Which strobe to pick?

[maractwin]

I've bought Inon equipment from Marine Camera www.marinecamera.com in San Diego and been happy with them.

I started with a cheaper set of arms, but found that they couldn't support the weight of the strobe while out of the water, so eventually upgraded to ULCS arms. I've had no problems with these; they are very easy to position. And with the quick-release handle, I can separate the arm from the camera for hand-held strobe work when I want to.

-Mark

 

[roswin]

[www.uwdigitalcamera.com
Yuzo Kanda the great: great service (I got my PT-015, WAL 100, Inon D-180 in one week), great prices and very good suggestions.
:10:

 

[dbh]

I have bought my last 2 systems from Ryan at:

Reef Photo & Video

Great prices, service and very knowledgeable.


HTH,
Dave

 

[jaz gill]

Have you considered Ikelite strobe, either the 50 or 125 would work very well with your camera setup.
regards
Jaz

 

[scubanimal]

I use a Light&Motion Housing which has a psuedo TTL ( through the lens light adjustment setting).

Pros: Robust (alum housing) , easy to use, easy to adjust light setting without having to reach out and touch the strobe, Uses Nikonos wetlink sync cords verses fiber-optic, I can turn my internal flash off, thus allowing more shots per dive day before having to open the unit; allows use of non-DX versions of Sea&Sea strobes and finally flexibility in which/whose strobes I use. I've had excellent service with L&M.

Cons: Pricey, L&M does not come cheap. Housing is unit specific and can not be modified for my 'next' camera. A bit heavy after a long dive. Uses camera LCD for viewing.

The 5050 is a really good dive camera, with many viable housings and set-ups available. Based on the type of diving you do, frequency of diving and the environment should help you decide what housing and subsequently what strobes to use.

For me, since I was upgrading my camera and housing when I got mine, not having to buy new strobes more than paid for the extra cost of the housing.

My $0.02