Question Bali - Muck / Macro - general questions / where to stay / local dive shops

[Dom23]

Hi there,

currently planning my first scuba dive vacation to Bali and there are a few questions that I would like to discuss.
My main focus will be muck / macro diving and maybe a few dives for manta and mola mola (if available).

1.) As of right now I am planning to go there by the beginning of october for 2-3 weeks. Is this a good time of the year concerning macro critters or are there any special ones not available? My travel date is still flexible so september or november could be an option, too. Avoiding the huge crowds of tourists should be concidered aswell.

2.) From what information I allready gathered it seems like Tulamben & Amed will be the main spots that I visit, maybe Secret Bay and Puri Jati, depending on time.
Are there any other locations worth visiting for macro, like Padang Bai?

3.) As for Tulamben and Amed is it necessary to stay in both places or should I pick one for the whole time?

4.) I am looking for a local owned dive shop so if you dived there recently recommendations are welcome. Since it is muck diving and I do photography a ratio of 2:1 would be a big plus.

Thank you so much!

 

[clownfishsydney]

Tulamben and Amed are both great and also different to each other. I would suggest time in each. Over the past three years I have been to Liberty Dive Resort (two other earlier trips as well) at Tulamben and can strongly recommend them. Got back last Tuesday from 3.5 weeks there. I have also spent a week at Amed at Hotel Uyah, also can recommend.

 

[Luko]

1.) As of right now I am planning to go there by the beginning of october for 2-3 weeks. Is this a good time of the year concerning macro critters or are there any special ones not available?

Absolutely great season for the sea conditions, critters are usually year round in Bali. I haven't heard of a specific season in T'ben unlike Lembeh for instance.

maybe Secret Bay and Puri Jati,

Not worth the travel IMO, limited numbre of spots + Secret bay is not the place it used to be, you will find in Tulmaben everything you have in Puri Jati (and more).

Are there any other locations worth visiting for macro, like Padang Bai?

Yes, PB is great. "Jetty" was a site unlike no other a few years ago.. I already had a dive with... wait ... 4 rhinopias (FOUR) around the jetty, other dives with at least a dozen of froggies clung to the gorgonians on the pillars (yes a DOZEN).
Nudis can be different than Tulamben.

As for Tulamben and Amed is it necessary to stay in both places or should I pick one for the whole time?

You HAVE to stay at different places the key is the guide's knowledge. Amed guides won't know TUlamben secrets as much as T'ben guides, T'ben guides hardly dive Amed sites.
You MUST do a night dive on the Japanese Wreck, this place is fantastic for macro on a good dive, totally different critters (nudibranches) than Tulamben.

I am looking for a local owned dive shop so if you dived there recently recommendations are welcome. Since it is muck diving and I do photography a ratio of 2:1 would be a big plus.

Tulamben is freelance guide driven for the ultimate dive guides esp. if you're into Photo (meaning you should book them outside your dive center ie. Facebook contact) however if you're not comfortable with it, I consider Utama Villa in Tulamben to have the best "in resort" dive guides (Komang Agus, their manager is coming from Liberty, as well as Ari, Noris is coming from Markisa which is probably the best "guide school" for nudibranches thanks to the owner).
Bintang divers for Amed. There's one dive guide I forgot the name who's specialized in macro.

 

[Dom23]

Tulamben and Amed are both great and also different to each other. I would suggest time in each. Over the past three years I have been to Liberty Dive Resort (two other earlier trips as well) at Tulamben and can strongly recommend them. Got back last Tuesday from 3.5 weeks there. I have also spent a week at Amed at Hotel Uyah, also can recommend.

Thanks for the advice. How would you split the time (let's say 3 weeks) there?

Yes, PB is great. "Jetty" was a site unlike no other a few years ago.. I already had a dive with... wait ... 4 rhinopias (FOUR) around the jetty, other dives with at least a dozen of froggies clung to the gorgonians on the pillars (yes a DOZEN).
Nudis can be different than Tulamben.

That's good to know, would you still recommend going there on a 3 weeks trip or leave it out to focus on Tulamben / Amed? I still need few days for Manta / Mola Mola, transfers etc., so more like 2 weeks available for macro.

