Your Dive CPU is? And Why?

[Captain Morgan]

Suunto you can make it more Liberal. You can change it from 100% down to 50%, for smaller RGBM effects should you choose to do so.

While true, should you choose not to use the full Suunto RGBM model you can adjust the algorithm to an Attenuated RGBM that will reduce it 50%--I still wouldn't consider that 'liberal'-- at least compared to other computers. If you've experienced your fair share of different makes and models you'll probably even notice that 50% RGBM is still going to be noticeably more conservative than say...ScubaPro, Aeris, or Oceanic.

Also, (correct me if I'm wrong) I believe the Suunto Vytec is the only model you can adjust that way. I could be mistaken and probably am.

What I was really getting at was how conservative they are in regards to repetitive dives, or reverse profiles; giving irrational mandatory deco to divers when those using say...a VT3 or Aladin Pro (under very similar profiles) nothing. Additionally, they are more particular about ascent rates and if you come up 15 feet too fast, it'll throw you in a one minute ceiling. If you dive often, at some point it will lock you out. You got to know its limits. For me, It's all about BT.

The point I was making that new divers should not be doing these adjustment until they become more experienced and understand exactly what these settings mean and are going to do.

I would hope and assume that any new diver will take the time to understand their computer, its features...and capabilities. The most important factor to consider....user replaceable batteries.

 

[imasinker]

Hi Captain,

I agree, and to say I am less experienced as you with different types of computers. I have a Gekko, a basic wrist computer and yes you cannot adjust the RGBM. Yet my Cobra2, as well as the Cobra , Vyper, Vytek, D9 D6 all can be adjusted. All come with user repalceable batteries, one of the best feautures I made sure of. I haven't been locked out from them yet. I did a two day Charter with three dives a day all went well. I understand your point, agree that an experienced diver may want to be able to adjust for finer dive times and bottom time. I also agree with your point that any new diver or diver in general should know about his or her computer completely.

 

[Bottomfeeder Brodie]

Major research on mine and ended with an Oceanic Pro2 Plus. LSD's sell for $750.00 "on sale".....bought mine online from Oceanic Authorized Dealer Leisure Pro for $499.95.....I bought 2 of them. Never any problems and does everything but kick for me.

 

[Insert Catchy name]

Think I have decided on getting for my main computer (back up still in discussion), the Oceanic HUD mask w/ Transmitter.

I think it is kind of cool, plus no need to look down for gauges.

Comments?

 

[Insert Catchy name]

Hey Brodie.

Am in Bradenton as well.

Small world huh?


JOe

 

[imasinker]

Think I have decided on getting for my main computer (back up still in discussion), the Oceanic HUD mask w/ Transmitter.

I think it is kind of cool, plus no need to look down for gauges.

Comments?

I have seen one of our club divers use one. I haven't had a chance to get any feed back. Just hope you never lose the mask. Seems like a great idea, I for one like the idea and in price it compares and probably we will see other designs and changes to come. From the research I have done they are still pretty much new and haven't yet been out to the public long enough to gather much info positive or negative. Be great to hear from members here who have one what they have to say. If you get one, keep us posted, I would like to hear your opinions.

 

[Anti-Hero]

Think I have decided on getting for my main computer (back up still in discussion), the Oceanic HUD mask w/ Transmitter.

I think it is kind of cool, plus no need to look down for gauges.

Comments?

There is a lot of good feedback on the Datamask in the Oceanic vendor forum, and in the computers sub forum. From what I've read the good/bad is about 50/50. There were a lot of reported issues of corrosion and computers just not working correctly. I have also heard getting the data link to work is problematic at best.

Good luck.

 

[katdiver]

I've used the Aladins over the years and have always stuck with them. The big display is what I love. Ok, it's a pain to get the battery changed, but I've got one from about 2 generations back and I'll use that when my current Uwatec Smart Z battery expires. It's usually back in 1-2 weeks.
For me, I like to wear a watch and a dive computer, I just don't like computers that look like watches.

 

[imasinker]

Forget it!

 

[halocline]

I would never buy one of the data masks. First, it's a huge expense for something that does absolutely nothing more than a $50 mask, $300 wrist computer, and $75 SPG. What happens if it leaks? Replacing a regular mask on a dive trip is easy; usually there's one in the spare gear bag right on the boat.

More than that, though, personally if I want to see the numbers on my dive I look at the gauges. I don't want them broadcast to me in my line of sight as I'm actually looking at the stuff I'm paying to be able to look at. If it's too much trouble to look at your wrist for depth/time/NDL and a gauge for gas, maybe it's time to consider a less demanding past time like watching TV.

Another thing is that mask selection is one of the under-rated gear decisions that can really make a huge difference in your diving enjoyment. (That and fins) You should find a mask that fits perfectly, which you won't really know until you dive with it, and one that offers the kind of visibility you want. You could easily buy one of these $1500 solutions-in-search-of-a-problem and find out after 1 dive that it pinches your forehead, doesn't seal well under your nose, or doesn't allow you to as much as one of the wide angle masks. Then what? Ebay!

Another thing is that masks hardly last forever. UV eventually eats away at the silicone, lenses get scratched, etc...With a regular mask, after a few years you go out and spend another $50 if you need to. Or, maybe a new fancy mask with low iron glass (no tint)