WTB single tank wing setup
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Can you explain why you want a dual bladder singles wing? Don't believe I have ever seen one. I can put together a single tank set up for you but I would not recommend an AIR 2 type device.
How did you decide on the lift capacity?
I have an 11 page article I think you may find useful. PM me your email address as it is too large to send via PM or post here.
How did you decide on the lift capacity?
I have an 11 page article I think you may find useful. PM me your email address as it is too large to send via PM or post here.
You can't go wrong taking your business to Jim. But, if I were in Miami, I think I might just drive up to Pompano Beach and visit Dive Gear Express. They have great gear, great prices, great customer service, and give great advice.
https://www.divegearexpress.com/
https://www.divegearexpress.com/
I dive wet. The water in Miami is warm the entire year. Most people use a dry suit up north and call it a day. I have to either be a minimalist and keep the total ballast weight to 15 pounds or less so I don't get a heart attack swimming it up, or use a double bladder. I'm not sold on the double bladder idea, but I'd entertain it which is why I put it as bonus (along with the air2).
My my primary idea is to use the SS plate, harness steel rings and accessories, pony, and steel Hp120 to hold me down. That would be around 5 + 2 + 1 + ?. Depends on the tank I haven't purchased yet. I'm piecing it all together. I'd love to see what you wrote. I sent you a PM with my email.
I know Jim will see what you've said and make "a few" recommendations.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I dive wet in a 3/2 full suit. I use a SS BP, Hog 23# wing, and steel HP120. I don't need any additional ballast. The 23 # wing is plenty of lift.
It sounds like you may have a misunderstanding about double bladder wings. The second bladder does not provide extra lift. The wing's outer shell determines the maximum size when fully inflated. That means the shell size limits the maximum lift. The second bladder just provides redundant lift capability in case the main bladder totally fails. A 60# will give 60# of lift whether it's a single bladder or a double bladder. If you fully inflate the main bladder then try to inflate the second bladder, one of the OPV's (over pressurization valve) on one or both of the bladders will pop and you will just be pushing air right through and out of the bladder.
---------- Post added December 23rd, 2015 at 02:29 PM ----------
Ps. If you're always going to be diving warm water and a steel 120, you might really consider an aluminum BP or the Dive Rite XT Lite SS BP. You will very likely be over weighted if you dive with a regular SS BP and steel 120 in a shorty or just swim trunks. Especially if you happen to dive in fresh water.
It sounds like you may have a misunderstanding about double bladder wings. The second bladder does not provide extra lift. The wing's outer shell determines the maximum size when fully inflated. That means the shell size limits the maximum lift. The second bladder just provides redundant lift capability in case the main bladder totally fails. A 60# will give 60# of lift whether it's a single bladder or a double bladder. If you fully inflate the main bladder then try to inflate the second bladder, one of the OPV's (over pressurization valve) on one or both of the bladders will pop and you will just be pushing air right through and out of the bladder.
---------- Post added December 23rd, 2015 at 02:29 PM ----------
Ps. If you're always going to be diving warm water and a steel 120, you might really consider an aluminum BP or the Dive Rite XT Lite SS BP. You will very likely be over weighted if you dive with a regular SS BP and steel 120 in a shorty or just swim trunks. Especially if you happen to dive in fresh water.
cool_hardware52
Contributor
USMC,
Start with your "ballast budget" That will be largely a function of your exposure suit and cylinders. Unless you are er, uh, well "quite personally buoyant" your suit and the cylinders will determine if you need the ballast a SS plate provides or if you should consider a lightweight plate.
My guess is in warm water and negative steel tanks you may want to consider a Lightweight plate. Even with a light weight plate (~2 lbs negative with a harness) and regulator and typical steel tank that is ~-2 empty you may already be overweighted with thin exposure protection.
The solution to being over weighted is *not* a larger wing. The solution is to add exposure suit or switch to a less negative cylinder.
Redundant bladder single wings are a pretty rare animal. In warm water the diver should not ever be very negative, with the right gear choices and in cold water it's pretty easy to rig some of your ballast as ditchable. That solves your concerns about having to swim up a lot of ballast.
