ever seen. The indoor public restroom in the restaurant was pretty nasty and the outdoor one on the patio was totally unusable. I can't describe how filthy it was and I saw rats coming out of it on more than one occasion. There have a nice ocean front patio at the hotel and a great pier. Unfortunately, the owner rarely if ever cleans up the ocean front area. Lots of bottles and cans float right in front of the place. I actually paid the local school kids next door to clean them up but the hotel owner bit my head off for doing it. He said I should hire family but he never did and he never suggested anyone.

The dive shop has the basics needed but you certainly want to take your own equipment if possible. The dive guides are locals that are extremely good in the water. Most have only basic certification but the hotel attempst to keep a PADI instructor on sight but the turnover has been high. They had 13 people in 3 years. The guy before me left without notice after 3 months and the guy that followed my lasted about 2 months. The new manager seems to like the place and maybe he'll stick it out.

If there aren't a lot of divers the experience is excellent. There are 6 lockers for equipment that easily accomodate 2 or 3 divers each. The boats are great dive boats but they work. The owner likes to cram 8 or more divers on them some time but they are comfortable with 4 to 6. There are rarely more than 8 divers at the resort but I they have booked as many as 14 and that just doesn't work.

The other resort of called Blue Lagoon. It's sits on an end of the island all by itself. It's actually a gated compound. It is also a bit old and worn down but acceptable. I sometimes had a beer on Sunday afternoons on there grounds. It has several hundred feet of ocean front and a park like atmosphere. The setting beats Truk Stop Hotel easily. The place is isolated with no facilities near by. You are at the mercy of the hotel for everything though the prices charged for snacks and beer are about comparable to the Truk Stop. I never ate there but heard the food was pretty good.

The island itself is horrible. It's very dirty with junk cars everywhere. There's a channel in front of the grocery store that is just a giant cess pool. There is trash everywhere. I was told it wasn't particularly safe to walk the streets after dark so I never did. The entire problem with the island is simple. There are NO consequences for anything. The police force is a joke. Medical care is really scary. There is a hospital but many people leave sicker than they were to start with. Until a few months ago, one patient had more than 30 cats that lived with him and roamed the hospital freely. There is a small private clinic that I once visited and they were clean, organized and effective for me. It is right next to the hotel.

Would I recommend Truk Lagoon? Yes as long as you know what you are getting in too. I was never scared during the day and the diving was very good.

I visited Yap on the way home. It's another state in Micronesia and is totally different. It had paved roads and was pretty clean. The people take pride in there heritage there and it showed. If you visit this area of the world stop by Yap or Palua while you are there. (I intend to visit Palau soon)

I'll be glad to answer questions.
 
Thanks for posting an honest opinion, the unvarnished truth is often in short supply.


All the best, James
 
From our limited experience there I would agree with this assessment. We also visited Pohnpei as well and the contrast between islands was also striking. Interestingly enough there are some people on Chuuk that do want to make a difference. We meet one guy there who went to college in the same town that I grew up in Oregon. After living in the US for many years he came back to the island to teach school. We talked a bit about the differences in the islands.
 
I made a couple of errors in my posting about the Real Truth. I hope to correct them.

I was the DIVE OPERATIONS MANAGER at Truk Stop. I did not manage the hotel. I took all the diving reservations and handled all diving correspondance. I taught diving, entertained the divers, and managed the diving staff.

I installed the first wireless service on the Island. It is available to guest of the Truk Stop. It is slow however. The local telephone company calls the service T1 but it is in fact fractional T1 running at only 64kb. I tried to convince the hotel to upgrade the service but the cost is prohibitive. Believe it or not, the phone company charges well over $200 a month for the 64kb service. There is no land line to the island so all service is via satellite.

I should have said the dive boats ARE NOT great dive boats but they work just fine. The ladders aren't the greatest and getting into the boat was a frequent complaint of the guests.

I actually thought the review was more or less positive when looked at in total. The diving is great and the guides are very good. The dive operation at Truk Stop has a good safety record but the diving can be deep and common sense and caution should be used. Safety stops are an absolute must. There is a chamber on the island.

I have heard from the new manager a few times and he seems very happy to be there and appears to be making positive changes.

There are a few terrific expats on the Island and one is an angel in disguise. His name is Clark. He has been there for many years having original gone as a peace corp volunteer. He works with kids at various schools and really tries to help the people. He often brings bottled water to the school since it has no water or bathrooms.

Another great fellow is Dan. He was a pharmacist a long time ago but has been on the island for a very long time and lives as a native. He lives up in the hills somewhere and is married to a native. He's is really pretty strange but extremely smart. He knows the history of the island and more about the wrecks than anyone on the island. He worked for me once a week and I couldn't have maintained the equipment without him. He once managed the dive operation also but had problems with management similar to mine.

Truk Lagoon is a fun place to dive. If you're into history, it's as rich as it gets. Many aritifacts around the island are hidden, overgrown or destroyed unfortunately. The natives appear to have made no attempt to preserve or even capitalize on the history. Of course the suffered greatly during the war. One island has a great bunker but it is full of beer bottles and other trash.

Hopefully this adds a little more informaton and corrects a couple of errors. Have fun and enjoy Truk Lagoon.
 
Wow you will not see this description in Rodales,Thnx
 
If you Google Truk Stop, you'll get to several sites that look like they are for the Truk Stop Hotel. One is and one is not.

www.trukstop.com - Looks like they have launched a nice, new site. This one is the actual website for the hotel

www.trukstophotel.com - This site is NOT a website for the Truk Stop Hotel.

It is very unfortunate that someone would resort to such tactics to hijack website traffic.
 
I dove with you in October of 07 and had a terrific time. I didn't see much of the island, but I saw a lot of the ships. A few that were not dived much and had to be located with GPS. I noticed most of the local officials were in the Bar most of the night, and really had very little to do with infrastructure and management of island affairs. Dan was excellent even though our group gave him a lot of headaches. My dive buddy communicates regularly with "the Attorney".
All in all I had a great time. I wish I could have left a bigger tip, but the helium bill was higher than I expected. I have pictures of you and the place if you want them.
 
My wife and I are heading there the end of November,08 for a week at the Blue Lagoon. Then on on to Palau. Any suggestions as far as things to take other than the normal dive gear? I was told to bring cash as there are a limited amount of banks/teller machines to resupply... How about using credit cards on the island. Are they readily excepted? What are your thoughts on taking Tech classes there? I would like to dive the San Fransisco Maru, but it sounds like it is below the "rec" limit. Any suggestions as far as dive sights that you would recommend would be great.
Truk has been on my "bucket list" since I started diving way back when......
 
We stayed at the Blue Lagoon Resort. Loved it. The place is older to say the least, but it was clean. The staff was friendly, the dive shop helpful, and our boat driver and our DM were a joy. It was a trip of a lifetime. I was not exactly into wreck diving, but our LDS spoke with such passion about the trip that we just had to go. The dives were great, but the people were the best memory for us.

Interestingly enough, we come into Chuuk and left Chuuk in the middle of the night. Blue Lagoon Resort is "gated" and not close to anything else. We did all have the option to take a bus trip our last day, but we opted to snorkel in water around the resort.

I thought Chuuk was the original name, not a new name. I might not have my history right, but it was Americans who called it Truk Lagoon.

One tip I learned. If you have extra diving equipment, clothing, even toys (for all the kids)...please take and give to your boat driver or DM. It is a place of little general wealth and small gifts like this are appreciated...this is NOT a sub. for your tip! You tip the head DM, who passes out the money to everyone else (tradition). Our LDS owner handled most of that for us since he'd been before.
 
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