Prop Joe
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Wet lenses for a c5050
- Thread starter scuba spark
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VERY well summed up Nemrod.
The bayonet twist wet mount 165 Inon is "affordable" at $369 at reefphoto.
Yes the large protruding dome is sensitive to flares from my strobe as I'm finding out. Just have to keep the strobe pulled back a bit behind the camera body/housing.
Couple examples. Seattle Puget Sound filthy water. I can shoot 1/4" - 1/2" away from critters with the 165 fish eye lens (less water between lens and critter = less crap and backscatter). These starfish sucker feet, well heck my lens got attacked by the racing fast star fish and he started climbing UP my lens. Yet I still captured 6-8" of starfish arm with the lens only 1/2" away..
Ugly photo shown for my lessons learned. I've only shot with this lens for 2 dives, see my sig line for the rig, I run a 5" and 8" ULCS arm system so can get the strobe far off to the side, I just have to keep the strobe pulled back behind the camera body, and in this fish shot case, aim the strobe a bit further back behind the fish for only using the edge of the stobe flash to minimize the backscatter........but heck, you learn by doing things wet, not reading about it in a book on the couch......or surfing ScubaBoard.
Tips like this is what makes your learning curve less steep by other peoples mistakes.
cheers.
The bayonet twist wet mount 165 Inon is "affordable" at $369 at reefphoto.
Yes the large protruding dome is sensitive to flares from my strobe as I'm finding out. Just have to keep the strobe pulled back a bit behind the camera body/housing.
Couple examples. Seattle Puget Sound filthy water. I can shoot 1/4" - 1/2" away from critters with the 165 fish eye lens (less water between lens and critter = less crap and backscatter). These starfish sucker feet, well heck my lens got attacked by the racing fast star fish and he started climbing UP my lens. Yet I still captured 6-8" of starfish arm with the lens only 1/2" away..
Ugly photo shown for my lessons learned. I've only shot with this lens for 2 dives, see my sig line for the rig, I run a 5" and 8" ULCS arm system so can get the strobe far off to the side, I just have to keep the strobe pulled back behind the camera body, and in this fish shot case, aim the strobe a bit further back behind the fish for only using the edge of the stobe flash to minimize the backscatter........but heck, you learn by doing things wet, not reading about it in a book on the couch......or surfing ScubaBoard.
Tips like this is what makes your learning curve less steep by other peoples mistakes.
cheers.
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