What to look for on used tank?

[can]

Looking to buy a used aluminum 80. Aside from obvious damage is there anything I should be looking for? Anything I should stay away from?
How often does the hydro need to be done?
Thanks for any advise
Craig

 

[dannobee]

The quick and dirty method is to look for a current hydro and NOT E-6498 on the neck. If has a 6498, steer clear. It's not that the tanks are unsafe, but shops might be reluctant to fill them because of sustained load cracking of some E6498 tanks. Tanks manufactured after 1988 are "safe." Look for an original hydro date after 88.

If the tank is empty, take the valve off and look inside with a small flashlight or small white christmas lights through the neck to look for any obvious corrosion.

Hydros need to performed every 5 years. VIP's need to be performed yearly.

 

[Scared Silly]

If buying locally the simplest thing to do is as described above. But let me add a couple. Look at not only original hydro but also the last. If the last hydro is more than 5 years ago you are looking at $20-$40 more to make it current. So deduct that from the price. Also when was the last visual inspection? If more than a year old subtract $10-$15 or so. My rec would be not to buy any cylinder that the seller does not give a guarantee of your money back if it does not pass.

 

[can]

Thank you both for the info. Armed with this info I can make a better decision.
Thanks again
Craig

 

[Doc Harry]

You should also stay away from Aluminum tanks manufactured before 1990, since they require an annual eddy current evaluation as well as an annual visual inspection. There is nothing wrong with these tanks, they just require additional expenses every year.

 

[herman]

I will not pay more than $30-40 for a used 80 and then only if it's got several years on it's current hydro. Here is my math reason. A new AL-80 is in the $150 range, it comes with a current hydro,vip and most include an airfill. The local shops here usually will throw in a 10 free air fill card. Fills are $5.
So $150-40 (hyrdo)-15(vis)-55 (11 air fills)= $45.
Why would I want to buy a used tank for more than $30 or so, It's going to cost me more in the end than if I buy a new one. Come to think of it, the scrap value of an AL-80 is in the $30 range, take that away from the new tank price and I'm down to $15.
I have and will buy used tanks, just most people want a lot more than they are really worth.

 

[spectrum]

Some shops are refusing to service any aluminum cylinder when it hits 20 years old. This is regardless of brand, alloy or any other valid technical reason. Local practice may vary but lacking a cryistal ball for future practices I would consider 20 years to be the useful life when making an offer.

Pete

 

[mike_s]

I will not pay more than $30-40 for a used 80 and then only if it's got several years on it's current hydro. Here is my math reason. A new AL-80 is in the $150 range, it comes with a current hydro,vip and most include an airfill. The local shops here usually will throw in a 10 free air fill card. Fills are $5.
So $150-40 (hyrdo)-15(vis)-55 (11 air fills)= $45.
Why would I want to buy a used tank for more than $30 or so, It's going to cost me more in the end than if I buy a new one. Come to think of it, the scrap value of an AL-80 is in the $30 range, take that away from the new tank price and I'm down to $15.
I have and will buy used tanks, just most people want a lot more than they are really worth.

Good analogy, however I end up with different math, but purely because of the different market that I live in....

I can get a hydro for $12 bucks and a vis at the hhydro facility for $5 bucks. At the LDS it's $10 bucks.

We don't get a 10-free-fill card with a new tank either at any of our shop, so can't count that in cost savings.

One of our shops sells AL80's for the overpriced amount of $199, the other for $170, another I doubt even has any in stock, and the 4th doesn't sell AL80 cylinders, only steels (as AL80 sales aren't worth the hassle for him.).

So getting a used tank here where I live for $50 to $85 isn't a bad deal.


But it all has to do with comparison shopping and math like you pointed out.

 

[divenutny]

If Aluminum created prior to 1990, you need to do some research. There are several batches that the DOT issued a warning about. Please see the DOT warning. Some tanks prior to 1990 ( made by Catalina) are not listed in the warning, however, your LDS may still refuse to touch them. My LDS will continue to vis and eddy test, the Hydro shop will not. I suspect they are refusing to buy the eddy tester. Apparently, after the warning was issued, DOT is requiring the hydro shop to eddy test these tanks.

The tank is one issue, the valve is another. I still use steel tanks made in 1956, so tanks & valves should last a long time. Should the valve fail, another $50 or so to replace. The valves on my steels can not be replaced.

Buyer beware. Many people are dumping their pre 1990 aluminum tanks on unsuspecting folks. Get the tank codes and talk to your shop before buying. On the other hand, I have bought several used tanks with no issues. If there is no air in the tank, that is a warning flag for me. THe tank needs to have some pressure to prevent becoming contaminated.

Happy Shopping - Tom

 

[pescador775]

If the tank has been painted the compressor monkey might have a trust problem. Many moons ago, a tank which had been painted and oven dried exploded.

Suggest you not buy a tank which has pits or powder flaking off in the valve area. This problem often occurs with tanks which have seen a lot of miles riding in a tank rack (boat).

As mentioned, any Al tank mfgt prior to 1990 except Catalina.

Pits, dents or gouges a no-no. Remove old stickers and wraps

Groddy interior