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Yoke to Din, Din to yoke?

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself - DIY' started by Rdal, Sep 13, 2018.

  1. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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    Very simple to fix...valves are typically made from brass and shallow depression is easy to make in a pinch by milling it with a drill bit....the likelihood is that a diver is more likely to find themself on a trip with yoke only valves or with convertible DIN valves. Most operators would be disinclined to purchase DIN only valves for their fleet of rental or charter gear. But you are correct, there are DIN only valves out there.

    -Z
     
  2. gcarter

    gcarter Orca

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Ottawa, Canada
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    YMMV, but I would not use a tank that saw the operator drilling into the valve before handing it over to me.
     
  3. kelemvor

    kelemvor Big Fleshy Monster ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Largo, FL USA
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    If I remember right, I think It's actually not the dimple (or lack thereof) that is a problem for non convertible din valves. The valve its-self is too wide to fit inside the yoke. The convertible valves are deliberately made a little narrower.

    I've only traveled to Cozumel, Roatan, and various locations in Florida but I've never seen a DIN valve on a rental tank. Some operators can provide DIN but I think you have to request it in advance.

    I have had a problem using DIN regulators at one point. I managed to get a yoke adapter badly cross threaded onto my din regulator (before I started just converting them). That was a huge hassle that required several big wrenches and a lot of elbow grease to fix. It scraped up the regulator's finish pretty good, too.
     
  4. АлександрД

    АлександрД Manta Ray

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Moscow, Russia
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    check you valve.
    If it has small cone hole on oposite side of thread - it could be easy converted to yoke
    If like this
    FBRPV.jpg
    - it could be converted.

    Just buy very simple adapror:
    DGX Insert 200-BAR DIN to Yoke
    dx-702282_3b.jpg
     
  5. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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    The notion of drilling into the back of a valve was a bit "tongue in cheek"....not to be taken too seriously.

    The reality is that if one falls in the category of "the average recreational diver", if they travel or rent equipment, they would be better served by a yoke regulator than a DIN regulator....and since the OP's current setup is yoke, it would be an unnecessary expense to convert to DIN and then buy and carry an adapter to be able to convert back to yoke.

    Just sayin'.

    -Z
     
    gcarter likes this.
  6. kelemvor

    kelemvor Big Fleshy Monster ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Largo, FL USA
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    There's no doubt that it's un-necessary. Unless he's diving in overheads you don't need DIN. Although even then I think yoke is only theoretically a problem. I went that route because I like the connection better. It feels like "less stuff" on the first stage when it's all connected and I never worry about a tank having a crappy o-ring since it's part of my regulators that get serviced regularly. Quite a lot of gear I own falls into the category of being something that I like but is not really necessary. IMO you do what you think will make the sport more enjoyable for you.

    Once you own a conversion kit, you can swap back and forth to your heart's content. No need for a yoke adapter or din inserts ever.
     
    gcarter likes this.
  7. Brian G

    Brian G Nassau Grouper

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Pittsburgh
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    Ok folks, I'm surprised no one has just answered the question. No, there is no problem with converting your first stage to yoke and back again a couple times a year. There are some things to watch out for though. There is a torque spec for that fitting, and over torquing it is pretty easy, so a torque wrench is recommended unless you mechanic a lot and your hands are pretty calibrated. Over torquing leads to deformed threads or cracked fittings which may fail underwater. Bad. There is an o-ring or two for the fitting that is probably supposed to be switched out every time you change it. At least inspect that. Get the correct socket for the yoke nut, as I think some use 1" and some use 25mm. You'll need a really thin-wall socket that isn't too tall. You'll probably need to modify one or get a SCUBA-specific tool. I think that's it. Have fun!
     
  8. kelemvor

    kelemvor Big Fleshy Monster ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Largo, FL USA
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    I switch my regs a few times a year and never bother with specific torque. I just use hand tools and don't tighten stuff down super hard. I didn't even know a special torque was desirable until just now. Perhaps not all regs are the same, but no o-rings come out of my mk25 during the conversion.
     
  9. Brian G

    Brian G Nassau Grouper

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Pittsburgh
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    Torque spec is 22 ft lbs for the Mk20 and Mk25 (probably for other Scubapro as well). Not torquing enough leaves the fitting more susceptible to coming loose, usually from bumping the first stage while it is atrached to a tank. (Even if torqued properly you can loosen the fitting this way.) Both the din and yoke fittings have an o-ring to seal it to the body. They may not "come out", but you should make sure they are in good condition and properly lubed.
     
  10. bamafan

    bamafan Manta Ray

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Panama City Beach, Fl.
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    The valves without the insert are 300 bar valves and deeper. The 200 bar inserts would screw in but if seated will still have the valve threads sticking out past the insert. I have never seen a 300 bar insert and dot they exist. There are fill adapters that I have seen being used to mount a yoke reg to a tank. I definitely wouldn't recommend that.
     

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