AL first with Mares second ?

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It's not all about just "performance".

You are not going to get anything out of a Mares second stage that you did not get with a Conshelf 1085 second stage IMO. A Core/Helix first with a Conshelf 14/XIV would be the ultimate simple to rebuild, utterly reliable regulator set. If it had the larger exhaust valve, the unbalanced 109 with the Mark 2 could be a contender but that tiny little exhaust valve spoils the WOB. Or a Mark V with G250s.

I am not a big guy but I am a swimmer/cyclist sort and a little barrel chested. So my lung volume is fairly large and exhausting through a 109 is just that, exhausting to me. It takes me too long to exhale to a normal stopping point and I darn sure notice the difference in exhaust effort between a 109 and a G250/Conshelf or my new G260s or my grail CE BA 156, all of which have full size 30mm+ valves.
 
Is the seat flippable? I read somewhere it "sometimes" comes with adhesive on one side.

Looking at the 62x first stage but don't yet have schematic, does it require any special tools?

Thanks again.

My C370s on the block to fund this set. I know it'll likely be a drop in performance but given the trade off of simplicity and robustness I'm ok with this. As long as it's as good as a conshelf 14 I'm ok with that.
STOP IT!
 
Yes, I'm going down a rabbit hole. Bored and looking for a distraction I guess. Thanks for yet again being the needed voice of reason, another beer owed to Lex.

However my questions may still help someone else. I got a copy of the 62X schematic but am having format issues. Once I figure it out I'll get it to @lowwall or @Zef
 
If you need distraction paint dragons on you drysuit but don’t mess with the 370 because it is about performance!
 
I love simplicity, but for me a Mares or Conshelf would be an add-on, before letting go of my performance regs. I already sold a number of regs and regreted it later... If I lived near cold water, I'd be more motivated to switch, but let's be honest I can't let go of the Atomics again. There are a couple of regs I'd still like to try (mainly @lexvil's fault :)).
 
An O ring question, the OR-106 and
OR-2025 look like they should be a -010 and -011 respectively, is that the case? Is the OR-2050 a -014? Thank you.
OR-2050 is an -014, but I have to verify the other two.

Is the seat flippable? I read somewhere it "sometimes" comes with adhesive on one side.
I assume you are talking about the second stage seat? It is flippable. But it's available as a separate part and should only cost around 3 dollars/euros/yen(x100). For example:

Looking at the 62x first stage but don't yet have schematic, does it require any special tools?
I don't have a schematic either, but externally it looks to be the same setup as the 22 family. They don't require any special tools other than something long and thin to push the HP seat (aka volcano orifice) out from the diaphragm side of the body and snap ring pliers if you are using a yoke instead of a DIN valve.

Mares does have several white plastic tools for pushing some parts out and keeping others aligned during reassembly, but you can use wooden dowels of various diameters instead.

My C370s on the block to fund this set. I know it'll likely be a drop in performance but given the trade off of simplicity and robustness I'm ok with this. As long as it's as good as a conshelf 14 I'm ok with that.
I suspect you'll be happy, the assist from the VAD (bypass tube) makes for an easy inhale. (Anticipating Nemrod's response) I have never found the exhaust effort to be noticeable.

Also, do they include exhaust valve with service kit? And if so why? Is it just to justify cost given 4 O rings, a seat and lock nut would be pittance?
Which second stage are we talking about? But, yes in general, Mares second stage service kits include an exhaust valve. Also a zip tie for the mouthpiece :)

can you use the conshelf 14 side port tuning tool with the Mares? Thanks
Mares uses a 5.5mm nut driver. I think Conshelf is 1/4" (6.35mm).

edit: If you have an inline orifice adjustment tool, you'll need the 5mm hex tip, not the slotted tip that scubapro requires.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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