Hydro testing/visual expectations?

[an0br1]

How about the disclription, I told you Crazy John knows
So I thought I would share, so youse all get to know too

I will be kicking the can down the road in regards to my burst discs and replacing the valves with DIN variants.

In 5 years when they need a new hydro I can decide if I should leave the disc alone, replace it, or plug it.

 

[TravisD]

I will be kicking the can down the road in regards to my burst discs and replacing the valves with DIN variants.

In 5 years when they need a new hydro I can decide if I should leave the disc alone, replace it, or plug it.

For AL80's or similar 3000psi cylinders, this is frequently the best option, especially with the "2 for $70" deal that DGX has on new pro valves.

 

[an0br1]

For AL80's or similar 3000psi cylinders, this is frequently the best option, especially with the "2 for $70" deal that DGX has on new pro valves.

Edit: found it. Thanks.

Is that an occasional deal, or one I just didn't find when looking in their valves section?

Rather than d'k around with the dive shop I was just going to run the two tanks down, replace the valves, and then use an equalizing hose to get the tanks back to a fillable state from my 3300psi filled tank.

 

[happy-diver]

Kicking It with 'Kick the Can Down the Road'

We couldn't put it off any longer.

www.merriam-webster.com

Great plan about the discs with plenty of time to formulate and refine it
Do they really, not fill completely empty tanks, unless you ask forcefully

 

[Dsix36]

Great plan about the discs with plenty of time to formulate and refine it
Do they really, not fill completely empty tanks, unless you ask forcefully

Many shops will not fill an empty tank without a quick inspection to verify what the inside looks like.

 

[TravisD]

Rather than d'k around with the dive shop I was just going to run the two tanks down, replace the valves, and then use an equalizing hose to get the tanks back to a fillable state from my 3300psi filled tank.

Save yourself 1 fill and just do one "bad" valve at a time - start with the lowest one, equalize from the other one, then do the 2nd and equalize back. You'll have "some" air in there which will make the shop happy if in fact they get persnickety about that kind of thing.

 

[an0br1]

Save yourself 1 fill and just do one "bad" valve at a time - start with the lowest one, equalize from the other one, then do the 2nd and equalize back. You'll have "some" air in there which will make the shop happy if in fact they get persnickety about that kind of thing.

If my math is right I can completely empty a 13cu ft pony bottle (cuz I'm not going to trust 20+ year old air, and can then see what the inside looks like) and then transfer from the 3300psi tank and end up with a ~2800psi Alu 80 and equally pressured Alu 13. That Alu 13 should then be able to fill an empty Alu 80 to ~400psi.

So cascading through the tanks as you suggest I should be able to get a reasonable amount of use from all of them, and then fill all four at once the next time we go diving.

 

[happy-diver]

I have been changing valves around as I change tanks around, J valves, k valves, Din or Yoke no fill issues
and then a few years back, some were importing these stupidities, so I tell them I just changed the valves

not in a dust storm in the desert with the pine plantations pollenating out in the open in the pouring rain
and they fill them
a girl told me my nuts were loose I like them that way so as not to deactivate the suspension of the spring


I have never been asked anything about filling with J valves, except which way the lever should positioned

Last week two of my in test completely unlabeled for nitrox and painted silver tanks were filled with nitrox


Transfilling to appease the dive shop I would give up diving