I'd be happy to make a specific recommendation. I can be reached most week days 9-5 ish California Time @ 626-799-5074
Tobin
runsongas
Contributor
carrying a lift bag or large smb is another option versus a double bladder wing.
Article sent. Once you read it feel free to ask me any questions. I'll be limited in availability on Christmas eve and Christmas Day but will be around all weekend after (including Sunday!) and evenings next week to respond to emails or take a phone call at the number in my signature line.
Thanks for your interest and your service.
Thanks for your interest and your service.
Thanks for all the advice.
Stuartv:
The double bladder isn't for more lift. It's because I dive wet. Having a SS plate and steel tank and such, if my main bladder were to fail I could connect the low pressure hose to the secondary (I'd leave it disconnected to prevent WTF suprises with runaway secondary inflators). People that dive dry can think of their suit as something that can provide lift in an emergency. Either way, I wouldn't dive too overweighted so that if a single bladder were to fail I'd have to swim up no more than 15 pounds negative from buoyant. It'll suck, but it's doable.
Tobin:
Great advice. I actually am a little larger than I used to be
. I would dive with 24 pounds of weight when wearing a XL bcd jacket and al80. I'm praying that the switch to a bpw will save me some headaches. This was my plan: I need to find out how much lead I need using only my wetsuit and basic snorkel gear to make myself neutral. This is what I'll wear as a weight belt. The bpw gear itself will be negative from the SS plate, regs, and hp120 tank. Assuming my math is ok, it's about 12 pounds of negative buoyancy for just the gear with an empty wing and tank. Since I'm neutral at 15 feet, I have to assume my neoprene (3/2 mm)is providing no lift at the bottom of a deep dive and I'll have to consider those 3-4 pounds of lift missing as additional weight to the 12 pounds negative from gear.
Unfortunately, those estimations are for an empty tank as that sucker can be almost 20 pounds negative at the start of the dive. If something were to go wrong early, then I'd have to ditch my personal belt or risk not being able to swim up. I'm guesstimating (gotta go dunk myself) that my buoyancy weight for snorkel gear would be about 15 pounds. If that's the case then I'd still be around the same 15 pounds negative (20 lbs full tank plus plate and such - 15 pounds belt I ditched) that I am at the end of a dive. Easy for a small wing, and easy to swim up if the small wing fails. Is this right? Is there a better way?
Stuartv:
The double bladder isn't for more lift. It's because I dive wet. Having a SS plate and steel tank and such, if my main bladder were to fail I could connect the low pressure hose to the secondary (I'd leave it disconnected to prevent WTF suprises with runaway secondary inflators). People that dive dry can think of their suit as something that can provide lift in an emergency. Either way, I wouldn't dive too overweighted so that if a single bladder were to fail I'd have to swim up no more than 15 pounds negative from buoyant. It'll suck, but it's doable.
Tobin:
Great advice. I actually am a little larger than I used to be
. I would dive with 24 pounds of weight when wearing a XL bcd jacket and al80. I'm praying that the switch to a bpw will save me some headaches. This was my plan: I need to find out how much lead I need using only my wetsuit and basic snorkel gear to make myself neutral. This is what I'll wear as a weight belt. The bpw gear itself will be negative from the SS plate, regs, and hp120 tank. Assuming my math is ok, it's about 12 pounds of negative buoyancy for just the gear with an empty wing and tank. Since I'm neutral at 15 feet, I have to assume my neoprene (3/2 mm)is providing no lift at the bottom of a deep dive and I'll have to consider those 3-4 pounds of lift missing as additional weight to the 12 pounds negative from gear. Unfortunately, those estimations are for an empty tank as that sucker can be almost 20 pounds negative at the start of the dive. If something were to go wrong early, then I'd have to ditch my personal belt or risk not being able to swim up. I'm guesstimating (gotta go dunk myself) that my buoyancy weight for snorkel gear would be about 15 pounds. If that's the case then I'd still be around the same 15 pounds negative (20 lbs full tank plus plate and such - 15 pounds belt I ditched) that I am at the end of a dive. Easy for a small wing, and easy to swim up if the small wing fails. Is this right? Is there a better way?
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