Uwatec SmartTrak download problems....solved!

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Thanks for the info. Just received my USB to infrared adapter for my Smart Com to talk to my PC's SmartTrak program. I was so frustrated I almost opened the manual. You saved me hours!
 
oK I went to the LDS played with the Z and really liked it so I bought it. I've been playing around with it and have pretty much dialed it in as far as what I could do with it before diving it. One question. The back light, I can't get it to light up. I turned on in the shop but that was by chance and not planned. Does it need to be in a spacific mode to work?

Dave
 
Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum. Came across it by searching the net for the downloading error logs message and here I am. Firstly a big thanks about turning off the firewall temporarily - it worked a treat!

Secondly someone was asking about the Smart Z. Well I've done over 70 dives on mine so I've used it a fair bit and I do like the Aladin. I had an Aladin sport a few years ago before moving onto the smart Z and I've never really regretted it.

My only moans about it (and things to consider before buying one) are:-

- Those blasted metal controls, they're not a problem before a dive but afterwards when you're back on the boat and the marshall is asking for your max depth and dive time it refuses to show you the log. I'm unsure whether this is because it's still a bit wet or I'd heard recently that it actuallly locks you out of using the log book post dive for a short period - reason unknown. Anyway if you hear anyone cursing on a passing diveboat it'll be me after a dive trying to get my stats.

- It's easy if you're not careful whilst your trying to access your logs post dive (see above!) to change your oxygen pecentage to say 100% at the press of a button. Now yes it's a silly mistake but it's something that can be missed just before you start diving and lets just say you can lose buddies afterwards as the beeping drives everyone nutty!

- Using the wireless sensor is aukward. For the sensor I have (I'm usure if different sensors get different results) you have to press your dive computer onto it rather than it just being near to the sensor. It's a small point I know but uploading a weeks worth of red sea diving takes a bit of time so be ready for this.

- Shame on the software provided you can't modify some of the details - such as oxygen percentage (see above) - it would be nice to be able to correct small details like this. That said although I've nothing to compare it against I think the free software is actually quite good and very detailed.

- Battery, is not user replaceable - so it has to go back to the manufacturers to get it replaced, this cost me £60 in my localish dive shop. Dunno how this cost compares but it seems a lot just for a bettery to me.

Gotta say though even with these points in mind I really do like the computer, and I look forward to many more years of diving on it, even if I hate the metal contacts. (My biggest moan by far)
 
oK I went to the LDS played with the Z and really liked it so I bought it. I've been playing around with it and have pretty much dialed it in as far as what I could do with it before diving it. One question. The back light, I can't get it to light up. I turned on in the shop but that was by chance and not planned. Does it need to be in a spacific mode to work?

Dave
Oh the backlight, I got mine working for the first time in the Red sea - I've only had it 2 years lol
You need to press quite hard on the housing above the screen where the metal contacts are, I think it only does it underwater which is fair enough to save you battery life.
 
Funny how this thread has activated again!! Anyway, couple of things I've noticed now that I've had the unit a couple of years....

It broke. Well, the first one did, for no apparent reaon, and right in the middle of a Red Sea liveaboard tip - very inconvenient. Scubapro replaced it right away for free, but I still lost all my data - thank goodness I had kept a manual log book too, backed up with lots of photos to add detail. The second unit seems to be OK - I'm going back to the Red Sea in September, on another liveaboard, but will be sure to take a spare computer along! And a spare SPG!! My watch (Citizen Hyper Aqualand) is a fair bottom timer / depth guage, and I can revert to table for the nitrox limits, so a little more kit to carry should see me OK.

Next, in the s/w, you can go and tweak all the settings you like, such as not resetting the O2 mix unless changed by hand.

In terms of not getting the logbook to display right after a dive, this is becasue of a 3 minute delay, if memory serves, in case you have to do a bounce dive for any reason (i.e. the device only sees you as 'at the serface' after a couple of minutes - I think 3, if memory serves). I've found it best to no worry about the logbook immediately, but to remember the last display - just time, max depth and air left - not too difficult.

the backlight works fine on the surface - just give a firm push on the casing above the middle button contact.

The HP transmitter is about the same size as the Suunto D9 transmitter - slightly larger. I also had issues on my Oceanic first stage - solved that by buying the Scubapro MK25 :D but you can / should be able to get around it by careful routing of your two (three wor dry suit) LP hoses - I did OK with the Oceanic eventually, although better with the swivel feature of the MK25, and increased 1st stage space.

HTH

Gary
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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