YS-110a or YS01 for PT-EP01 housing

[Peter Guy]

That has to make it the favourite unless you think you need more power.

Why?

I really don't understand the reasoning behind fast sync speeds. What difference does it make? Note -- I'm almost always taking my pics where it is dark.

 

[pmenear]

Your quite right, if you only take shots where its dark the fast sync has little use.
But if you want to get those black backgrounds on macro shots in bright clear tropical waters or fill light shots into the sun then fast sync starts to be very useful. I also find taking shots of the suns rays coming down as a back drop work best with high f stops and the fast sync fill light makes it work a lot better. I am sure the more skilled/experienced than me can think of loads of uses I've not discovered yet but for the creative style of photography as opposed to the recording style I find high sync speed invaluable.

 

[nudibranco]

I have the YS110alpha and went for the UFL2 to get the high sync speed.
Frankly I am struggling a bit with it. Beside the fact that I found it very positive in water, its angle of coverage is MUCH less than the 110alpha and its power even when zoomed all the way is less than the alpha...Also 2 batteries on the alpha have a recharge cycle much slower! And I am not sure why there is no slave mode that syncs on the 2nd flash like the alpha does. Basically I cannot get to use the UFL2 with the EPL1 unless I use the RC mode on the camera and the flash... And how do I get a manual operation of the flash? Any help appreciated!

Andrea

 

[pmenear]

If you don't want to use the UFL-2 in rcmode then you have 2 options of slave(SL) mode that are controlled by the internal flash via the fibre optic cable. 1. Auto SL, this lets you adjust the f stop of the auto light receiving window of the flash. 2. Manual SL, this lets you adjust the GN(power) of the flash. Preset the UFL-2 ISO setting in the custom settings menu you will be using to match the camera. Use the zoom button to match the focal length of the lens which changes the flash angle to match the lenses field of view.
The other 2 options on the UFL-2 are for use with a sync cable and are marked, Auto Four Thirds and Manual Four Thirds, the camera flash is not used in those options.
It is by far the most advanced flash I have ever used but a little underpowered. I use rcmode exclusively and adjust the result I want to achieve by using the camera in manual mode, which gives me the option of shutter speeds up to 2000 and the f stops to give the desired depth of field. I find it simple then to take several shots of the same subject to adjust the background exposure several different ways,from black to overexposed if desired all with only simple camera adjustment and just let the flash do its own thing.

 

[nudibranco]

It does have 2 more slave modes but for some reason I am not sure how I can set the EPL1 not to preflash. The UFL2 slave modes sync on single flash from the camera (so if there is preflash it will not sync). Basically I can only use it on RC mode? Or is there a way not to preflash? ... ?

 

[pmenear]

My E-PL1 and UFL-2 combination works perfectly in the rcmode and the 2 slave modes. No preflash triggering. As long as you are using the camera set in any flash mode other than red eye reduction I would expect it to work the way mine does. Sorry but I have no idea why yours is being triggered by preflash..

 

[nudibranco]

thanks, at least I know i am probably doing something wrong then.... !! I may have had some narcosis... ) will try on land...