Ditchable weights / balanced rig

[troponica]

Hi! Novice diver here, really need some advice.

Got certified last June, went into a frenzy buying gear that I now obviously want to modify or throw away, cause it ain't what it should be .

Long story short, the questions I'll be asking are in reference to tropical liveaboard diving conditions (3mm/5mm, 15l AL, MOD 20-40m, rec dives w/ wrecks, incl. penetration) for now, will move into cave/cavern once I'm over 100 dives and get further training.

Question 1: How ditchable should weights really be? The setup described below increases time needed to ditch weights by 8-10 seconds, BUT I don't really need to ditch them to comfortably swim up with an empty BCD and a full tank, I can easily do it with the weights on.

Hydros Pro BCD. Great item (not as good as a BPW, but can't really afford that right now ), weight pockets are a nightmare - heavy and waaaay too bulky. I am now considering altering it as follows: remove current pockets, use standard waist band, apply tank pockets to waist band (picture below) and possibly to the vertical straps that connect to the shoulder straps, add crotch strap (to stop it from riding up to my ears).

For 3 mm and high salinity, I usually use 4 kg, 2 on the sides of my tank and 2 in the weight pockets (the new pockets would be really helpful as I can strap them to the sides of my waistband and greatly improve stability, instead of them dangling under my belly). For 5mm, I'm thinking of adding 2 kilos on the lower shoulder straps, one on each side (will do check dives to see if balanced).

How risky is this setup? I'd like to emphasise that I do my best to get to a balanced rig and my permanent dive buddy uses and will be using an identical setup.

Question 2: any risk or potential issues to turning the 1st stage upside down so I have more space and not bang my head against it 100 times per minute? (tank is already strapped as low as possible).

Question 3: what type of strap/band/bungee can I use to keep the LPI closer to my chest and not have it dangle down (but still be able to vent it in case I need to, normally using shoulder or hip valves for this).

Thank you for taking the time to reply and sorry if my questions are ... idiotic .

 

[Julius SCHMIDT]

Yes a balanced rig does not require any ditchable weight

 

[halocline]

1. As long as you can swim to surface easily, and stay there, you're fine. I would try your xs scuba weight pockets on the waist band (I do that too when I need lead) and you can put a couple of weights on the tank cambands; you can use a couple more of those same weight pockets for that. If you're on the surface and you need to get more buoyant with a BC failure, you can simply reach in the pockets on your waist band and take them out. Personally, I place weights in warm water diving for optimal trim, and with an AL tank and no steel plate, that usually means on the tank bands.

2. I don't know what you mean by upside down for the regulator, but usually divers with a turret (swivel) style 1st stage point it down. It's more protected that way and less likely to bang into your head.

3. Most technical divers use a bungee loop attached to the left chest D ring and run the inflator hose through it. You can either just run the LP inflator hose through it, not the corrugated hose, and then simply stretch it up to dump air, or (this is what I do) run both through the bungee, and simply pull it out if you need to raise it up. More often I use the hip dump valve to vent. If the corrugated hose is too long, you can replace it with a shorter one and also get a shorter LP inflator hose. Many recreational style BCs come with a corrugated hose that is too long for my tastes.

 

[CuzzA]

Hi! Novice diver here, really need some advice.

Got certified last June, went into a frenzy buying gear that I now obviously want to modify or throw away, cause it ain't what it should be .

Long story short, the questions I'll be asking are in reference to tropical liveaboard diving conditions (3mm/5mm, 15l AL, MOD 20-40m, rec dives w/ wrecks, incl. penetration) for now, will move into cave/cavern once I'm over 100 dives and get further training.

Question 1: How ditchable should weights really be? The setup described below increases time needed to ditch weights by 8-10 seconds, BUT I don't really need to ditch them to comfortably swim up with an empty BCD and a full tank, I can easily do it with the weights on.

Hydros Pro BCD. Great item (not as good as a BPW, but can't really afford that right now ), weight pockets are a nightmare - heavy and waaaay too bulky. I am now considering altering it as follows: remove current pockets, use standard waist band, apply tank pockets to waist band (picture below) and possibly to the vertical straps that connect to the shoulder straps, add crotch strap (to stop it from riding up to my ears).

For 3 mm and high salinity, I usually use 4 kg, 2 on the sides of my tank and 2 in the weight pockets (the new pockets would be really helpful as I can strap them to the sides of my waistband and greatly improve stability, instead of them dangling under my belly). For 5mm, I'm thinking of adding 2 kilos on the lower shoulder straps, one on each side (will do check dives to see if balanced).

How risky is this setup? I'd like to emphasise that I do my best to get to a balanced rig and my permanent dive buddy uses and will be using an identical setup.

Question 2: any risk or potential issues to turning the 1st stage upside down so I have more space and not bang my head against it 100 times per minute? (tank is already strapped as low as possible).

Question 3: what type of strap/band/bungee can I use to keep the LPI closer to my chest and not have it dangle down (but still be able to vent it in case I need to, normally using shoulder or hip valves for this).

Thank you for taking the time to reply and sorry if my questions are ... idiotic .

View attachment 650707 View attachment 650708

A1. The purpose of ditchable ballast is really more for the surface. You made it to the surface, but are having some sort of problem, be it with your gear or medical. Personally I recommend a rubber weight belt as it solves issues rather than creates them with integrated ballast. No need to place weights all over the place and consequently turn your BC into a sack of bricks.

A2. No issues turning your first stage upside down, but often times it's a matter of adjusting your shoulder straps so your whole rig sits an inch or so lower.

A3. Shock/Bungee cord, paracord cord, inner tube or an overpriced velcro should strap will work.

 

[mmerriman]

Yes a balanced rig does not require any ditchable weight

until you have a catastrophic flood in your drysuit.......

 

[CT-Rich]

With a full tank and an empty BCD, you will be negative on the surface. Ditchable weights are a form of redundant buoyancy. Ditching weight at depth should not be necessary. Most ditching of weights occurs on the surface to help you stay there, comfortably. If you find yourself struggling to stay on the surface, dumping lead is the safest way to fix it it QUICKLY (if adding air to your BCD is not an option). You can have a balanced rig and still have ditchable weights with a 5mm wetsuit.

 

[jlcnuke]

I don't carry ditchable weights (well, not easily ditchable). My weight is put in trim pockets on the tank cam-bands. If you're properly weighted, even a catastrophic failure of the BCD shouldn't prevent you from staying on the surface without much difficulty. Wearing a 3mm wetsuit on a liveaboard I had the bladder fail about halfway through the trip. Since my rig was balanced, I didn't really care as I just didn't bother using the BCD for the rest of the trip. Sure, floating waiting to get back on the boat I had to lightly tread water to stay surfaced, but that's not difficult. Should I have surfaced well away from the boat and faced spending a good deal of time there I might have had my dive buddy take my weights out (or take it off and remove them myself) in such an emergency situation where I'd be on the surface for an extended period of time.

If everything was set up right, you generally shouldn't be banging your head against the regs all the time. Have you asked an instructor, experienced diver, etc. if they have a solution that might work for you?

A BP/W system normally is set up with a bungee at the left chest d-ring to capture your inflator hose going to the inflator so that it won't float away.

 

[AJ]

until you have a catastrophic flood in your drysuit.......

That won't change buoyancy. At least not enough to matter. You will just be a lot colder.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

until you have a catastrophic flood in your drysuit.......

don't think that's an issue for someone diving in tropical waters, per the OP.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

Hydros Pro BCD. Great item (not as good as a BPW, but can't really afford that right now )

Have you thought about selling it and buying a BPW? Even used, you should come ahead.