You HAVE to stay at different places the key is the guide's knowledge. Amed guides won't know TUlamben secrets as much as T'ben guides, T'ben guides hardly dive Amed sites.
You MUST do a night dive on the Japanese Wreck, this place is fantastic for macro on a good dive, totally different critters (nudibranches) than Tulamben.

Good point, I was thinking since those places are next to each other and operators offer both it would not make much difference. As for the 2 weeks of macro mentioned earlier how would you split the time inbetween the two, Tulamben and Amed?

Since you seem to be quite experienced with the diving there may I ask a more specific question concerning the critters there which might impact how to split the time. My most wanted critters on my bucketlist are:

- Rhinopias (Weedy)
- Kikutarobabai Nudibranch
- Harlequin Shrimp
- Donut Nudibranch
- Doto Ussi Nudibranch
- Mimic Octopus
- Ghostpipefish (Halimeda, Velvet, Harlequin)
- Blue Ringed Octopus
- Candy Crab
- Hairy Frogfish
- Ambon Scorpionfish

Tulamben is freelance guide driven for the ultimate dive guides esp. if you're into Photo (meaning you should book them outside your dive center ie. Facebook contact) however if you're not comfortable with it, I consider Utama Villa in Tulamben to have the best "in resort" dive guides (Komang Agus, their manager is coming from Liberty, as well as Ari, Noris is coming from Markisa which is probably the best "guide school" for nudibranches thanks to the owner).
Bintang divers for Amed. There's one dive guide I forgot the name who's specialized in macro.

Thank you so much, that's great advice.

I came across Bintang Divers in Amed aswell and they seem to be really good.
As for Tulamben I was looking at Wonder Dive Bali. Looks like a local owned shop, not too big.
I do not have experience in getting a freelance guide, might give it a shot but not 100% sure.

Once again, thanks alot, very useful information.

 

[Luko]

That's good to know, would you still recommend going there on a 3 weeks trip or leave it out to focus on Tulamben / Amed? I still need few days for Manta / Mola Mola, transfers etc., so more like 2 weeks available for macro.

You can dive Nusa Penida from Padang Bai on daytrips, in fact I think it's preferable to dive from PB if you're looking for Mola mola since they're also seen on Gili Tepekong/Mimpang which are somehow "local" sites from PB.
Manta point is quite a crowded place. You can go although in season expect ten boats and somewhere between 40-70 divers at the same time. October maybe only 30 divers , Crystal bay similarly for molamola that's why I prefer Padang Bai's Gili Tepekong.

For 3 weeks I'd recommend 8-9 days Tulamben if you're fully into macro / 5 days Amed that has a limited range of interesting sites macrowise, make sure with the Dive Center you arrange to do Japanese Wreck for corals (best coral site in Bali) as well as JW for macro as a night dive (transfer from T'ben is 30 minutes so can be done in the morning before diving)/ 5 days PB you can do 2 day trips to Nusa Penida (arrange priorily with dive center Gekodive or Absolute), one trip on Tepekong/Mimpang and 2 days for local macro (transfer from Amed is 1,5 hrs can be done after afternoon dive, no need to dry/pack stuff for the transfers, just anticipate a BIG plastic bag where you put all your wet equipement so it doesn't drip water in the trunk of your driver's car.

Check my comments for each of your critterlist :

- Rhinopias (Weedy) --> they can be either in Tulamben or Padang Bai, they have weedy, eschmeyeri and false rhinopias ie. filamentosa scorpionfish
- Kikutarobabai Nudibranch --> there"s always one around, Tulamben guides pass the word : ask the guide.
- Harlequin Shrimp --> easy peasy, almost everyday in Tulamben from juveniles to couples feeding on starfish
- Donut Nudibranch --> yes especially on 2 sites, just ask the guide.
- Doto Ussi Nudibranch --> Boooo-ring. they'll find some on everydive after 3 minutes looking into the stinging hydroids. Tulamben is Doto/eubranchus paradise : you will find many species much more interesting and spectacular than D.ussi
- Mimic Octopus --> more often wonderpus than Mimic, you may find them on shallow Sidem or Batu Ringgit
- Ghostpipefish (Halimeda, Velvet, Harlequin) --> plenty of harlequin almost on each dive, halimeda on a couple of dive sites. After all these years I'm not sure velvet is a real specie but a color variation of robust, paegnius or halimeda.
- Blue Ringed Octopus --> more likely Mototi octopus on Kuanji ridge
- Candy Crab -->plenty, ask your guide to show them on the soft corals.
- Hairy Frogfish --> sometimes.
- Ambon Scorpionfish --> more likely on night dives.

