Vacations in Puerto Rico on a budget

[KP3S]

Camping & Diving on a budget

Puerto Rico abounds in remote sandy beaches, lush tropical forests, and mountain lakesides that make for fine camping.

Although it has been technically illegal to camp on beaches (except in designated areas) for the last decade, it is commonly done in off-the-beaten path coastal areas, especially in Guánica, Isabela, Fajardo, and the offshore islands of Vieques and Culebra.

Also, there are more than enough campgrounds available in coastal areas, as well as in the mountains and local state forests and nature reserves.

Some of the nicest campgrounds, as well as the best equipped and safest, are those run by the government Compañia de Parques Nacionales (Av. Fernández Juncos 1611, Santurce; tel. 1-787-622-5200).

Six of the eight campsites it operates are located on the coast -- at Luquillo, Fajardo, Vieques, Arroyo, Añasco, and Vega Baja. It also runs two fine campgrounds in the mountain town of Maricao and in Camuy's Cave Park.

Some of these are simple places where you erect your own tent, although they are outfitted with electricity and running water; some are simple cabins, sometimes with fireplaces. Showers and bathrooms are communal. To stay at a campsite costs between $15 and $25 per night per tent.

Many sites offer very basic cabins for rent. Each cabin is equipped with a full bathroom, a stove, a refrigerator, two beds, and a table and chairs. However, most of your cooking will probably be tastier if you do it outside at one of the on-site barbecues. In nearly all cases, you must provide your own sheets and towels.

The agency, the National Parks Company in English, also operates more upscale "vacation centers," which feature rustic cabins and more tourist-ready "villas," on par with many island inns.

State forests run by the Departamento de Recursos Naturales y Ambientales also allow camping with permits. Except for cabins at Monte Guilarte State Forest, which cost $20 per night, camping sites are available at $5 per person. For further information about permits, contact the DRNA at (Rte. 8838, Km 6.3, Sector El Cinco, Río Piedras; tel. 1-787-999-2200).

There are seven major on-island camping sites in the following state forests: Cambalache State Forest, near Barceloneta; Carite State Forest, near Patillas; Guajataca State Forest, near Quebradillas; Monte Guilarte State Forest, near Adjuntas; Susua State Forest, near Yauco; Río Abajo State Forest, near Arecibo; and our favorite, Toro Negro Forest Reserve, near Villaba, where you can camp in the shadow of Puerto Rico's highest peaks.

It's also possible to camp at either of two wildlife refuges, Isla de Mona Wildlife Refuge, lying some 50 miles (80km) off the west coast of Puerto Rico surrounded by the rough seas of Mona Passage, and at Lago Lucchetti Wildlife Refuge, a beautiful mountain reservoir between Yauco and Ponce.

Meanwhile, visitors can also camp at El Yunque National Forest (tel. 1-787-888-1810), which is under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Forest Service. There is no cost, but permits are required. They can be obtained in person at the Catalina Service Center (Rte. 191 Km 4.3) daily from 8am to 4:30pm and weekends at the Palo Colorado Visitor Center (Rte. 191 Km 11.9) on weekends from 9:30am to 4pm. It's primitive camping within the rainforest.


Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

 

[KP3S]

Scuba Diving
The continental shelf, which surrounds Puerto Rico on three sides, is responsible for an abundance of coral reefs, caves, sea walls, and trenches for scuba diving and snorkeling.

Open-water reefs off the southeastern coast near Humacao are visited by migrating whales and manatees. Many caves are located near Isabela on the west coast. A large canyon, off the island's south coast, is ideal for experienced open-water divers. Caves and the sea wall at La Parguera are also favorites. Vieques and Culebra islands have coral formations. Mona Island offers unspoiled reefs at depths averaging 80 feet (24m), with an amazing array of sealife. Uninhabited islands, such as Icacos, off the northeastern coast near Fajardo, are also popular with both snorkelers and divers.

These sites are now within reach because many of Puerto Rico's dive operators and resorts offer packages that include daily or twice-daily dives, scuba equipment, instruction, and excursions to Puerto Rico's popular attractions.

Introductory courses for beginners range are between $90 and $130, and two-tank dives for experienced divers run from $85 up to $150.

In San Juan, try Caribe Aquatic Adventures, Normandie Hotel San Juan, Calle 19 1062, Villa Nevarez (tel. 1-787-281-8858), or Ocean Sports (Av. Isla Verde 77; tel. 1-787-268-2329).

We recommend diving off the east, west or south coasts, however in the south there are not that many shore dive sites and most diving is done from boats.

In Aguadilla NW area, contact PR Technical Diving Center, SR. 107 Km 4.0, Aguadilla, PR 00603 (tel 1-787-997-3483) is one of the largest in Puerto Rico and is only 1 mile from 2 of the best shore dive sites in the area (Crashboat Beach and El Natural Reef).

In Rincón, there's Taíno Divers, Black Eagle Marina at Rincón (tel. 1-787-823-6429), which offers trips to the waters surrounding Desecheo island natural reserve.

The ocean wall in the southwest is famous, with visibility ranging from 100 to 120 feet (30-37m) and reefs filled with abundant sea life. Paradise Scuba Center, Hotel Casa Blanca Building, at La Parguera (tel. 1-787-899-7611), and Mona Aquatics, Calle José de Diego, Boquerón (tel. 1-787-851-2185), are two good operators in the area.

In Guánica, there's Sea Venture Dive Copamarina (tel. 1-787-821-0505, ext. 729), part of the Copamarina Beach Resort.

The Dive Center at the Wyndham Rio Mar Beach Resort (tel. 1-787-888-6000) is one of the largest in Puerto Rico also.

Elsewhere on the island, several other companies offer scuba and snorkeling instruction.

Snorkeling
Because of its overpopulation, the waters around San Juan aren't the most ideal for snorkeling. In fact, the entire north shore of Puerto Rico fronts the Atlantic, where the waters are often turbulent.

Yet there are some protected areas along the north coast that make for fine snorkeling, even in surf capitals like Rincón and Aguadilla. Many of the best surfing beaches in winter turn into a snorkeler's paradise in summer when the waves calm down.

The most ideal conditions for snorkeling in Puerto Rico are along the shores of the remote islands of Vieques and Culebra.

The best snorkeling on the main island is found near the town of Fajardo, to the east of San Juan and along the tranquil eastern coast and Aguadilla to the NW of San Juan.

The calm, glasslike quality of the clear Caribbean along the south shore is also ideal for snorkeling. The most developed tourist mecca here is the city of Ponce. Few rivers empty their muddy waters into the sea along the south coast, resulting in gin-clear waters offshore. You can snorkel off the coast without having to go on a boat trip. One good place is at Playa La Parguera, where you can rent snorkeling equipment from kiosks along the beach. This beach lies east of the town of Guánica, to the east of Ponce. Here tropical fish add to the brightness of the water, which is generally turquoise. The addition of mangrove cays in the area also makes La Parguera more alluring for snorkelers. Another good spot for snorkelers is Caja de Muertos off the coast of Ponce. Here a lagoon coral reef boasts a large number of fish species.

Even if you are staying in San Juan and want to go snorkeling, you are better off taking a day trip to Fajardo or Aguadilla, where you'll get a real Caribbean snorkeling experience, with tranquil, clear water and stunning reefs teaming with tropical fish. Several operators offer day trips (from 10am to 3:30pm) leaving from Fajardo marinas or Taino Divers in Rincón, but transportation to and from your San Juan hotel can also be arranged. Prices start at around $99 or less.