White Balance Question

[chocolate]

Read a lot about setting white balance from this forum when taking photos U/W. Just to make sure, as I'm leaving for Philippines next week and want to come back w/the best pictures I've ever taken, pls advise setting the W/B would solve the problem I'm having in the attached picture?

Thanks.

 

[Gilligan]

Using manual white balance for non-strobe pics will give you better results but you will still have to do some post editing in a software program. Getting too far away from your subject or zooming out on a subject that is already too far away will not be solved with manual white balance.
Slower shutter speeds are necessary as well as larger lens openings (lower F stop numbers). Try and stay at 1/80 and no slower for moving subjects. Depending on the water clarity and ambient light I use between F2.8 and F4.5
An example of manual white balance is here.

 

[SeaYoda]

I tried to play with one of your pictures in PhotoShop. Attached is what I got - not knowing what your actual subject looked like I tried to add some red and take out some blue and green. I see some "hot spots" of red in the final correction I made, did you try white balance on this shot already? Just asking because I get those spots some times too on my white balanced shots.

 

[chocolate]

Gilligan, I guess all those settings you recommended are w/o flash (internal), right? And would flash affect any of the settings you recommended.

Actually, are we suppose to use flash when photographing U/W?


SeaYoda, wow colour on the picture becomes a lot brighter. And no, I used the default W/B when shooting those photos.

 

[SeaYoda]

...Actually, are we suppose to use flash when photographing U/W?

I don't think you can make a rule like that on something as creative as taking pictures - just depends on what you want the finished product to look like - sometimes flash gets you what you want and some times just plain old blue and white might be what you're looking for. Using a flash takes practice to master without getting backscatter and results that are less that optimal. I look at everyones pics and see what they did and go play - with digital the learning curve is much faster.

...SeaYoda, wow colour on the picture becomes a lot brighter...

Does that look anything like it did in real life?

 

[Gilligan]

chocolate,
The settings I gave you are w/o using the flash. The internal flash is good to about 2 feet, maybe 3, and that's it. Auto WB is good for the flash. The Manual WB is for the no-flash pics.
If you use Manual WB on the flash pics they will be messed up because you calibrated the WB for no-flash.
You could calibrate the WB for the flash but then you need 2 calibrations, 1 for the flash and 1 without. No need for that as the Auto WB is good with the flash.
Bottom line is you have to have the camera on Manual so you can set the F stops and shutter speeds yourself. That requires you to be able to toggle back and forth between them and the WB as the need arises. Sounds like a pain but it is the best way to get quality pics underwater. The Auto mode is for land use and does not compensate for water density. I am a firm believer in knowing your camera so as to be able to work all those housing controls quickly and efficiently so as to be able to capture the moment. Even then a critter will sometimes present itself and leave before you can make the necessary settings changes.
PS: Also try using the shutter half way down to focus method instead of full time auto focus. I think you will find it works better underwater. For example, If a fish was in a certain area moving around you can focus on the spot by pressing the shutter half way down and holding it there. As soon as the fish appears back in the same target zone finish pressing the shutter down to take the photo.