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No matter the topside temp, I'm always using a wool base layer if I'm diving dry. Wool is the material which best retains warmth when wet. Warm-ish water and a neo DS means not much more than the base layer, a shell suit and/or cooler water means I put on a Thinsulate undersuit as well.You really need a material that retains warmth when wet.
...to put it mildly.Down doesn't insulate well when wet.