What adapter/cables do I need for a Canon 6D with a nauticam or ikelite housing?

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ChristineAlbanese

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So I'm pretty ignorant about how strobes work with a housing... If someone can help shed some light, I would be incredibly grateful.

I have never used an UW housing before, I am slowly gathering equipment so that can take photos with my SLR setup but I am a little confused as to what I would need to get two strobes working with my setup.

I currently own a canon 6D. This camera does not have a built-in pop-up flash. I am undecided between getting an ikelite housing or a nauticam housing. If money was a non-issue then the choice would be obvious, so I'm waiting a little to see how my funds go...

I am looking into getting two ikelite DS160 strobes since I have heard nothing but good things about them (but if anyone has other recommendations, I'm all ears). From what I understand, if I were to go with an Ikelite housing, there are already the necessary connectors built in it... For the Nauticam, there aren't. So here's my question:

-What connectors/cables, arms, ball joints etc would I need for an Ikelite housing?
-Alternatively, what connectors/cables, arms and ball joints would I need for a Nauticam housing?

Thanks for all your help!
 
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No built in flash rules out fiberobtic strobes so you'll be looking at regular electric ones fired through the hotshoe on the camera. This means youll need the housing to have the connector. Youll need the strobes to be compatible with the housing if you want to use ttl or youll have to controll them manually..
 
Here's the Ikelite web page for the housing your camera needs: Underwater Housing for Canon EOS 6D

Which lens do you have? The specific port you need depends upon the lens you will be using and the type of photography you will be doing. Macro (close up) shooting would require a flat port, whilst extreme wide angle photography would require a dome port. This also influences your choice of strobe arms.

If you want to use two strobes with the housing you would need the 4103.52 dual sync cord for TTL with Ikelite strobes. They offer dual synch cables for Sea & Sea strobes, however these are manual control only.

You may want to consider a strobe combination of the DS 160 and DS 51. This could save money, especially if you do not want to do extreme wide angle work. Or even two DS-51's if all you want to do is macro shooting. The DS 51's are capable strobes in their own right.
 
Well, if you get the Nauticam housing, you can use Nauticam's LED fiber trigger. Then you can use any strobes and never worry about sync cord failures again. That opens up both S&S and Inon strobes as well.

Bill
 
Thanks for everyone's input on this subject! I've decided to stick with ikelite as it's the most affordable route...

Gert7to3, I have both dome and flat port for my 100mm macro and my 17-40 wide - I opted to buy two DS160 strobes off someone on these forums. I also have a dual sync TTL cable, 2 sets of arms and ball mounts on the way as well.... I think this pretty much complete it unless you guys have other suggestions?

Thanks again folks, you've been very helpful


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Do you have the glass or the acrylic dome port for the 17-40?
Zooming with the 17-40 and acrylic port might give you a disappointment with regards to edge sharpness..
 
No no, I read up a lot on it and opted for the slightly more expensive glass modular ports. So I've got the glass 8"dome and the glass flat port along with the necessary port extensions.

Just a question a little unrelated... I've been seeing photos from people using full frame cameras with the tokina 10-17 fisheye which is a lens optimized for APS-C size sensors. I can't imagine the 10mm end being any use on a FF sensor. Anyone have any experience with this setup?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
If the photos is good, it has to work??
Just the problem that crop lenses wont FIT on canon fullframes?
 
The lens will fit the camera body fine.

I have heard of people with FX cameras using the 10-17 NH (No hood) at 17mm with success, but I think I would probably go with a FX lens.
 

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