I also can add these more or less frequently seen critters on your check list :
- Favorinus nudibranchs eating ribbons of eggs
- Emperor shrimps running on the back of nudis
- Lots of Thorunna and Trapani anudis on Gerombong/T'ben.
- Spiny tiger shrimps
- Donald duck shrimps
- Hairy shrimps carrying eggs
- Gobies guarding eggs on tunicates
- ... but the specialty of Tulamben is the ghost shrimp, that I haven't seen anywhere else.

You can check my gallery, you'll get an idea of what you may come across in Bali :

UW Bali 2011/25

All Bali areas between 2011 and 2025 : Pemuteran, Menjangan, Tulamben (mostly!), Amed, Padang Bai and Nusa Penida.

www.flickr.com

As for Tulamben I was looking at Wonder Dive Bali.

It's in front or close to Utama Villa (which is a more comfortable choice albeit budget friendly)

 

[Tippytoes12]

We have stayed and dived on several occasions with Liberty Dive Resort and it has always been superb. Each room gets their own vehicle, dive guide and driver. You set your own schedule and Nitrox is included free. Our guide has always been Made Saur, whose family has lived in the area for generations and who knows the reefs like the city of his hand. We have also stayed in Amed once and Candidasa once, neither experience was a good as Liberty Dive Resort. We have also stayed and dived with absolute Scuba in Padang Bai many times and really recommend them too. The Nusa islands are also excellent but we seem to always have better luck with spots on day trips from Padang Bai. You should see Mola Mola if you devote enough time to the Padang Bai area.

 

[Grm]

Lots of good advice above, Secret bay definitely no good now. Echo advice on Mola Mola, Tepekong and Mimpang etc are the places - see more here than Crystal Bay which in my view is overrated and like a circus now. Manta point best as a day trip now and late in day after the circus has gone.
I always have a few days with Bali Dive Academy up at Pemuteran, very quiet usually 1 or 2 in group and some nice dives up at Menjangen Island too, few from my dives last 3 days including a rare Ghost Pipe Horse though my eyes and focus are not so good

 

[Blackcrusader]

@Dom23 one thing about these sites is that they can have ripping currents. If you don't have a reef hook you might want to get one. Also a DSMB. When I was in Padang Bai a diver with another dive op got separated from his guide and swept out into the ferry channel where he was fortunately picked up by a passing ferry. I actually carry a 3m length DSMB as well as my normal 1.8m DSMB just in case.

Water temps can vary and I mostlly dive in a T Shirt and shorts even at Crystal Bay for Mola the water was 22c. I have a sharkskin top with long sleeves for water colder than 23c now. Mola are sometimes at 35m or deeper.

I dove with Geko Divers in Padang Bai who do not have limits on dive times. I stayed at Matahari in Tulamben at Liberty wreck area for 5 days. In Amed you can do as a day trip but better to just stay there.

I also dove with Tamarind Divers in Lembongan which is another island but only 2 dives a day as currents are too strong in the afternoons. We did some ripping fast drive dives there. I also do marco photography.

But sometimes you get nice critters on night dives especially on the wrecks.

 

[Blackcrusader]

I was staying in Lembonang when I went to Crystal Bay for Mola Mola. Was cold 22c water temp.
Mola was at 35m depth the the currents away from the wall can be really strong.

 

[FLST]

@Dom23 one thing about these sites is that they can have ripping currents. If you don't have a reef hook you might want to get one.

Does the above relate to Tulamben also? I've only been looking into Bali for a few weeks but I was under the impression that most sites there didn't generally have strong current...