October 2003. I was involuntarily recalled to Active Duty for Gulf War, Part II and my jet was hard, hard broke in U-Tapao, Thailand (inop radar, flat tire, broken leading edge slats). Parts had to come from the other end of the world, so I had a very rare few days off while I waited for them to be sourced and shipped. I found a local dive outfit in Pattya and we ended up diving the Hardeep (Suddhadib) wreck.
The wreck itself wasn't too challenging; lying fully on its right side, top at 16m/52' , bottom at 26m/85'. Length of the wreck, 70m/230', with an easy penetration, stern to bow.
What made it memorable was a few things-- the dive guide spoke very limited English (he was German) and the equipment was all in bar and meters, so I had to run conversions in my head as I wasn't all that familiar with bar/meters at the time. The *really* memorable part of the dive was the current-- strongest I've ever seen, flowing perpendicular to the wreck from bottom of the hull and over the side of the superstructure. You jumped off the skiff holding a leader line that was tied off on the shot line. As soon as you hit the water, you had your arms yanked over your head as you streamlined and had to pull yourself hand over hand to the shot line. Then, you had to pull yourself, upside down, hand over hand down the shot line to where it tied off at at the stern of the wreck. You released the shot line and kicked like hell to get parallel to the deck. As soon as you got into the lee, it was *completely* calm-- weirdest thing. One second, you're fighting hard, the next, you're floating in space, completely currentness.
We did a light-zone penetration and ended up at the bow. We were all (me, my crew chief who was a dive instructor in Guam and the German guide) staying below the edge of the hull due to the current-- it was so strong, you could literally look over the lip and it would rip your mask right off of your face-- kind of cool, actually. Once we all got to the bow, we released off of the wreck (as previously briefed) and did a drifting ascent in the current-- it was FAST.
And the final weird part? When we surfaced, the million year old Thai boat captain with his beat up old skiff was right there waiting for us. Talk about some serious navigational skills.
To this day, it's one of the most memorable dives I've ever done.
R.