Yes I tried the grey side of the padi slate. It works fine on land underwater it was crap
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Could you explain the reasons for this conclusion?
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Yes I tried the grey side of the padi slate. It works fine on land underwater it was crap
I don't know how you were able to get such good color on the video. How close do you put your hand to the lens for MWB and did you color correct in post?No but I have the same issue with the Sony RX100
Using the hand though I got good results with the LX7 as in this video
[youtubehq]koxuZo1YUwE[/youtubehq]
You guys may be forgetting that it is not your depth that is the important thing, but rather the amount of water the light has to go through before it hits your lens. So if you are shooting a (say) fish in front of you at (say) 40 ft, the light is just going through 40 ft to get to the fish, and another (say) 2-3 feet to get from the fish to the lens....and losing red all the way. But 40 versus 42-43 feet is not a big deal, so white-balancing against white or gray at the camera is OK. But if you are at 40 ft and shooting a WA reef scene, then the light is passing through 40 to maybe 100 ft plus of water.....and losing red all the way. So white-balancing at the camera misses the point....you need to correct for more than the 40-feet depth you are at. So correcting to something that is reddish (your hand, some brown coral....) will remove more red from your images than using a white-card. No surprise that "white-balancing" against brown coral works better for reef scenes!