Combo works well but you have to get used to it. The autofocus works much better with the wide angle adapter than without (even if you zoom the wide angle towards tele). The autofocus can get fooled by particulates and generally does better with objects that tend to fill much of the image (duh).
Photos need post processing (Adobe Photoshop or Corel Photo-Paint).
I love the ability to program the camera to just keep the display screen on during the entire dive. [And to keep it on a high intensity so it doesn't get washed out...] That way, there's little set up delay (with the damned thing going to sleep) so you miss less. [A real beauty of working with a digital camera underwater is that it's much easier to compose using the display instead of the viewfinder.] That, of course, means the camera eats its batteries in maybe 15 minutes (or 10 or less depending...). Two tricks.
One obvious: use rechargeable NiMH batteries. Not NiCad. Not Alkaline. Not Alkaline-super duty. Second, you can stick a supplementary battery pack inside the Ikelite case (Yah! Hooray!). I stuck a 29.95 USD rechargeable battery pack (NiMH rechargeable) inside and connected it to the camera and it had a few more amp hours of capacity than the 4 NiMH AAs inside the camera so I was able to get 30 to 40 minutes of constant on performance.
If you want to see some of my pix, drop me email at Thomas_M_Austin@msn.com and I'll send you a few.
I've done a lot of very good photography in my life but just started with underwater photog so I may be different from you but it took me at least 4 dives before I got down the process, began to understand the issues, got a feel where I could really make this work.
All that said, I haven't tried any supplementary light yet (maybe that's why I need to post process to fix color balance even though I use the Ikelite orange filter). [Well, I tried an underwater movie light but didn't spend enough time to tune it in so that dive doesn't count.]
Enjoy!
